2G Anyone know what the torque spec is for a 2G throttle body shaft

[GSXRunner]

Can't seem to find this anywhere. I replaced my seals recently and it was leaking, so I took it apart, tightened it a bit and it still leaks. I am afraid to overdo it, so I may be under-doing it.

No one has this info?

 

[chrysler kid]

Its brass and strips easily. I dont know the specs but wrist tight is a tight as ive dared to go. Usually in put thread sealer on the threads

 

[19Eclipse90]

@snowborder714

Maybe Brian will chime in.

 

[GSXRunner]

Its brass and strips easily. I dont know the specs but wrist tight is a tight as ive dared to go. Usually in put thread sealer on the threads

Why would you put thread sealer on the threads? It's not going to stop leaks as it's only a nut. If the seals aren't holding pressure, the throttle is going to leak. If the nut isn't tightened enough, then there will be more radial play which will flex and/or wear the seal prematurely in one spot as the throttle is moved, causing a leak. If it's too tight, it could distort the shaft and cause all kinds of problems. This is why torquing this is critical for this shaft. I may have already damaged the seals because I didn't have it tight enough. If I replace the seals, I don't want to have to do this again (those seals are expensive); which is why I need the torque specs. It's a mystery that no one seems to know this.

 

[snowborder714]

With all of the throttle bodies I've rebuilt, I've never torqued one I just went until it was pretty darn tight and called it a day. In my experience, if you have it tight and it's still leaking, there's either an issue with the shaft seal itself or the hole the seal goes in.

What kind of seals are you using?

Its brass and strips easily. I dont know the specs but wrist tight is a tight as ive dared to go. Usually in put thread sealer on the threads

I think you might be thinking of the throttle plate and not the shaft. The shaft is definitely steel.

 

[chrysler kid]

I think you might be thinking of the throttle plate and not the shaft. The shaft is definitely steel.

Maybe? I know I still have two spare ones sitting around, and in recall messing up the blade sealing the shaft on one of them, because you know apparently there is a difference if you slide the blade back in upside down?

Why thread sealer? I didnt have and lock tite. I mean I also may have put some on the retaining washer to make it have less air space.

To be a little more helpful;
I also searched using key terms for rebuilding the throttle body, but was not able to even find good pictures to reinforce what I remember doing to rebuild the throttle body shaft seals

Could have sworn I followed a write up on these forums with pictures but I can not find it anymore.

I do remember setting base idle on an automatic 2g was a complete pain in the ass.

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[snowborder714]

Maybe? I know I still have two spare ones sitting around, and in recall messing up the blade sealing the shaft on one of them, because you know apparently there is a difference if you slide the blade back in upside down?

Why thread sealer? I didnt have and lock tite. I mean I also may have put some on the retaining washer to make it have less air space.

Correct, the plate does function going in only one direction. You've got to pay attention to which direction it is before you remove it.

To be a little more helpful;
I also searched using key terms for rebuilding the throttle body, but was not able to even find good pictures to reinforce what I remember doing to rebuild the throttle body shaft seals

Could have sworn I followed a write up on these forums with pictures but I can not find it anymore.

I do remember setting base idle on an automatic 2g was a complete pain in the ass.

It was probably this one from vfaq.com.

TB Shaft Seals VFAQ

I see you're using mil.spec seals (or some other metal-cased option). I know that with mil.spec seals, they are very tight, and just pushing in the shaft can cause the spring-side seal to unseat a bit. When I install them, I stack a bunch of washers on the shaft and then install the nut to make sure the seal is fully seated. Then remove the nut and washers and continue with the rebuild. They are very easy to bend as well so if you do not install them perfectly straight, you may have damaged the seal. I use a seal install tool to make sure I don't damage them on install as I've done it once or twice before.

I'm not sure what's going on with the spring-side seal in your 2nd picture. It kind of looks damaged so hopefully it's the old seal, some dielectric grease, or a camera trick.

 

[chrysler kid]

Yeah it was not a success. I ended up buying a used one from miller import parts. At bolted on and functioned flawlessly and didnt leak

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

I rebuilt a couple throttle bodies with info. from this Jafro video. The mil-spec seals have to be installed near-perfect, or they leak as @snowborder714 mentioned.

