ARP Main stud woes. NEED ENGINE BUILDERS ADVISE

[TalonTsi_291]

This is not a thread asking rather a line hone needs to be performed when installing main studs. I know that its a luck of the draw, either it has to be done, or it doesn't. My concerns, the engine was assembled with main studs, but no line hone. Crank spun free like butter. Engine has been ran about 100 miles with good oil pressure and no problems. I re-torqued the head studs recently and was wanting to pull the pan and re-torque the mains and rods. After reading up, I found this issue I'm at now, I had no idea a line might be needed. I've read a bunch of post saying it has to be done, it may need to be done, I didn't do it and it was fine... ect, ect. This project has taken me alot longer than I ever planned. I REALLY dont want to pull the engine back out and tear it down, but if it has to be done, then I have no choice obviously. I read a post where a member stated he called arp and they instructed him to install the bearings and crank, plasti-gauge the clearances, and go from there. When I measured clearance's, they were all the same and all in perfect spec at all 5 journals. My questions, should I still proceed with dropping the pan like I was planning, and go ahead and drop the caps one at a time inspecting for pre mature or odd bearing wear? Some input from members who have had any issues like this, or engine builds who have dealt with this would really help.

 

[bryanwheat]

The main and rod studs to not need to be re torqued if they were properly stretched on assembly. This means that they were torqued, loosened and re torqued 3 times.

 

[NHerron]

It's simple to know. Torque the main caps down as if you were for the last time, except with no crank and no bearings. You would then take an inside micrometer and measure the bore in different spots. All the measurements should be the same down to the thousandth (.001) and not come out egg shaped which is what tends to happen on some main stud conversions.

Bryan this is what I gather from ARP. Retorquing things like head studs on the engine is necessary because the head gasket compresses after 'x' heat cycles. It has nothing to do with the studs themselves. However, if you're talking about the nuts/studs wearing into eachother then I somewhat agree. Although using their 'Moly lube' makes this difference very negligible.

I suppose either way you end up loosening and retorquing at least 3 times anyway if you are checking clearances etc.

 

[TalonTsi_291]

I guess I should have my question a little more clear. The engine is in the car fully assembled and running. Ive personally seen a 4g63 with main studs that wasnt line honed. So where do I turn from here? I had no clue that a line hone may be needed after the install. So would dropping the caps give any insite or closure on the subject. Like I said, oil clearance was perfect. I checked with the plasti-gauge at the bottom of the cap. Would the bore become out of round at the top and bottoms, or at the sides where the cap and block meet?

 

[flawlessTSI]

If you checked them once and they are good then they wouldent have changed in the 100miles . I say jusy leve it. I've built many 4g's with Arp mains and never line honed.

 

[NHerron]

The bore would come out of round where the cap meets the block. I personally would keep running it. If it hasnt given any problems yet I wouldnt fret. But in the future, it never hurts to be certain on machine work.

 

[HIGHPSI4]

As stated above. If it is in there leave it. Most people do not line hone for main studs. You should, just to make sure all specs are good, have the block line honed.

 

[JacksonAuto]

The short answer is that it's too late to do anything about it really. If the crank turned freely, clearances were good and it's running well with good oil pressure then I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. The odds are in your favor. Very rarely do we have to align hone a 4G63 block after installing studs.