Auto mount inserts.

[5150DSM]

Ok, I've searched all over this site, different vendor's sites and Google and have yet to find a clear answer. I'm looking for a motor mount insert kit for my 91 A/T... Prothane, Energy Suspension, whatever. The Prothane kit 13-1902 is all that comes up for 1G's but it specifically states that it's for M/T only. Can I make this kit work? Is there a part number for an A/T kit? I do know that Avid offers a solution but not only are they not in stock anywhere I can find, $300.00 is beyond my budget for a set of mounts.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm going to need something besides my 20+ year old, ripped to shit stockers and I'm sick of focking window weld. Thanks in advance guys.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Might be different on the 1g gen but I had an issue on this when installing them on my 2g but I had to order another one as the inserts was hitting the stock rubber, I cannot remember if it was the front or rear that was the issue but for me I had to order 2 of the same part numbers and it fits well now and im happy with it

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

Ditto.... Just got myself an auto as well and would like to know as well....

I would assume the driverside mount is the same regardless of 5speed or auto...
And I know for sure the front mount is different BUT its only where the bolt holes are drilled through the brackets...I'm thinking that the prothanes SHOULD be the same otherwise....

Same goes for the rear... But I have absolutely no clue on the tranny mount

 

[SloRice]

Prothane kit.....the sides and back fit. Front is different.....I bought the Bullfab front cross member to solve that problem.

 

[5150DSM]

Prothane kit.....the sides and back fit. Front is different.....I bought the Bullfab front cross member to solve that problem.

This might be the best solution. I know Paul has a good front cross-member solution. I had eventually planned to change over to a tube, maybe I'll just speed up the process. I would still like to know if there is an auto kit besides the Avids.

 

[m1nd64m3]

Get the urethane from mcmaster carr and fill them yourself. It's like $33 and you get enough for 2 mounts. I went from the inserts to filling them and it was much better, less vibration and no squeaking. Took a day for them to cure and they looked really good. If you are interested I can find the exact link to the stuff and how to do it.

 

[5150DSM]

Get the urethane from mcmaster carr and fill them yourself. It's like $33 and you get enough for 2 mounts. I went from the inserts to filling them and it was much better, less vibration and no squeaking. Took a day for them to cure and they looked really good. If you are interested I can find the exact link to the stuff and how to do it.

Yeah, I wouldn't mind the link. What makes the Mcmaster Carr urethane better than window weld, etc...?

 

[CrashGNX]

the full poly kits (not the pieces that just slip in the stock rubber mounts) for the M/T work for the front, rear and drivers side mounts, Im swapping to an auto right now and have both the manual and auto mounts but I havent got the engine and trans back in the car yet to find what combination im going to use and what will fit where. I'll post back when im 100% sure what does work. Still waiting on gaskets for the oil filter housing and oil pump housing to get here before I can put it all back in.

 

[donniekak]

The auto front mount is a larger diameter than the manual, none of the poly bushings work for it.

 

[m1nd64m3]

This stuff is far better than window weld. The window weld method has you either doing it in layers, which can cause the layers to seperate over time, or to just fill it in one shot, which I hear makes it take forever to cure.

This stuff is urethane, you can select your hardness, and it will cure in 24 hours and be good to go. If you do a good job it will look really good too.

But here is how i did it:

First get this stuff: McMaster-Carr Use the general purpose stuff towards the top of the page. I used the 60a hardness kind that is listed for $33.33, if you want a harder mount then go with the 94a. One will do both roll stop mounts.

Then remove your mounts and grab some cardboard and packing tape. Lay the mounts on their sides and trace them onto the cardboard to make 2 round circles, these will be what holds the urethane in the mount while it cures. Also cut out the center of the cardboard pieces, you want these to fit flush up against the side of the mount.

Take the packing tape and cover the cardboard circles in it. This will allow the cardboard to come free easily once the urethane has cured. Try to not bunch up the tape too much or have any imperfections because the surface of the urethane will look like the tape job you did on the cardboard circle.

Now take the mounts and drill a bunch of holes in the rubber. You want as much area as possible for the urethane to fill in. My mounts were already pretty torn up so I just used a big drill bit and made a bunch of big holes to where I had just enough of the original rubber left to keep the metal center in the right spot.

Now clean any rubber bits and shavings off so that you have a clean surface. Now duct tape the cardboard pieces to the sides of the mount. You want to make sure you seal it well because you don't want the urethane leaking out.

Lay the mounts on their sides so the cardboard is on the bottom. Make sure you lay down newspaper or something because this stuff can be messy. Now mix up the hardener and the urethane as per the directions on the package. Then start pouring it into the mounts. Fill them all the way up and then watch them, they will bubble as air is escaping and the level will go down, so fill them up as the level goes down, and then the urethane will start to set pretty quickly.

Wait 24 hours and then take off the tape and the cardboard bottoms. Any extra outside of the mount can be cut off so that it looks clean. Then re-install the mounts.

This may look like a lot of steps but the actual filling of the mounts takes 20 minutes or so between making the cardboard pieces and actually filling them up. With the 60a hardness they were much more solid than my previous inserts, and they vibrated way less. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

 

[5150DSM]

m1nd64m3...

That's an awesome little write up, I really appreciate you taking the time to post that up. I started checking out the McMaster-Carr site and Googled up casting urethane and found a ton of info. Seems like a viable alternative to poly kits, especially if you want to play around with durometer ratings and custom mounts. Thanks again for the info.

 

[CrashGNX]

I just took my auto trans mount (passenger side mount) apart and put my Poly bushing from my manual trans into it with no problems. I dont see anywhere that the front mount is different between the auto and manual trans since it mounts to the engine block in a 1g, Only differences I have found are the FWD vs AWD front mount is different.

look at my gallery for a pic of the parts breakdown of all the mounts

 

[LaserRS92]

I'm trying to find out if the mounts are different or the brackets on the engine side that are different? Looking to see if Prothanes installed in M/T mounts can still be used for my auto dsm.

 

[CrashGNX]

Ok, here is the breakdown on auto vs manual mounts in a AWD 1G. The poly kits are for a manual but the difference is the front and rear mounts. In a auto the front and rear mounts (body or frame side) are smaller diameter but you can swap to manual trans front and rear mounts, install the poly bushings in them and they bolt right in.

The trans and drivers side motor mounts are exactly the same diameter and poly inserts drop right in.