another clutch engagement problem

[isaiah]

Ok, sorry for another Clutch thread. I always use search, just can't find one relating to me. Ok i did a 5speed swap receantly( finished near the end of july) the transmission is from a 90TSi AWD. i have the 90 shifter, 90 cables, a new pedal assembly from john shepherd, a new firandza flywheel, act 2600 with a street disk, new act throwout bearing, new oem clutch fork, new oem piviot ball, new oem slave and master cylinder, new release boot, new TO bearing clip, new goodridge ss line (from master to slave). Well if i start the car, i can't get it into gear, even with the clutch to the floor, unless the car is rolling forward(like if it was on a hill) then i can. But most of the time i have to start the car in gear with the clutch all the way down. when i do that (the clutch is still to the floor) the car wants to roll foward(in 1st gear) or back( if i'm in reverse). ive bleed it several times with my friend pumping it, holding about halfway, me open and close it, him pull the petal up and repeat. but this didn't help. i maxed out the adjustment on the master clyinder and i was able to get it into gear once then it did it again. while driving, the engine needs to be at right speed to go in gear. like if the rpms drop pass the "rev match" then i won't go it to gear. clutch currently has 5xx miles on it. my guess was possible leak in line but not sure. Any thing will help. Thanks for your time.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

It sounds to me like it just isn't adjusted correctly and therefore not letting the clutch fully disengage. A clutch not disengaging properly is exactly what you have described. Have you adjusted to get the correct pedal height and freeplay?

 

[isaiah]

NO stupid stupid. i'll do that and see how it works out when i get the car running next week. thank you. ill post if it helps.

 

[BoredDSM]

Just a heads up but a lot of people have problems with aftermarket throwout bearings.

Jacks transmission has a great write-up for adjusting the clutch.

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A little info on why people don't like the act throwout bearing.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/33992-oem-act-throw-out-bearing.html

 

[isaiah]

Ok, i tried the way jack trans recomends in that video, and i when i did i can't move the clutch fork at all, it's like it's stuck. i can push the rod itself but the fork won't move by hand. I didn't put alot if lube on the ball or the TO bearing guide?

 

[isaiah]

Any more ideas?

 

[DSMboostin15]

I'm in the same boat as you man. I just finished up a clutch swap with an ACT 2600/XACT flywheel combo and an OEM TOB, fork, and pivot ball. Like you, I've maxed out the master cylinder adjustment and bled the system several times. I'm thinking that my MC is on it's last legs and not allowing for max fluid transfer, so I'm going to pick one up shortly and try that. I'll let you know if it helps out.

 

[isaiah]

I'm in the same boat as you man. I just finished up a clutch swap with an ACT 2600/XACT flywheel combo and an OEM TOB, fork, and pivot ball. Like you, I've maxed out the master cylinder adjustment and bled the system several times. I'm thinking that my MC is on it's last legs and not allowing for max fluid transfer, so I'm going to pick one up shortly and try that. I'll let you know if it helps out.

alright. thanks man. my MC is new so idk what's going on.

 

[and1chewy]

i just replaced my slave cylinder and my clutch pedal doesnt seem to grab lil about half way down could my pedal need adjusting?

 

[KEEBS]

Try adjusting the rod that connects the clutch pedal to the master rod. Not the Master rod itself.. under the dash with a 14mm wrench, you ill need to tighten the rod. I had the same problem. Changed the master, slave, lines, clutch and fork, shimmed the fork ect.. still had a low clutch (to the floor) after I tightened that rod it brought my clutch up enough.

 

[isaiah]

Would a torn drive side motor mount have anything to do with this?

Any more idea's before i pull the tranny out???

EDIT: ok, i'm gonna pull the transmisson tonight. What should i look for?

 

[isaiah]

Ok, so i took my transmission out last night and inspected everything. the flywheel and pressure plate had some glazing on it, i put everything back together and put a shim on the fulcrum ball and regreesed the TOB. So aftter a long day of work, i started it up and was able to get it into reverse and backed it up a few feet. The Battery went dead and I had a friend give me a jump. After i started it there was this weird rattling noise coming from the transmission and when I'd push the clutch in and the sound would go away and it wouldn't go into gear. ANY HELP PLEASE I'm going to start working on it this weekend again so any help is great, thank you.

