auto tensioner installation/adjustment question

[Tongboy]

I just finished doing a timing belt job on my car and replacing the auto tensioner.

I am using a new tensioner so I figured i could go without making the tensioner tool since I can't find the metric die in town nor can I find metric bolt stock.

anyways as per the vfaq I used a 5/32 (.156 instead of .15) allen wrench instead of the drill bit to get the tension correct. I tightened everything down and released the auto tensioner and let it sit, when it was expanded out it was just enough to get a 3/16 (.1875) allen wrench in there and twist it.

looking at the old one I can see that the tensioner has room to expand over twice the distance and I assume as the belt stretches that thats exactly what the auto tensioner does.

anyways is this too far out of spec? do I need to get the tool and bring it back to spec? (.15-.18) or can I skate on it?

 

[suicidal2af]

I just finished doing a timing belt job on my car and replacing the auto tensioner.

I am using a new tensioner so I figured i could go without making the tensioner tool since I can't find the metric die in town nor can I find metric bolt stock.

anyways as per the vfaq I used a 5/32 (.156 instead of .15) allen wrench instead of the drill bit to get the tension correct. I tightened everything down and released the auto tensioner and let it sit, when it was expanded out it was just enough to get a 3/16 (.1875) allen wrench in there and twist it.

looking at the old one I can see that the tensioner has room to expand over twice the distance and I assume as the belt stretches that thats exactly what the auto tensioner does.

anyways is this too far out of spec? do I need to get the tool and bring it back to spec? (.15-.18) or can I skate on it?

Personally, I'd keep redoing it over and over until you get it right. I ended up spending a good 3 or 4 hours getting it tensioned PERFECTLY. I bought the ALLTHREAD tool from SPX Miller, though...it really made things much easier. I adjusted the tensioner arm with the tool until I have the right gap, then I adjusted the tensioner pulley(tip: have a friend use a prybar and pry back on it until the tension is perfect, then torque that puppy down). Follow all steps, and recheck the gap. When I finally got it, the gap was spot-on 5/32. One step I wouldn't risk...screwing up tension is the difference between a job well done, and a chance to do some headwork for the first time.

I recommend buying the tool...it's 8.55 from SPX Miller.

 

[Strm Trpr]

.1875" is way too far out of spec.
Especially if you can twist the allen wrench, allen's are sized across the flats, so the hex diameter is even larger.
Get the right tools for the job, or source it out.
You'll save money in the long run, cuz valves hitting pistons isn't really that fun, or cheap to fix....
I have 3ft of M8x1.25 pitch all-thread..... I'll sell you some...

 

[Tongboy]

this is actually from having to do a new head when my mechanic screwed up the last job and it lasted 1500 miles

I went ahead and was able to get it back down to a tight 5/32 without using any special tools by loosening the tensioner just a bit and using an allen wrench to tighten the tensioner down to the 5/32 allen and tightened it all up. let it sit for a while and it didn't move.

spun that crank 12 times and nothing bad yet

battery is charging right now though so i'll know if its all good in a bit