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Anyone Have This EGR Removal Pic Bigger?

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Mist3r Spool said:
I've heard of that soda can mod but is that going to get rid of my CEL?
If you are getting a CEL because of a faulty EGR valve, you have two options:

- Replace it was a new (and quite expensive) valve.
- Block it off. It will no longer function as it is supposed to, but it should refrain from triggering the CEL.
 
can anyone confirm that its ok to leave the EVAP hose on picture going toward firewall unplugged.
 
Ok so I blocked it off by means of a Coke soda can. I didn't have a drill and found it difficult to make a clean hole in tin. I ended up folding a section of the can so that it's about 5 layers to block the main EGR port. I drove around and after about ~30 miles, the CEL triggered again. Should I just use a scan tool to clear the code versus re-setting the ECU over and over? I ordered a EGR blockoff kit ($4) maybe that'll block better than my rigged POS kit.
 
I believe clearing the code with a scan tool will reset the code, same as disconnecting the battery. If the code is still coming back, something is done wrong. Are you sure the CEL is faulty EGR?
 
Mist3r Spool said:
I ended up folding a section of the can so that it's about 5 layers to block the main EGR port.
WTF Why did you do that? One layer is all you use. Take that crap out.

Exhaust gas and intake air cannot pass through one layer of a pop can so 5 arent needed. A thick plate isn't needed either, it's totally overkill. Go buy yourself some Quiznos instead.
 
Stapl3 said:
WTF Why did you do that? One layer is all you use. Take that crap out.

Exhaust gas and intake air cannot pass through one layer of a pop can so 5 arent needed. A thick plate isn't needed either, it's totally overkill. Go buy yourself some Quiznos instead.

I personally just used a piece of 1/16 inch thick aluminum. Popcan seems to ghetto for me :coy:

The people who use the thicker pieces usually get new shiny bolts such that you don't even have to cut the old bolts shorter.

Hell, If I could spend a saturday making a hundred or so of the thicker ones in a machine shop, and buy 200 bolts for a total of about 40$ material, and sell them for a total of about 1000$.. why the hell wouldn't I
 
drivemusicnow said:
I personally just used a piece of 1/16 inch thick aluminum. Popcan seems to ghetto for me :coy:

The people who use the thicker pieces usually get new shiny bolts such that you don't even have to cut the old bolts shorter.

Hell, If I could spend a saturday making a hundred or so of the thicker ones in a machine shop, and buy 200 bolts for a total of about 40$ material, and sell them for a total of about 1000$.. why the hell wouldn't I

I agree. I just couldn't stick with the 1 piece of soda can tin. I don't doubt at all that it does work I just like to do things nicely and thoroughly so that I don't have to think about it in the future. My theory is that if you take short cuts, you get cut short. Ya feel me? :cool:

Anyway, I ordered the kit from Concept Illusions for $7 w/shipping.
 
The EVAP hoses serve no purpose once they are detached from the EGR system. Simply put, they can hang, be removed or however you want to do it. Saw the question asked alot, so there you go Bro. :thumb:
Mike
 
Oh. And as odd as it sounds, when I did Julias EGR block off, I had a CEL until I actually did unplug the sensors. WTF
Mike
 
wolf20043 said:
The EVAP hoses serve no purpose once they are detached from the EGR system. Simply put, they can hang, be removed or however you want to do it. Saw the question asked alot, so there you go Bro. :thumb:
Mike

heh now i can put the question to rest. on to the next problem of my car while it down, but i guess i shouldnt add to this thread. thnx for conforming wolf and thnx for answering sexygsx.
 
what exactly does the fpr solenoid do? Thats the only sensor that i left on when i did the removal and after reading this thread im just curious if i really need it. If it matters i have a 1g and my mod. list is complete.
 
