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ARP Headstuds

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rare1

15+ Year Contributor
125
1
Mar 12, 2007
Hamersville, Ohio
When you install Arp headstuds do you use molylube on the stud where it goes in the block?I know you use it where the nuts go on.
 
No you don't have to use the lube on the stud where it goes in the block. Its a good idea to clean the threads in the block though before you install the studs. And remember, the studs should be just hand tight in the block. No need to go twisting on them with a big ratchet. Use the lube on the studs where the nuts go on, and on both sides of the washers, and on the bottoms of the nuts where they contact the washers.
 
Yes use it on both sides of the studs.

False. It only goes on the top side since that's the area you want to minimize friction when torquing the nut.

The bottom threads should be bone dry and of course make sure the bore is freshly tapped, clean and dry.

Now, if you were using head bolts you would put the lubricant on the bottom threads.
 
False. It only goes on the top side since that's the area you want to minimize friction when torquing the nut.

The bottom threads should be bone dry and of course make sure the bore is freshly tapped, clean and dry.

Now, if you were using head bolts you would put the lubricant on the bottom threads.


Some opposite info here...but I've always heard of Mike's methodology.
 
on all the times I have installed ARP studs, I have put a small amount of the moly on the bottom threads, to make for smooth engagement of the threads, the main ting is that the bolt holes in the block are clean and grime free.. ( DO NOT use a tap, this cuts the threads and can weaken them, use a "Thread CHASER" basicly it is a blunt tap) or cut 3 grooves in a old head bolt across the threads (tap like)

after the studs are installed hand tight and the gasket and head is on, when you go to Torque the head stud nuts, the studs may move slightly till they take a seat in the block.
 
I just spoke to an engineer at ARP yesterday, because I am replacing my head on a 2G. He told me use a thread chaser...not a tap, chase the threads. Spray brakleen in the holes, spray with compressed air and repeat till clean. screw in the studs hand tight, till they bottom...then back out 1/16 turn. On the upper threads, use ARP "perma torque" a new lube with much lower friction coeficient. He said to coat the threads on the stud really well, lube the washers (both sides) and the bottoms of the nuts. Torque to 80 ft/lbs (7 bolt) in 3 steps. 25, 50, 80.
 
i know this is an old thread but i need to make sure i get this right before i mess something up.
So when installing the ARP pt#207-4201 in a 7 bolt, you have to re-thread/chase the block?
If so what size is the 6 bolt? 12mm?
 
6 bolts use 12 mm studs, 7 bolts use 11 mm.

It's always a good idea to chase the threads and clean them out properly before installing the studs.
 
This is the thread size? Not the top of the bolt is a 12mm?
 

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I don't think I understand your question...

The 11 mm stud in a 7 bolt is the size of the bolt/stud. I'd have to look up the thread pitch though. 11 mm doesn't mean it uses a 11 mm socket.
 
Sorry for being confusing, i have a hard time with words. Heres my situation...
The bolt on the left is an ARP, the bolt on the right is oem 7 bolt. Both are use a 12mm socket. The ARP doesnt wanna go in even after cleaning the threads and all. Is this because the ARP is bigger? I tried the ARP nut on the oem bolt and it fits but it wiggles. I cant pull it off so there probably both a 1.25. I've got it!!
Fill in the blank:
Headbolts
6 bolt/ARP: ?x1.25, i think 12x1.25
7 bolt: 11x1.25, according to ColumbusDSM
 
Fill in the blank:
Headbolts
6 bolt/ARP: 12x1.25
7 bolt: 11x1.25

Looks right.

It does look like you may have a 6 bolt stud there. Grab a caliper or something and measure the diameter.
 
so dont re-thread my block? get the right ones instead?
just tried them in a spare "2.3" block that seems to be a 6 bolt (by looks of where the tranny bolts up) and they fit good in there.
also no caliper.
 
Ya, you need to get the right studs. Drilling and re-threading will never be as strong IMO.

Are there numbers on the bolts? Do you have the box they came in?
 
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