The 1G AWD cars have two rear wheel bearings per corner and one for the fronts. This paper is specifically for the rear bearings, though could easily adapted to the fronts.
Symptoms: Car had intermittent vibration/wobble sound coming from right rear of car which got louder during turns. Grabbing top of wheel and pull/pushing can feel obvious play, like lug nuts were not tightened.
Parts Needed (prices from JNZTuning*):
MB569972 Rear Wheel Bearing Outer ($11.96)
MB290175 Rear Wheel Bearing Inner ($11.39)
MB393807 Rear Seal ($13.82)
MB290428 Rear Axle Cover Inner ($2.70)
MB393803 Rear Axle Cover Outer ($1.71)
* Note that the bearing and seal prices I got locally thru NAPA and Parts America (Parts+) were much higher than the prices JNZ charges for OEM parts. Also, the Axle Covers are a dealer-only part so could not find them anywhere but a Mitsu parts retailer.
Tool Needed:
10, 12, 14 Box Wrenches or Sockets
21 and 27mm Sockets
Breaker bar
Prybar/Large Screwdriver
Tork Wrench that goes to 150ft/lbs
Hammer
Gear Puller (optional)
Outside/outer refers to the wheel-side of the assembly, inside/inner refers to the side facing the differential (e.g. underneath the car).
Please refer to the DriveTrain or Brake VFAQs for more information/pics of the brake/rear axle removals.
Steps:
1.) With car on the ground loosen lug nuts
2.) Jack up car and remove rear wheel(s)
3.) Remove bolts/nuts holding rear axle to axle hubs. You do not have to remove from the differential, just move to one side of your work area.
4.) Pull up emergency brake and crack loose the 27mm axle hub nut
5.) Disengage emergency brake and disconnect cable from rear caliper
6.) Remove rear caliper and zip tie out of way
7.) Remove brake pad assembly
8.) Remove rear disk. If stuck insert (2) M8 x 1.25 bolts in threaded holes in rotor and turn each ½ turn at a time until breaks loose from hub.
9.) Remove dust shield mounting bolts
10.) Tap axle shaft assembly out of rear axle trailing arm with hammer or equivalent. Note that the outer wheel bearing is pressed on the axle shaft with the inner and outer axle cover acting as spacers on the hub end. You can remove it with a gear puller and reinstall using a pipe of same outer diameter as the bearing. I decided to just take this piece to a local Auto Shop and in 10mins they did the work for me for $14
11.) Remove Rear seal from Inside of rear axle trailing arm using prybar
12.) From outside, use a large socket to punch out the inner wheel bearing towards the differential
13.) Clean out the housing thoroughly of all rust/dirt/grease
14.) Dab a bit of grease on the outside of the new inner wheel bearing and using the old bearing/large socket/1x1 piece of wood to apply even pressure whack with a hammer evenly until cannot go any farther into the housing. You do not want to damage the new bearing, so apply force evenly and not just to the inner or middle of the bearing.
15.) Install Rear seal using old seal flipped 180* as driving tool and whacking with a hammer until flush.
16.) Reinstall axle shaft into trailing arm, whack hub gently with hammer until correctly seated
17.) Reinstall Brake components (Rotor, Pads, E-Brake, Caliper) and rear wheel (lug nuts snug)
18.) Engage emergency brake and reinstall axle hub nut/washer. Tork to 120-150ft-lbs
19.) Spin rear wheels to make sure they spin freely with no binding (rear brakes will drag some and is normal)
20.) Reinstall rear axle(s) to axle cups and tork to 40ft-lbs.
21.) Lower car and tork lug nuts to 90ft-lbs
That's it you're done!
Symptoms: Car had intermittent vibration/wobble sound coming from right rear of car which got louder during turns. Grabbing top of wheel and pull/pushing can feel obvious play, like lug nuts were not tightened.
Parts Needed (prices from JNZTuning*):
MB569972 Rear Wheel Bearing Outer ($11.96)
MB290175 Rear Wheel Bearing Inner ($11.39)
MB393807 Rear Seal ($13.82)
MB290428 Rear Axle Cover Inner ($2.70)
MB393803 Rear Axle Cover Outer ($1.71)
* Note that the bearing and seal prices I got locally thru NAPA and Parts America (Parts+) were much higher than the prices JNZ charges for OEM parts. Also, the Axle Covers are a dealer-only part so could not find them anywhere but a Mitsu parts retailer.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Tool Needed:
10, 12, 14 Box Wrenches or Sockets
21 and 27mm Sockets
Breaker bar
Prybar/Large Screwdriver
Tork Wrench that goes to 150ft/lbs
Hammer
Gear Puller (optional)
Outside/outer refers to the wheel-side of the assembly, inside/inner refers to the side facing the differential (e.g. underneath the car).
Please refer to the DriveTrain or Brake VFAQs for more information/pics of the brake/rear axle removals.
Steps:
1.) With car on the ground loosen lug nuts
2.) Jack up car and remove rear wheel(s)
3.) Remove bolts/nuts holding rear axle to axle hubs. You do not have to remove from the differential, just move to one side of your work area.
4.) Pull up emergency brake and crack loose the 27mm axle hub nut
5.) Disengage emergency brake and disconnect cable from rear caliper
6.) Remove rear caliper and zip tie out of way
7.) Remove brake pad assembly
8.) Remove rear disk. If stuck insert (2) M8 x 1.25 bolts in threaded holes in rotor and turn each ½ turn at a time until breaks loose from hub.
9.) Remove dust shield mounting bolts
10.) Tap axle shaft assembly out of rear axle trailing arm with hammer or equivalent. Note that the outer wheel bearing is pressed on the axle shaft with the inner and outer axle cover acting as spacers on the hub end. You can remove it with a gear puller and reinstall using a pipe of same outer diameter as the bearing. I decided to just take this piece to a local Auto Shop and in 10mins they did the work for me for $14
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
11.) Remove Rear seal from Inside of rear axle trailing arm using prybar
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
12.) From outside, use a large socket to punch out the inner wheel bearing towards the differential
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
13.) Clean out the housing thoroughly of all rust/dirt/grease
14.) Dab a bit of grease on the outside of the new inner wheel bearing and using the old bearing/large socket/1x1 piece of wood to apply even pressure whack with a hammer evenly until cannot go any farther into the housing. You do not want to damage the new bearing, so apply force evenly and not just to the inner or middle of the bearing.
15.) Install Rear seal using old seal flipped 180* as driving tool and whacking with a hammer until flush.
16.) Reinstall axle shaft into trailing arm, whack hub gently with hammer until correctly seated
17.) Reinstall Brake components (Rotor, Pads, E-Brake, Caliper) and rear wheel (lug nuts snug)
18.) Engage emergency brake and reinstall axle hub nut/washer. Tork to 120-150ft-lbs
19.) Spin rear wheels to make sure they spin freely with no binding (rear brakes will drag some and is normal)
20.) Reinstall rear axle(s) to axle cups and tork to 40ft-lbs.
21.) Lower car and tork lug nuts to 90ft-lbs
That's it you're done!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
