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Axle removal problem

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Afroclipse

15+ Year Contributor
898
1
Dec 22, 2006
Houston, Texas
I can't separate the lower control arm ball joint from the knuckle and its pissing me off, its stuck in there good i've tried this :beatentodeath: and this :beatentodeath:. I know someone knows a trick or two, oh just so you know besides beating it i tried removing the lower control arm from the frame but some dumb ass put the bolt in in backwards so i can't remove the large bolt because the trannys in the way. i tried the tie-end rod puller i just managed to rip the little boot open and spill it's guts not to mention bend my $9.99 autozone puller. some one help me please:sosad:
 
Hit the spindle where the tie rod goes into. This will always work if there is no rust and most of the time if there is rust. You just need to hit it hard enough. After a few good shots try to hit the tierod itself out by hitting the part where the bolt goes on. Dont hit this hard if you plan on keeping the tierod because it will mushroom. If this doesnt work then go get a pickle fork and put it between the tierod and spindle and hit it hard. i have a pickle fork for my air hammer it works good.
 
I don't understand how the tranny could be in the way of that bolt that holds the lower arm on, which way is it facing? the bolt should be pointing towards the front of the car.. then you don't even need to mess with the tie rod end.. if you're working on the right side try turning your steering wheel all the way left.
 
i beat the crap out of it from every angle, first with acurracy and a sense of purpose after a while it just turned to motor vehicle abuse but still the bastard wouldn't budge i even hit it underneath to see if it would pop out NOTHING. WD 40 everything SOB won't come out please help me before i get the shotgun:mad:
 
I don't understand how the tranny could be in the way of that bolt that holds the lower arm on, which way is it facing? the bolt should be pointing towards the front of the car.. then you don't even need to mess with the tie rod end.. if you're working on the right side try turning your steering wheel all the way left.

I'm working on the right side the car, i only turned it towards the right side. I removed the upper control arm but that didn't give me enough room to remove the axle completely so i decided to remove the lower control arms and tie-end rod, thats what i did with the driverside only difference is tie-rod came out as soon as i unbolted it. I'm removing a auto tranny so the lower part of the tranny hangs lower than the bolt, so if it was put in right i could have just slide it out but because its not it hits against tranny i even tried jacking the tranny up higher.
 
Heat, then PB blaster, let it sit for a couple hours, hit the spindle (like said above), then put the nut back on the tie rod threads and tap on the nut.

If PB blaster and heat doesnt work, you might have to torch it out.
 
no to sound retarded but when you say heat do you mean blow torch heat or cigarette lighter heat
 
LOT's of heat like MAPP gas torch. But first try using a tie rod separator pickle fork and big hammer (or a air chisel gun with a small pickle fork attachment) like you're supposed to for separating ball joints.
Note: Not sure on the auto's but on the MT you just unbolt the lower arms at the chassis and remove the fork bolt and the whole thing swings out far enougn to remove axels from tranny - you don't undo any ball joints, tie rod or otherwise.
 
Did you try unbolting the strut where it bolts to the steering knuckle and then pulling the steering knuckle down? That is how I do it on my 1g.
 
I've not had much luck with the hammer to knuckle release technique, though many swear by it. Maybe I'm just a wimp swinging the hammer.

This is is great tool if you can fit it in there:
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If you don't care about your boot, the pickle fork always works. Sometimes right away, sometimes after 5 minutes of hammer swinging.
 

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Note: Not sure on the auto's but on the MT you just unbolt the lower arms at the chassis and remove the fork bolt and the whole thing swings out far enougn to remove axels from tranny - you don't undo any ball joints, tie rod or otherwise.

Dude thats the one with the bolt facing the wrong way. today i turned the wheels all directions i beat it even more it just won't come out, so i soaked it in WD40 for a couple hours and i'll get back to it. I effed up my tie-end rod boot can i still use it or is it junk(never had had this problem before so i really don't know). I used the puller even bounced on it still nothing, I'm going to give it a few days rest you know kinda like GTA san andreas when you couldn't beat the little planes no matter what you did so you just gave up and didn't play it for a week or two.:mad:
 
I'm going to give it a few days rest you know kinda like GTA san andreas when you couldn't beat the little planes no matter what you did so you just gave up and didn't play it for a week or two.:mad:

Werd to that, nice analogy.
 
The strut is probably the easiest way to go, if you dont want to buy tools or break things. But buying tools is good, ya never know when you're gunna need them.
 
Take the entire side of that suspension to a press. Heat it and try pressing it out.

This is what I had to do when I replaced the back hubs on my '97 GSX.
No amount of heat and PB Blaster were going to do it. I pulled the knuckle out and pressed the axles out of the hubs.

Remember, when reassembling: anti-sieze is your true friend.
 
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