Ok, so are you guys saying that I'm supposed to KEEP the FPR Solenoid but UN-PLUG and REMOVE the two EGR solenoids? I thought that you need to KEEP all three solenoids plugged in? I guess I could stop being lazy and just try and un-plugging the two EGR solenoids, re-set the ECU, and see if the CEL comes back on. :coy:
 
Mist3r Spool said:
Ok, so are you guys saying that I'm supposed to KEEP the FPR Solenoid but UN-PLUG and REMOVE the two EGR solenoids? I thought that you need to KEEP all three solenoids plugged in? I guess I could stop being lazy and just try and un-plugging the two EGR solenoids, re-set the ECU, and see if the CEL comes back on. :coy:
I was asking what the function of the FPR solenoid actually did. just because i have it still setup like it did from the factory. Everyting else emissions related except for the FPR solenoid is GONE and caped off on my car. 1G's dont really have to worry about having the sensors still connected or at least i never ran into a CEL problem because of that.
 
Mist3r Spool said:
Ok, so are you guys saying that I'm supposed to KEEP the FPR Solenoid but UN-PLUG and REMOVE the two EGR solenoids? I thought that you need to KEEP all three solenoids plugged in? I guess I could stop being lazy and just try and un-plugging the two EGR solenoids, re-set the ECU, and see if the CEL comes back on. :coy:


The WGS, FPS, EGRS and EVAPS ports don't need to be plugged. However, leave them plugged in to prevent the ECU from throwing CEL and plug the port of the evaporative canister hose on the turbo inlet hose after you remove the canister. The boost gauge may be ran off the "P" port of the throttle body or the FPS line.

that would be the answer............so i assume.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198327
 
I've read that (from taboo, right?). I've tried having the solenoids un-plugged, pugged in, FPR solenoid plugged in only with others unplugged and I keep getting a CEL. Maybe it's not meant for my car to run without the EGR system? :mad: What else can I do? Should I just go borrow a scantool and "clear" the code versus re-setting the ECU?
 
try putting everything back together and see if it clears............

or see if its not another code its throwing besides egr.
 
I'm running into a simmilar problem. I have a CEL that read as "Secondary Emissions Control" on my 95 TSi. I have since capped all the vacuum lines to the selinoids, but left them plugged in. I still have a CEL, but I haven't checked it to see if it's the same. I do not have the EGR blocked off, but 1fast97gsx may be having issues if it's a California Emissions vehicle. It may require something different to keep the CEL from coming on. I'm going to block the EGR off while I'm replacing my fuel filter. As far as the FPR selinoid, I believe it's only for hot start conditions where it momentarily raises fuel pressure. Make sure you keep a vacuum line attached to the FPR though. Let me know if anyone can shed more light on this.
 
Ive been told the fuel pressure solenoid only does something on cold starts(believe it adds more fuel while engine is warming). I noticed when I get rid of my FPR solenoid the rpms were a lot lower at cold start then before. Nothing bad but I did notice a slight difference and I was told that was the reason. I say rip it all out and pull your CE light or get DSMLINK if it annoys you.
 
quick question guys ive removed all the vacum lines like the diagram my question is underneath the thermostate those 2 vacum lines i unplugged? do i plug them or just leave no caps on them?????
 
The solenoid that is connected to you FPR raises the psi at warm up. From what i know you should leave that connected unless you
A. Have a 190lph or higher pump and/or -8an feed and return lines and or an adjustable FPR
B. Only use your dsm at the track with everything in A or more
The reason that is there is because our stock pump's while ok had limitation's not to extend beyond basic mod's. Our OEM feed and return lines also suffer a similar problem. Its best if you drive your car at lease somewhat regularly and have basic bolt on's to just leave it connected and functioning. If you have upgraded your fueling system with a higher flowing pump larger diameter feed and return lines and a superior filtration system and you have an fpr the solenoid is useless. Reason being the extra pressure that naturally comes with replacing your stock fueling system render's the few pounds of additional pressure that its function is to provide meaningless. :aha: :D hope some good comes from this.
The EGR should not directly affect the idle. Failure to follow correct capping and re plumbing procedures that is probably leading to a vac leak. The egr isn't even operational @ idle if I am not mistaken. I bought a sweet high quality piece off e bay for 5 bones shipped. here check it out. Run to ace and buy your self some pretty washer's and blot's and correctly block that thing off. A tin can seriously its funny to think why people think our car's are not reliable. I am sure that the thickness of the metal could hold the pressure for a period of time its by no means a set it and forget it type deal. Talon Laser DSM EGR Delete Block off plate - 4G63:eBay Motors (item 280359473990 end time Jul-16-09 20:01:47 PDT)
 
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