Rebuild shots from a build thread:

Have been itching to take care of some large pressure leaks from the throttle body shaft seals on the red Summit. Opted to go for the HD shaft seals for this rebuild. 91-99 DSM shaft seals will work for the Evo III throttle body. Really need to get myself one of the shaft seal install tools. Fuel injector upper and lower seals were also replaced (common pressure leak). Some words of advice if you try this:
-Keep all components together and take pics for reference.
-Mark springs/sensors/throttle plate for reassembly.
-File/grind the throttle plate screws since they are peened to prevent backing out.
-Use an impact screwdriver (manual) to remove the screws on the throttle shaft and housing.
-purchase extra shaft seals in the event you damage any upon install.
-use thread locker and re-peen the throttle plate screws on reassembly.
-take the time to adjust everything properly.

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[GSXRunner]

With all of the throttle bodies I've rebuilt, I've never torqued one I just went until it was pretty darn tight and called it a day. In my experience, if you have it tight and it's still leaking, there's either an issue with the shaft seal itself or the hole the seal goes in.

What kind of seals are you using?

Well then I need to borrow your "pretty dam tight" wrench because mine usually strips the threads whenever I attempt to use it.

They're the STM seals I'm using.

 

[snowborder714]

Well then I need to borrow your "pretty dam tight" wrench because mine usually strips the threads whenever I attempt to use it.

They're the STM seals I'm using.

Have you pulled the seals back out (very carefully) to see how they look and make sure they're not damaged?

I'd guess the STM seals might be the mil.spec ones but I can't be positive without seeing them.

 

[GSXRunner]

Have you pulled the seals back out (very carefully) to see how they look and make sure they're not damaged?

I'd guess the STM seals might be the mil.spec ones but I can't be positive without seeing them.

I can't see how they can be removed without destroying them. They have a metal rim that is sure to get mangled if you try removing them, no matter how careful you are.

 

[snowborder714]

Sounds like a replacement is necessary at this point then. I've never tried to remove one that wasn't already destined for the trash so I wasn't sure if it might be possible.

 

[GSXRunner]

Sounds like a replacement is necessary at this point then. I've never tried to remove one that wasn't already destined for the trash so I wasn't sure if it might be possible.

How much in/out play should there be with the throttle plate removed? I'm getting around 1mm. Is that typical? or am I missing shims/washers?

 

[snowborder714]

There shouldn't be any movement as far as I'm aware. I've never specifically attempted to do that but once you bolt in the shaft, it should stay put. If not, it could cause the throttle plate to bind.

On the TPS side, there should be a plastic washer (most likely yellow/brown in color at this point) under the tab end of the shaft. On the other side, you should have a lock washer and a nut.

 

[GSXRunner]

There shouldn't be any movement as far as I'm aware. I've never specifically attempted to do that but once you bolt in the shaft, it should stay put. If not, it could cause the throttle plate to bind.

On the TPS side, there should be a plastic washer (most likely yellow/brown in color at this point) under the tab end of the shaft. On the other side, you should have a lock washer and a nut.

Well, I replaced the seals again and there's no more leaking; but there still is 1mm play before installing the throttle plate. The play is taken up by the spring so you have to push the shaft on the spring side to see the play. In the relaxed position, the throttle plate goes in easily with no noticeable binding and once in the throttle shows no binding while rotating the shaft through the full range of motion. I do have the plastic washer under the TPS and on the other side, there's the lock washer and nut; I just wondered if there was anything else that I might be missing. I'm not going to assume that I'm the first to take everything apart and I haven't seen an exploded view of the internals.

I would imagine there would have to be some play; not sure if 1mm is too much. I guess if you're not looking for this play, you probably wouldn't know it exists. Obviously, you wouldn't see it after you install the throttle plate because the plate will prevent it from moving. My theory is if the play is excessive, it might allow the seals to move when under high pressure.

 

[snowborder714]

Well, I replaced the seals again and there's no more leaking; but there still is 1mm play before installing the throttle plate. The play is taken up by the spring so you have to push the shaft on the spring side to see the play. In the relaxed position, the throttle plate goes in easily with no noticeable binding and once in the throttle shows no binding while rotating the shaft through the full range of motion. I do have the plastic washer under the TPS and on the other side, there's the lock washer and nut; I just wondered if there was anything else that I might be missing. I'm not going to assume that I'm the first to take everything apart and I haven't seen an exploded view of the internals.

I would imagine there would have to be some play; not sure if 1mm is too much. I guess if you're not looking for this play, you probably wouldn't know it exists. Obviously, you wouldn't see it after you install the throttle plate because the plate will prevent it from moving. My theory is if the play is excessive, it might allow the seals to move when under high pressure.

Honestly, it sounds like you're probably good to go. Run it and see what happens.