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AWD good or bad for ¼-mile?

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flyinhawaiin

Probationary Member
12
0
Oct 13, 2004
Oshkosh, Wisconsin
So im a newbie and im looking at buying a tsi in the spring. Ive been talkin to people, i eventually want to make it run thirteens? Anyways ive heard some people saying that AWD drive is good for take offs but robs horsepower especially at the top end. Im just curious to hear what u owners think. What do u guys prfer? looking forward to reading the replies thanks for the help.
-Tooley-
 
i think it depends on how fast you want to do it if you want to be in the 12s.. DSM is clearly the way to go.

for cheaper you could just get RWD and be in the 10s a lot easier.

I guess it depends on how much you want to spend
 
I really appreciate all the responses im gettin, just from the support im recieving from the dsm community i would be honored to be part of it. everyone here is being very helpful. so there shouldnt be many problems if i dont dump in the clutch. and im thinking of going straight to a larger turbo kit during the summer would it be worth the money, or should i start off by gettin a boosst controller starting it off and gettin the rest of the system together first with the larger exhaust BOV's and all that other good stuff. all my friends are buying fast cars and are all about the amercan muscle and i just want to keep up. i already kick there assesin autocross but im lookin forward to puttin up a fight in the quarter. they have camaros mustangs and a trans am. any dvise would be greatly appreciated. once again i am greatful for all the help and am looking forward to reading the rest.
 
is there supposed to be a comma after exhaust, or did u just call something a exhaust blow off valve..?
 
Bjeezy01 said:
Just checked my facts, the drive train for a stock DSM looses 15%-20% total on the FWD, and 20-25% on RWD models, and 25-40% loss on AWD's. Every car is diffrent, and there is no one formula to solve/check with, but for all cars off all makes and models, this is the industry standards. Also keep in mind that a auto will have more loss then a manual.

RWD DSM? 25-40% drivetrain loss on AWDs?

NO

AWD 50% why I got into DSMs. Everything else has already been said, but just to recap

Yes, you'll break stuff if you constantly abuse the car with launches, the tranny will die. Then again, what other stock AWD can do that?
 
flyinhawaiin said:
I really appreciate all the responses im gettin, just from the support im recieving from the dsm community i would be honored to be part of it. everyone here is being very helpful. so there shouldnt be many problems if i dont dump in the clutch. and im thinking of going straight to a larger turbo kit during the summer would it be worth the money, or should i start off by gettin a boosst controller starting it off and gettin the rest of the system together first with the larger exhaust BOV's and all that other good stuff. all my friends are buying fast cars and are all about the amercan muscle and i just want to keep up. i already kick there assesin autocross but im lookin forward to puttin up a fight in the quarter. they have camaros mustangs and a trans am. any dvise would be greatly appreciated. once again i am greatful for all the help and am looking forward to reading the rest.
i ran mid 13s with a major boost leak (brake booster wouldn't hold anything over 5 pounds) and a crack im my exhaust manifold. on a stock motor minus balance shafts, air filter (25), 2.5 exhaust (100 for the dp, free catback had pipe laying around), upper and lower intercooler pipes and hks bov (350), some porting that i did myself on the turbo and o2 housing, and 2600 clutch (300). put 2 times that and hand them there ass. fixed the two problems and im hoping for 13.2 or better next time i go.

also start off with a front mount intercooler, fuel injectors, fuel pump, afc or something that will work. then go to the bigger turbo. but remember that your stock clutch won't hold it.
 
My96AWD said:
i ran mid 13s with a major boost leak (brake booster wouldn't hold anything over 5 pounds) and a crack im my exhaust manifold. on a stock motor minus balance shafts, air filter (25), 2.5 exhaust (100 for the dp, free catback had pipe laying around), upper and lower intercooler pipes and hks bov (350), some porting that i did myself on the turbo and o2 housing, and 2600 clutch (300). put 2 times that and hand them there ass. fixed the two problems and im hoping for 13.2 or better next time i go.

also start off with a front mount intercooler, fuel injectors, fuel pump, afc or something that will work. then go to the bigger turbo. but remember that your stock clutch won't hold it.
Was this on the 95? If so, pretty impressive time for a T-25, but I have to question your judgement on porting a T-25. :p
 
I also have owned both a 90gst, 90gsx and now a 90tsi/awd. Theres a reason the last two have been awd. Yes fwd can be a bit more fun as far as squealing the tires up until the middle of third gear, but when it comes down to it awd is alot better. Although if it wasn't for the awd I would proably own a diffrent car right now.
 
leakyfaucet said:
Was this on the 95? If so, pretty impressive time for a T-25, but I have to question your judgement on porting a T-25. :p
i forgot to add that its a 14b :shhh: and i have the low compression of a 1g motor to.
 
its raining here and i just got in from an awd drift fest in a mall parking lot.. talk about ass kicking fun :D

all wheel drive and no traction going sideways = :D
 
flyinhawaiin said:
I really appreciate all the responses im gettin, just from the support im recieving from the dsm community i would be honored to be part of it. everyone here is being very helpful. so there shouldnt be many problems if i dont dump in the clutch. and im thinking of going straight to a larger turbo kit during the summer would it be worth the money, or should i start off by gettin a boosst controller starting it off and gettin the rest of the system together first with the larger exhaust BOV's and all that other good stuff. all my friends are buying fast cars and are all about the amercan muscle and i just want to keep up. i already kick there assesin autocross but im lookin forward to puttin up a fight in the quarter. they have camaros mustangs and a trans am. any dvise would be greatly appreciated. once again i am greatful for all the help and am looking forward to reading the rest.


