ECMlink Attempting to understand ECMlink

[Phantom DSM]

If your question of "Does it say 5*?" is for what link is displaying with the car warmed up and the timing ground box checked, it will always say 5* no matter what is happening in the engine. What needs to be checked is the actual timing with a light. As you mentioned, the 2gb CAS offers no adjustability, so if it is not reading right, you've got another issue (bad CAS, bad harmonic damper, something else).

True my bad brian, i meant turn off the key while link is streaming, mine goes to 5 btdc. But yes, ground timing and check for 5 btdc with the timing light as brian said. My sentences dont make sense sometimes, sorry for the confusion

 

[miliman13]

If your question of "Does it say 5*?" is for what link is displaying with the car warmed up and the timing ground box checked, it will always say 5* no matter what is happening in the engine. What needs to be checked is the actual timing with a light. As you mentioned, the 2gb CAS offers no adjustability, so if it is not reading right, you've got another issue (bad CAS, bad harmonic damper, something else).

Break, break break. You guys must of missed it?
i mentioned what i have in total, i made a list so we would be on the same page. i have a 2gB BODY, but my LONGBLOCK is 1G/ 6 BOLT, i do in fact have an adjustable CAS. ...

Even my AVATAR gives it away, see the stenciling DSM6B

 

[snowborder714]

If you have an adjustable CAS, then it needs to be adjusted properly. I was more just addressing the previous post.

 

[miliman13]

theres no issue setting my timing with the timing light. i was just asking what dsmlink should show on live-stream in relation to ignition timing already set at 5 BTDC.

ill check the box , next time i get in the car.

Quick Question Snow, since i have a 1G engine but a 2G ECU, should i download a base map for a 1G or 2G from ECMLINK ?

 

[snowborder714]

With the timing ground box checked, you should see a static 5* of timing.
With the timing ground box not checked, you should see it cycle above from maybe 7-13* or so. I can't give a solid answer, but you should get the idea.

Keep the factory 2g maps as they're more safe than the 1g maps.

 

[jed344]

.25 air flow per rev might not be quite right sense you have cams in your car i have found aftermarket cams you quite often run less vac at idle there for your air flow per rev is off at idle. As well i have spent many hours behind the laptop on different dsm's and usually cannot get the idle perfect and the air flow per rev right at .25 usually is some were between .22-.27ish by the time i get one idling were very well.

 

[miliman13]

well seeing as how Thomas Dorris of ECMtuning recommends
{Engine Management: Advanced Tuning and Designing and Tuning High-Performance Fuel Injection Systems
by Greg Banish}
I went ahead and ordered the books, i did spend some time in the past between classes at Barn n Nobles skimming through these books, so at least i know the books provide decent info.

My though anything helps. also for anyone else who may find this thread i found a video that made understanding "fuel-Trim" easier to understand.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzsOY_AhgY4]Understanding Fuel Trim - YouTube[/ame]

And one last thing, how do i go about editing the name/ title of this thread ?

* Update- still haven't gotten in car. Soon

 

[snowborder714]

Thread Tools > Edit thread - from the menu bar right at the top of the thread.

 

[miliman13]

So im back, im in the car, and checking the "ground timing " box, is not making any change that im aware off.

so hears a log,

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Also i found a base tune, that was set on my car a year ago, and it ran fine with it, hears the screen shot.

also, i has the car at stoich the last time i was here, but i uploaded the 2g-map from ecmlink, now the car is bouncing up-and-down it wont stay one, it cant decide weather its rich or lean.

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[snowborder714]

When you check the "Ground timing connector to ECU" box, you should hear an audible change in the idle sound, as well as notice that the Timing value should display a static 5* in link. At this point though, I think it's not the most important of your issues.

Your front o2 is still acting up and not cycling because you're in open loop. Have you tried resetting fuel trims (ECU > Reset fuel trims) and see if you can get it cycling again? If not, have you considered trying a new sensor?

 

[miliman13]

Yes, i re-set everything again.
using a global of -40%, and a deadtime of 315.
and also slowly lowering the sliders i was more or less able to maintain "stoich" up to 2500 rpms. still, no change in timing display. and my adjustments on the sliders aren't changing my AirperRev or my CombinedFT

And rpms were stable for the most part this time. but dropped a few times.

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SO i may be very wrong, but so far this is how my mind is making sence of the MAF sliders, how wrong am i ?

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[snowborder714]

my adjustments on the sliders aren't changing my AirperRev or my CombinedFT

This is most likely due to the fact that you're not in closed loop. You need to focus on this and not getting idle numbers in check. That will come later after you get a properly working o2 sensor and the car in closed loop. Not sure how many time we can stress this.

Edit: Looks like you're finally in closed loop with a cycling front o2. Go back and watch the idle tuning video from ECMTuning and replicate the steps. Give the car a bit of time to adjust after you make changes and see where it settles.

 

[jery1234]

Has anybody noticed his load factor is sitting at 0.63-0.50 at idle in the last log?

If you open max timing map and track data log it's clearly visible . Should it be 0.30 at idle?

 

[miliman13]

Has anybody noticed his load factor is sitting at 0.63-0.50 at idle in the last log?

If you open max timing map and track data log it's clearly visible . Should it be 0.30 at idle?

hey your right, isnt that suppose to be .3 on idle ?

 

[gofer]

LoadFactor SHOULD be 0.3, correct. But, because AirflowPerRev is so inflated you can contribute that to the reason why LoadFactor is too... I think.

I can't believe I didn't notice this before but your idle switch isn't functioning (back to watching those videos ) so you need to select "enable idle switch operation" and "simulate idle switch from TPS" from the RPM/TPS tab.

