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Anyone running the FP HTA DSM86 turbo?

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Corey, tried to find some logs when I was running more then 32 psi but I didn't have any luck without going through a ton of logs (was taking multiple logs daily last year). Most of the time I was running right around 32psi, so not an accurate number if your looking for when I hit 32psi when running more boost then that (with my EBC I have zero boost spike, boost is more gradual when getting to target boost).

Can say, that from 20-26psi, it took right around 200rpm more. So I would assume ~400rpm more from 20-32psi. Or my guess of ~5000K is probably pretty close.
 
Hey, just wondering but where are you guys tapping into for your boost source being that there's not a spot on the compressor housing? Hate running a long hose to the intake manifold or all the way around the engine. Also hate the thought of drilling and tapping into the compressor cover of a $2200 turbo as well. Input???
 
Let's get some dyno sheets and timeslips for these cars!

I made 508whp and went 131mph on 30psi on a tired stock shortblock with 125psi of compression across the board.

I'm up to 36psi now but haven't re-dynoed or gone back to the track, I know this poor shortblock can't take much more.



Hey, just wondering but where are you guys tapping into for your boost source being that there's not a spot on the compressor housing? Hate running a long hose to the intake manifold or all the way around the engine. Also hate the thought of drilling and tapping into the compressor cover of a $2200 turbo as well. Input???

I welded a 1/8th NPT bung to my LICP right before it 90's into the FMIC and bought a 1/8th NPT to -4AN adapter.

I'm a big proponent of "screwing up" a cold side by tapping it for a nipple/fitting.

You can't really see it from the picture so I circled it, but it's there.
 

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My friend did 132 on a stock auto with no stall, it basically didn't move until the last 1/8, I know you can do better with more boost!
 
With my 3052, there was a nice little raised spot on the compressor cover that I drilled/tapped. On the 82 I left as is & installed a bung on the hot side of my lower IC pipe. About mid way between the turbo & IC. For me this spot was ideal as its close to my EBC solenoid, so it allowed me to drop a couple feet of vacuum line vs the cover location.
 
Well, I have silicone i/c piping from Air to Water Intercooler and decided to search around on their website to see if they had anything good that I could use for my application. And they do.

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_...d=500&osCsid=84d47ef99f63e941ebe8f3bf5e9c13e3
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I can drill into the piping and install this piece anywhere in the piping. A lot cheaper to replace a section of the piping versus the compressor housing. I know this probably doesn't apply to most people, but putting it out there just in case.
 
Any reason why you wouldn't just install a bung & a barbed fitting into one of your IC pipes? I have no experience with your posted fitting but to me, anything installed like that into a silicone coupler seems like a bad idea. I'm sure it fine for guys running 10-15psi but when your running 35+psi, I opt for as fail safe as possible.
 
Any reason why you wouldn't just install a bung & a barbed fitting into one of your IC pipes? I have no experience with your posted fitting but to me, anything installed like that into a silicone coupler seems like a bad idea. I'm sure it fine for guys running 10-15psi but when your running 35+psi, I opt for as fail safe as possible.

I don't run metal piping for my piping. Metal piping gets hot, and that heat transfers to the air that flows through it. So I run silicone piping from turbo to the throttlebody. Best solution for me considering what I'm using.
 
I don't run metal piping for my piping. Metal piping gets hot, and that heat transfers to the air that flows through it. So I run silicone piping from turbo to the throttlebody. Best solution for me considering what I'm using.

Interesting, do you not get alot of expansion from long runs of silicone?

If your worried about heat transfer when using metal, there's always ceramic coating, or heat wrap or sleeving or ...... :p
 
Sure don't. It's pretty tough stuff. You can squeeze it and it'll collapse (when the car isn't running), but going outward, it doesn't expand. I've run it for a pretty good while and my intake temps stay pretty low. You buy it in sections and the bends you need so you don't have to replace the whole pipe. Just the part that needs to be replaced if need be. I have a rather large i/c as well. Here's an older pic of just a section of the piping. The only metal that shows is the mount for the bov, and then my gm maf itself. Other than that, no metal shows and the piping doesn't get hot AT ALL!!! It's a bit more expensive than metal piping but in my opinion, well worth it.

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You just use these to connect the silicone versus the silicone to connect metal pieces.
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I don't wanna get off topic though but if anyone has any questions about it, I don't mind answering via pm.
 
Im not on the bolt-on housing, but I do run the HTA3586. ANYONE thinking of getting this turbo really should. It's just a badass turbo. I have been more than impressed with the punch it packs for a 62mm.