We help where we can, but this is info you can find by searching a little. Here's a few links to get you started:

www.vfaq.com

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/1gturbo/
 
MikeMara said:
i think it depends on how fast you want to do it if you want to be in the 12s.. DSM is clearly the way to go.

for cheaper you could just get RWD and be in the 10s a lot easier.

I guess it depends on how much you want to spend

All this knowledge coming from a guy that does not even have a DSM, let alone an awd!!!

Please do not listen to this guy, what he is saying is crazy, I have several friends with DSM's in the 10's or better,one in the 9's. For the money you can buy a nice $2500 dollar 1g awd, upgrade the turbo to a 50 trim,FP green,20g etc... Fuel pump,injectors,fmic,2gmanifold/o2 housing, afpr,big clutch,3"turboback exhaust,mbc,safc, and you are there.

I have a 94 lt1 z-28 and it runs high 14's even with an K&N intake and borla exhaust, even if you bough a high dollar newer ls1 z-28, the high cost of the car alone plus all the mods would be 5 times more money than a DSM to get it into the 10's.
 
BOBS90TURBO said:
All this knowledge coming from a guy that does not even have a DSM, let alone an awd!!!

Please do not listen to this guy, what he is saying is crazy, I have several friends with DSM's in the 10's or better,one in the 9's. For the money you can buy a nice $2500 dollar 1g awd, upgrade the turbo to a 50 trim,FP green,20g etc... Fuel pump,injectors,fmic,2gmanifold/o2 housing, afpr,big clutch,3"turboback exhaust,mbc,safc, and you are there.

I have a 94 lt1 z-28 and it runs high 14's even with an K&N intake and borla exhaust, even if you bough a high dollar newer ls1 z-28, the high cost of the car alone plus all the mods would be 5 times more money than a DSM to get it into the 10's.

Ok first of all, this topic is like a week old and been beatin out.

To respond to that, It will take a hell of a lot more then just those mods to pull a 10 in a DSM. I honostly don't think anyone is going to pull a 10 on a stock block and if they have.. they wont be for long. Also, the fact that you run a high 14 in an LT1 with light mods means you are a horrible driver.
 
Theres been 10's done on the stock block but he was asking about the difference between FWD and AWD for his 13's goals. He's not trying to buy a weekend track only 5.0 liter mustang to run 10's in.

Regarding AWD/FWD.
I currently own a 2g turbo DSM that is ridiculously reliable (No parts ever replaced), a beautiful and rare blue color, and brings a smile to my face whenever i drive it.
With that said,,,,, i'm selling it for AWD. OMG
 
Dieselboy said:
We help where we can, but this is info you can find by searching a little. Here's a few links to get you started:

www.vfaq.com

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/1gturbo/

Thank you so much for posting that.

He only wants to run in the 13's with a 1G AWD. I dont see what LT1's, LS1's, or Shep has to do with any of that. Sure he wants to beat some of those cars, but they all have different drivers and differetn mods, so what ever someone else ownes or has driven is irrelavent.

If you abuse the car it will break no matter how fast you are going or how much HP yo make. If you take care of it it will take care of you. Follow the upgrade path and you will gain some good HP and more importantly, knowledge.
 
to end this discussion, look at the best 1/4 times on this website and look at what drivetrain they have and make your decision. -Matt
 
Wow.. another AWD vs FWD thread :p

Having owned a FWD, RWD and AWD Sports Car.. I can hands down say I'll never get a FWD (sports car) again.

Nice to be able to run 1.7 60s on bald-ass all season radials :thumb:
 
I Once Again Appreciate All The Responses And I Thoght U Guys Were Done, Appernently Not But Continue Its Quite Interesting :thumb:
 
am sure I am wrong, but I thought going AWD was a loss of almost 20%


Remeber all of these AWD power loss things are just at launch. Once the car gets out of the hole and is at a point where the FWD would stop spining, it operates just like a FWD. In normall driving conditions all the power is going to the front wheels... the rear wheels only get power when it senses a difference in speed between the front and the back.

So once you are in a position where it wouldn't spin anymore... you are just lugging around the extra 200lbs.
Explaintion
 
VtecRex said:
Remeber all of these AWD power loss things are just at launch. Once the car gets out of the hole and is at a point where the FWD would stop spining, it operates just like a FWD. In normall driving conditions all the power is going to the front wheels... the rear wheels only get power when it senses a difference in speed between the front and the back.

So once you are in a position where it wouldn't spin anymore... you are just lugging around the extra 200lbs.
Explaintion


I read that I will have to disagree. They are talking about when Audi, not Mitsu, used the VC AS the center diff. We dont do that. We have a VC and a center diff. The VC only act like a posi for the center diff.
 
isnt there something in the rules about not posting if you dont know what in the #### you are talking about? ..i could have sworn i saw that somewhere.. seems to be the most often ignored standard this site has :rolleyes:
 
saw wave analog said:
isnt there something in the rules about not posting if you dont know what in the #### you are talking about? ..i could have sworn i saw that somewhere.. seems to be the most often ignored standard this site has :rolleyes:


I couldn't agree more. Instead we gotta keep the text out of our sigs or we'll get banned. :rolleyes:
 
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