Arp Rod bolts TOO tight?

[-TunedDSM-]

i had ARP rod bolts installed in my new motor on 1g big rods.

After the car running for all of 20 seconds i had a piston tap a valve.

I replaced the single bad piston (and new head of course), and put it all back together and found that i could not rotate the crank AT all by hand.

After pulling the pan again, as soon as i loosen just ONE side of the rod that i had to undo, it spins great. But as soon as i do 40 FT/lbs on the ARP's, the crank WILL not rotate.

It ran for 30 seconds, i pulled the arp's off the rod, put a new piston on, torqued them down again (with moly lube), and now theyre almost too tight?

I dont want to just leave them a little looser, and i dont want to have my crank be too tight to even turn with a breakar bar!

Help!

 

[Sharadon]

The bolt isn't the problem. It's the bearing clearence. Recheck the rod and the bearing and make sure you have it on correctly. Match the bearing tangs so they are on the same side. If it's binding up that is the issue. I doubt the engine would run even for a short time without serious bearing damage if it was to tight(not enough bearing clearance) before you had it apart.

 

[-TunedDSM-]

no, it cranked over by hand beautifully prior to the piston dropping.

Bearing clearances were great first time around.

All that happened was it fired up (with good bearing clearances and being able to rotate it by hand easily), valve dropped from a faulty head, boom.

So all ive done since it being beautifully working was taken one single rod out. And that one single rod now is the culprit of the crank not being able to move.

Would excess engine lube/engine lube on both sides of the bearings this time cause this maybe?

I guess ill take the rod out and take the bearings out of this single rod and check them

 

[Sharadon]

Check to make sure the rod isn't bent.

 

[-TunedDSM-]

how the eff would a rod have bent? Thanks for the info, ill check into it, but gosh.. it ran for 20 seconds MAX before my valve dropped, never even went over 1100 rpm's. And the rods were brand new shot peened and line honed and machine shop massaged

 

[-TunedDSM-]

ok i took the rod out, and the rod def is still like brand new.

Once again though, you can barely turn the crank and its only when i fully tighten the #1 rod (the only rod ive pulled out since the build)

 

[GVR4592]

What's the I.D. on the big end of the rod and the O.D. of the rod journals on the crank?