I haven't tried tuning a car without a functioning or simulated idle switch so I'm not sure what the symptoms would be but, if the ECU doesn't think the idle switch is closed (no throttle) then it won't try to control idle speed which seems to be the case in your log.

 

[snowborder714]

your idle switch isn't functioning

My guess is he's using a 1g TPS on that N/T throttle body.

 

[miliman13]

My guess is he's using a 1g TPS on that N/T throttle body.

I do however have a 2G TPS i can swap out with, if that is something that helps.
And if it is a 1G TPS "which im not aware of " why wouldn't it work?

 

[gofer]

A 1g TPS only has 3 pins and a 2g TPS has 4 pins, the 4th one is the idle switch signal to the 2g ECU. Brian's the throttle body master but, in a nut shell, the 1g idle switch has a dedicated connector on the back of the TB (see picture below) which is also the throttle stop where as the 2g's idle switch is built into the TPS (4th pin).

The 1g idle switch in the picture below is in the top left corner, it's that gold thing.

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Don't worry about swapping to a 2g TPS (unless you've got OCD) since you can simulate the signal in ECMLink the way I describe a few posts back.

 

[miliman13]

ok, cool
So before we go on, i want to make sure i click or don't click the necessary check boxes that apply to me for idle tuning.

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I know i have to check the following : Invert CAS signal, Ground timing, enable idle switch, simulate idle from tps.

what other check boxes am i missing, and do the below apply ?

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[gofer]

Why are you grounding the timing connector? That's only done when you're setting base timing with a light.

In the bottom right hand corner of the ECMLink Live Settings menu you'll notice there's a circle with a "?" right in the middle of it. Every tab has its own help menu that explains EVERYTHING within that tab, it would behoove you to do some reading so you understand what and why you need to check (enable/disable) something rather than just us telling you yes or no.

If I tune someones car I tell them what I'm doing and why, it's up to them if they want to remember or not because some people don't care but if you're trying to do this yourself you need to understand the basics of it.

With that being said...

Lock comm in ECMLink mode will lock out any OBD reader from pulling codes off the car, which also includes SMOG stations from reading it. If they can't pull codes or see if your emissions checkers are passing you'll fail... IIRC though, Florida doesn't have emissions so you're good.

You're not running SD (Speed Density) because you're still on your stock MAS so that box being checked does absolutely nothing for you either. You can uncheck it.

The hot start enrichment feature generally isn't needed either, check that box if your engine idles lean when started after it's warmed up.​

 

[miliman13]

Why are you grounding the timing connector? That's only done when you're setting base timing with a light.-------------------------------------------

Lock comm in ECMLink mode will lock out any OBD reader from pulling codes off the car, which also includes SMOG stations from reading it. If they can't pull codes or see if your emissions checkers are passing you'll fail... IIRC though, Florida doesn't have emissions so you're good.

You're not running SD (Speed Density) because you're still on your stock MAS so that box being checked does absolutely nothing for you either. You can uncheck it.

The hot start enrichment feature generally isn't needed either, check that box if your engine idles lean when started after it's warmed up.​

I found those two pics above on Google, i was using them as reference sorry should of mentioned that, i haven't checked them.
Why check ground timing? - well because it has not worked. I already tried to get live data to correspond with ignition timing (timing light) but no change.

Again i have been reading, and i still am. Unfortunately there is not a
{0RDER OF OPERATIONS} written down , the information is out there but its spread out - and im simply attempting to make sense of it. with that being said, I thank you all for the patience.

 

[snowborder714]

Why check ground timing? - well because it has not worked. I already tried to get live data to correspond with ignition timing (timing light) but no change.

To clear this up (hopefully for the last time).

You only check that box when you need to set ignition timing using a timing light and adjusting your 1g CAS.

The box should not be checked at any other time.

How the process works:
1. Get the car up to operating temp
2. Check the ground timing box in link (you will hear an audible change in the car's idle sound)
3. Use light to check ignition timing - adjust 1g CAS as necessary to have it read 5* BTDC
4. Tighten down CAS hardware and check timing again to make sure it didn't move.
5. Uncheck timing box (you will hear an audible change in the car's idle sound)

With the box checked (only when setting timing) - a live stream via link will show a static timing value of 5*. This is not being read from anywhere, but instead just a static value that the ECU is expecting to see. Just ignore any timing reading in link while the box is checked. The only thing you need to worry about is where the timing light is saying the white mark on the harmonic damper lines up with the indicator on the lower timing cover.

With the box unchecked (normal operation) - a live streak via link will show timing oscillating from 8* to 13* or so. These are not exact values, but you should see it cycling in some range above 5*.

 

[miliman13]

ok, so i think i made some progress, "still working on it"
i got to (.25 AirPerRev)
(.3 of idle load. )
(.63 tps volts)
(o - throttle)

But, how i got there, seems unorthodox.
look at my sliders andfuel tab what do guys think?

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Using -40% global and 315 deadtime "as recommended by ECMlink" was not working at all for me, not even close.


So i just played around untill i started to notice changes, i brought my CombinedFT wayy up by messing with global fuel , and lowering my maf sliders, and in doing so it actully brought me to .25 airPERrev

Does this look wrong.??

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Also, when i grounded the timing check box, my timing went from 5BTDC to 10ATDC, on the timing light. _ but i did it verbatim so it should be good.

this is a pic of how my CAS sits at 5BTDC according to timing light when ground box is checked.

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[gofer]

You're missing a valve cover bolt.

 

[miliman13]

You're missing a valve cover bolt.

It's the only one missing. very observant .

Hey as long as i have expected results. Does it matter how i get them ?