 

[TTstealth94]

The glazing is probably from your clutch dragging because its not adjusted properly. That's why you were moving forward when you had the clutch in. Normally you only notice it in high rpms, but if your idling with the clutch pushed in and still moving forward, your adjustment is way off. Have you bled the system?

 

[isaiah]

The glazing is probably from your clutch dragging because its not adjusted properly. That's why you were moving forward when you had the clutch in. Normally you only notice it in high rpms, but if your idling with the clutch pushed in and still moving forward, your adjustment is way off. Have you bled the system?

I've bleed the system several times.

 

[skippyman87]

the symptoms of what you have going on seemed like when my tob was out. How did it look when you had the trans out? I had an tob go out on me before, no clutch pedal, hard in gear if at all and rattling noise when clutch was disengaged. I know theres a write up or post about act tobs being too small to apply pressure to the heavier clutch setups.

also have you taken the adjustment rod on the pedal all the way out to see if anything happens or have you just gone turn by turn for the adjustment?

When I replaced my clutch line I had to use a pump style bleeder off of the slave cylinder to finally get all the bubbles out of the fluid. Ill throw up some links give me a sec.

 

[eldiabloz13]

I just did a clutch on a 3kgt and didnt clean the disk/PP before install. When I started the car the coating they have brand new heats up and sticks to the PP. What I did was start the car in reverse to get it out of the garage, come to a stop, shut off then put into first, start car and pull forward and at 3k push the clutch in (while moving still) then slowly let out while still rolling, then stop. Shut off the car and start in neutral and see if that broke it free/was even the problem to begin with.

 

[skippyman87]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vendor-announcements/360636-oem-throw-out-bearings-act-clutches.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...hrow-out-bearing-grenaded-pp-salvageable.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/314795-act-throw-out-bearing-only-3000-miles.html

Also the first act clutch I had was a 6 puck clutch and would chatter when disengaging/engaging if you didnt do it just right. I would aim for a clutch pressure problem first to try and go the easy route. It could also be making that noise because the clutch is still engaged when you release the pedal due to lack of pressure response. I would go online and get a bleeder like this it saves alot of time and patience for sure. let us know how it goes and pm me if you need to

Mityvac

 

[isaiah]

Well, i first did it the way it said to in the jacks transmission video that's on theis thread and that didn't work, so i made it all the way out and it didn't really help either. I've bleed it several times. The TOB looked good, no damage, But the PP have some groves on some of fingers. I'm proabaly going to take it out again to see what's going on, because it didn't make that noise before. Also while the car was running and the clutch went in, the rpms would go up a bit. If a new TOB is need/strongly suggested, I'd like to order one before the weekend so i can drive it next week(dorms are closing and i need to drive it home which is about 250miles away) thanks for the replys I'll look more into it and post my results

 

[Dragon34x]

I've got the same pressure plate as you (act 2600) except I have the unsprung clutch disk... Follow the bleeding procedures from Here ... After having done that I was atleast able to semi force the gears in while the car was running. What REALLY did work for me though was buying an extended slave cylinder rod (got it from ebay... here's the ad thingy

After having installed the extended slave rod, its sooo much easier to shift... Hope this helps

 

[isaiah]

I've read that the extention rods aren't good to use. Well I worked on my baby today. The noise was the shift fork hitting the pressure plate, so i removed the shims. Also replaced the ACT TOB with an OEM TOB. I got everything back together and the same problem, i can't get it in gear, but the noise is gone. I'm going to bleed the system tomorrow and do some adjustment if needed. I'll post my results later.

 

[Dragon34x]

Not good to use? Why? I've had no problems with it since i installed it

 

[isaiah]

Not good to use? Why? I've had no problems with it since i installed it

Like i thought about it when i heard about the extension rods. So i searched the forums and found some threads, this is one of them http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...himming-pivot-ball-vs-extended-slave-rod.html

 

[Dragon34x]

I looked into all those threads including that one.... I'll let ya'll know if i have problems down the line

 

[skippyman87]

Any word after bleeding and adjustment?

 

[isaiah]

Any word after bleeding and adjustment?

I haven't had much time yet. I was studying for final and i just got home a few days ago. I'll post my results as soon as i get it done.