ARP Head studs/nuts mating w/ SI/Manley shims

[eclpsegsx12]

Ok, heres my dilema for you all.....I have SI/Manley dual springs and retainers with shims.....I cannot get the ARP head nuts to go onto the stud because the shim is in the way. I have tried lifting the head up, setting the nuts in the head but it still will not go around...It looks like im stuck to a few options and one of those options i dont want to take. I could grind the select few nuts to the point where it will fit around but i dont know how that will affect sealing the head to the block. Im sitting here waiting to put my head on(the motor is out of the car FYI) so i can get my motor done but obviously I cant. Another option i have is to redo the head with different springs/retainers but thats not gonna happen.....If someone could help me out here, id really appreciate it....Thanks

Jeff

 

[Suparata]

Put the washers in place first then the studs in the block or slide the head in place whatever the case might be.

 

[eclpsegsx12]

the nut with the washer wont fit around the shim, thats the problem...either way i do it, it wont work

 

[Suparata]

I know that the washer doesn’t go on if the head is on the block and the studs installed in the block but I’m surprised that the nut doesn’t go on either. Did you try to do what I said with the washers and now the nut doesn’t go on?
Mitch.

 

[1fast97gsx]

hes saying that the washer hits the shim no matter in what order he does it. The hole for the headstud is physically to close to the shim to fit a washer in there.

 

[1fast97gsx]

Ok, heres my dilema for you all.....I have SI/Manley dual springs and retainers with shims.....I cannot get the ARP head nuts to go onto the stud because the shim is in the way. I have tried lifting the head up, setting the nuts in the head but it still will not go around...It looks like im stuck to a few options and one of those options i dont want to take. I could grind the select few nuts to the point where it will fit around but i dont know how that will affect sealing the head to the block. Im sitting here waiting to put my head on(the motor is out of the car FYI) so i can get my motor done but obviously I cant. Another option i have is to redo the head with different springs/retainers but thats not gonna happen.....If someone could help me out here, id really appreciate it....Thanks

Jeff

Do the nuts alone fit? I'm thinking go buy some washers that are slightly smaller and then put those on and then the nut?

 

[eclpsegsx12]

Yes, the nut alone fits perfect. I thought about new washers but i dont want to mess anything up by not using ARPs. What washers should i get that would be strong like ARPs but smaller? Id sure hate to pull the springs/retainers just to put my head on! The shim is HUGE and wont budge at all. This only happens on 4 of the nuts/studs, and smaller washers for those 4 might do it...I just want everything to be secure and done right after dropping thousands into my motor.

 

[Suparata]

Take a look at this picture : http://www.engintecs.com/gallery/album14/MitsuBronzeGuides_2
Washers don't all go on no matter what springs you are using and , since the SI's are bigger in diameter than the stock, it is even harder.
You have to put the washers where they are supposed to be before you install the studs in the block. So , since I believe that you have the head on the block with the studs installed, you will have to remove the studs where the washers don't go on, slide the washer in place and then reinstall the studs in the block.
It should work like that.
Mitch.

 

[1fast97gsx]

Take a look at this picture : http://www.engintecs.com/gallery/album14/MitsuBronzeGuides_2
Washers don't all go on no matter what springs you are using and , since the SI's are bigger in diameter than the stock, it is even harder.
You have to put the washers where they are supposed to be before you install the studs in the block. So , since I believe that you have the head on the block with the studs installed, you will have to remove the studs where the washers don't go on, slide the washer in place and then reinstall the studs in the block.
It should work like that.
Mitch.

I know the springs don't do much moving, but if the washer is physically too big and if he does manage to get it in between 2 coils and tighten down the nut won't the little movement of the spring hit the washer? Its hard to say without seeing pics of this guys setup and the actual problem ... I personally say get some smaller washers and call it a day.

 

[1fast97gsx]

Yes, the nut alone fits perfect. I thought about new washers but i dont want to mess anything up by not using ARPs. What washers should i get that would be strong like ARPs but smaller? Id sure hate to pull the springs/retainers just to put my head on! The shim is HUGE and wont budge at all. This only happens on 4 of the nuts/studs, and smaller washers for those 4 might do it...I just want everything to be secure and done right after dropping thousands into my motor.

I'm sure most automotive grade washers would be fine. If not take the arps and just grind them down a little around the edges where they are hitting .. although I wouldn't want to deal with that.

 

[eclpsegsx12]

Take a look at this picture : http://www.engintecs.com/gallery/album14/MitsuBronzeGuides_2
Washers don't all go on no matter what springs you are using and , since the SI's are bigger in diameter than the stock, it is even harder.
You have to put the washers where they are supposed to be before you install the studs in the block. So , since I believe that you have the head on the block with the studs installed, you will have to remove the studs where the washers don't go on, slide the washer in place and then reinstall the studs in the block.
It should work like that.
Mitch.

I know...I have the washers where they are suppose to go, but the washer and nut combined is too big to clear the shim. Im going to call slowboyracing tomorrow and ask them because they are the people who i bought them from and they have done it before..Ill see what they say and let you all know.

 

[eclpsegsx12]

Ok guys. I called slowboy and they said to gring down the select few nuts to clear the shims. They also said that SI is aware of the problem and that they trying new things. Either way, this way should work fine. You have to grind down 4 of the nuts(2 on the intake and 2 on the exhuast side) but after that, its smooth sailing. I should make an FYI thread about this somewhere so people know what to do. Thanks for the help guys, now my beast will be running very shortly.

 

[Suparata]

Why don’t you do this instead of messing with the ARP nut?
Doesn’t it make more sense to grind one small part of the seat than “narrow” the whole diameter of the nut which is far more important?
Mitch.

 

[eclpsegsx12]

Well maybe so but i did not want to dis-assemble the head and do that, so i grinded the nuts and it worked fine. However, i am switching to crower valvetrain because these in combination were way to stiff to let the cam rotate and yes i did have everything correct. I felt as if my starter would be shot after 5k miles of starting it up with these. My SI/Manleys are now for sale to anyone that wants them. They are too much spring for me, but as the saying goes, you live and you learn.