Any advice on how to fix whole clutch system correctly?

[_Madman_]

So it seems I have a classic case of pedal "pump up" on my car, the problem was described in this topic [http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...ft-3-4-5-after-prolonged-highway-driving.html] and after going 250 more km, it's now worse. And I isolated that the clutch pump-up while rolling really helped.

I want to fix the problem and after some research I'm still not sure how to do it once and correctly at the same time.

What I'm thinking is:
New master cylinder (OEM)
New slave cylinder (OEM)
Some weird ?valve? thingy delete (useless valve or something on 2G, as mechanic says?)
Preferably SS clutch line (aftermarket) (EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts)

But I'm not really sure about that weird valve. What is it for, is it safe to delete, any downsides, why is it there in the first place?
Also, I don't know if I need only SS line, or is there anything else to look out for?

And as far as I remember, there was also a problem that the pedal stopped working if there was no free-play at the top of it. It gradually got worse and worse until it stopped disengaging at all. So I don't know if the longer free-play was a fix for the problem or just a fix for the symptom. And I want to fix that problem as well if I can if I do the whole system replacement.

So is my parts list correct? Should I do the delete of that valve thing? Is there anything else I should read about?

 

[noavgjoe]

This is exactly what just started happening to me. I did quite a bit of highway driving and even though I wasnt shifting much when I tried to up or downshift it was very rubbery and the pedal was lower. Once I got off the highway and things cooled down it was back to normal. I was just thinking the clutch was going bad and needed to be replaced very soon and nothing more.

Thanks for starting the thread.

 

[_Madman_]

Today I received the information about master/slave pricing.

The quote for both parts is around 400$, is this normal? WTF

How much did you spent on your setups? I heard aftermarket cylinders have whole lot of problems.

 

[Boostinsideways]

I don't really know much about getting the parts in europe but, here are the OEM master and slave links.

Master : (135.12$ US)
JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts

Slave : (70.95 $ US)
JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts

 

[_Madman_]

Thank you! I will contact them, these prices are a lot lower!

 

[Boostinsideways]

Yeah thats right @ 200$ us, but you gotta take into account shipping, customs, and excise tax.

I assume your country does tax stuff going through customs.

 

[_Madman_]

Yeah thats right @ 200$ us, but you gotta take into account shipping, customs, and excise tax.

I assume your country does tax stuff going through customs.

Yes, but the overhead multiplier is around ~1.6, which results in ~320$, still a lot less than 400$+