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Anyone know if this is a stroker crank 2.3 PICS

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BOBS90TURBO

20+ Year Contributor
581
5
Sep 18, 2002
Tulsa, Oklahoma
I bought this engine used from an auction, it has Wiscos and Eagles, ARP everything, it seems to have a lot more TQ than any of my other DSM's.
 

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Nope not a 100mm crank, a stroker rquires clearancing on the main caps and 3 cyl area.
 
I concor concour .. co .. With the previous doctor , you have to take the mains and grind them down a bit to get clearance . not a 2.4 crank
 
no disrespect to the other guys but there is no realy a way to tell by the pics my frien just finish his stroker motor and he didnt have to grind the mains like they said
 
Thats funny , ive done 2 myself and helped with 3 others and we had to grind the caps every time.

Unless your friend has a butcher crank I have never seen someone do it and get away without having to take a little off
 
I built more than I can remember and I have only had to actualy clearence a couple. I clearence all of them for a safty margin, just incase it spins a bearing. Two ways to tell, measure the stroke, or take out a piston and rod. If the pin in the piston will be a riased pin hight (pin is actualy into the oil ring a little).
 
If it is a 2.4 crank, it will have 64 cast into the edge of the very front counter weight. The casting is on all 4g64 cranks. Havent payed much attention but the 4g63 probably has 63 cast into it.

What is all the trash on the oil pickup? Spun bearing?
 
As far as the grinding on the main caps, and /or in and around #3 cylinder goes. What specifically needs to be done here has more to do with connecting rod choice than it does what crank is in the motor. Differnt rods styles H, I, A, or X beam styles and what material they are made of Steel, aluminum, Titainum. influence where they may interfear with the engine block. For example rods with a larger beam root are more likely to hit near the base of #3 cylinder., and ones with compact cap and bolt configurations may not hit the cross beam of the main caps.
 
Like mentioned above, not all rods require the clearancing. For example, my Olivers didn't require clearancing anywhere on the block. The builder ground the casting lines off the mains, but that had nothing to do with clearancing, there's no other machining marks to the block. I have the fun of trying to get the moroso oil pan modified to fit over the studs as the girdle kit makes them more proud, but that's another topic.

For a quick check. Stick a thin guide to a certain point on the piston at bottom dead center, then rotate the crank so the piston is at top dead center, and measure the difference in length the guide has to move (just put a mark on the stick from before and after,...). That will tell you the stroke and put an end to the guessing.
 
My 2.0 crank had an 88 on the side somewhere, I am not sure the the stroker crank had a mark or not.

Eagles droped right in on my motor, with no grinding anywhere.
 
You could actually measure it. The conversion to inches is 2.54 centimeters.

So any plans on contacting me about that junk motor you sold to me a while ago? I was able to salvage some of it, and sold other parts of it...so I'd be happy if you would refund me the difference and we could call it even.
 
Yes, the compression is 170 across, So much higher than stock, So if it is not a stroker, I guess the extra TQ is from the 20 over pistons, The seller said it was supposed to be a stroker though.

As for the junk in the pan, I have been worried about it, A lot of it was just chunks of RTV, but there was a few specs of metal, But it does hold pefect compression and sounds and runs great, it is so fast It scares me somtimes. Thnsks
 
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