I have never been on the dyno, but I am logging 75+ lbs/min at 38psi and trapping 147 mph with a 3300lbs pig. I run repeated low 10 second passes ONLY because I havent had enough seat time to figure the car out. As soon as I can hook and actually dial the car in, I have no doubt it's a mid 9 second / 150+ mph car. I also drove the car repeatedly to the track last season over 150 miles round trip before I got a trailor.

I can look through some of my logs for spool rpm if anyone is interested, but to tell you the truth I could care less to even know half the time. Give it throttle and your at the rev limit in no time.

As for the water lines, the FP tial fittings are a direct fit and are very easy to install, as well as look nice. Dont forget the FP black restrictor/filter also if you haven't gotten one! Any configuration of the HTA3586 is awesome in my book and worth the $.
 
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I have been running the dsm3586 for 3 years and it kicks ass, 20 psi at 3950rpm in 3rd gear. Had it up to 45psi and pulls very strong with the 2.3L. Car trapped 135mph with 3280lb(pump gas) and a soft launch at around 35psi. BUT I went through 2 built trannies because of the torque. I would not recommend the bolt on housing for the stroker as there is too much backpressure. I will be switching to t3/4 .82 in the near future. 60-120mph 5sec flat at 40psi and pump gas. :)
 
I am going to be switching to one of these (DSM86HTA) from my 42r in my search for a more streetable car. I am going with the bolt on housing. What cams would you guys recommend? I was thinking either GS S3 or buschur bf272. My redline is just over 10,000 so rpm is not an issue.
 
Mine is up and running. Yes, the 86 in Bolton housing. And yes, I know I need to mow my grass. Lol. But anyway, more to come as I can get it dialed in and get rid of the small issues since my car has been down for over a year.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGbOs701U4g]Dsm86 start up. - YouTube[/ame]
 
Every time i hear of a different snail i think ok thats the one im gonna buy next LOL. This is one bad mofo. I still wonder how the dsm hot side does that well? I mean, the t3 has to be a good 10lbs/min better right?
 
I have the fp dsm82 it is making 569/470tq at 33psi
The hot side housing really starts to choke up around 550 awhp but is a great dual map turbo does well on low boost psi 91oct i hit full boost around 4,700 and it starts spooling around 4,100 rpm
 
Well, I have silicone i/c piping from Air to Water Intercooler and decided to search around on their website to see if they had anything good that I could use for my application. And they do.

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_...d=500&osCsid=84d47ef99f63e941ebe8f3bf5e9c13e3
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I can drill into the piping and install this piece anywhere in the piping. A lot cheaper to replace a section of the piping versus the compressor housing. I know this probably doesn't apply to most people, but putting it out there just in case.

Any reason why you wouldn't just install a bung & a barbed fitting into one of your IC pipes? I have no experience with your posted fitting but to me, anything installed like that into a silicone coupler seems like a bad idea. I'm sure it fine for guys running 10-15psi but when your running 35+psi, I opt for as fail safe as possible.

Just thought I'd post an update about the fitting I used. Can't post up much of an update on the car though cause the engine I was using put a rod through the side of the block. So either waiting on some back pay that the government owes me, or find another used motor. But anyway, the fitting I used didn't work out too well. Did a boost leak check and it was leaking badly. So I used another pipe figuring maybe I just didn't cut the hole very well. But it leaked pretty badly as well. Gonna change the bottom I/C pipe out for an aluminum hard pipe.

I'll post any other updates as I have them, but I'll say that while the motor was running, this turbo sure made it fun. Hoping it won't be forever before I can post up some good updates but custody hearings and court is expensive.
 
Just wondering if any of you guys had any updates about track times, etc. with your turbos. I ran a 10.9@129 back in November after years of issues. Amazed at how long I've had this turbo now and JUST now being able to start getting things dialed in. Engine issues (engine builder messed up my stroker so went with an aluminum rod 2.0), and plenty of other problems. I was at the track and they dropped a pro tree that I didn't expect so my launch sucked with a 1.7 60ft, then bounced off the rev limiter for like half a second because I had been fighting an ignition issue and was expecting it to keep doing it, but it didn't.

Anyway, that was at like 32 psi, but trying to get back out to the 1/8th mile and get it going faster with more boost. It's tax time and been debating on swapping over to a divided T4 BW S476 turbo. But wondering how the spool with that thing would be and just compare to this turbo in general. Either swap to that, or keep throwing other mods at the car. Hmmm....
 
Sorry for bringing this up from the dead.

I have a 2.4l stroker motor from magnus, hta88 with fp30/gt35 turbine wheel with an fp cast mani. I assume the 86 and 88 are relatively similiar in comparison? Last year I went 10.53 @136mph at 31psi, running 94octane+ 50/50 meth injection with a manual transmission with an evo3 gearset. Shredded many manual transmissions so converted to a built auto with 9" strokinator converter from sinister speed, and going to be running e98 next race season.
 
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