The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Another clutch bleeding question, slave releases with pedal on the floor

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bertrenolds

10+ Year Contributor
254
3
Aug 21, 2010
savage, Minnesota
I just replace my clutch slave and master and I use the pump the slave arm to get air out of the line to get it started trick. Now with a helper I open the slave bleeder nipple and have the helper push the pedal to the floor and the slave moves the fork all the way in but then before I can tighten the bleeder nipple with the pedal still on the floor the slave moves back in releasing pressure on the fork after bleeding several times. The only thing I could do was tighten the nipple fast or I guess I could hold the fork so it doesn't release so that I have to pull the pedal off the floor. I adjusted the master correctly, turned the shaft until I couldn't push in the slave and then turned it back counter clock wise to a point where I could press the slave again. Only thing I havn't replaced in the system is the rubber part of my clutch line so could that maybe be the problem? I was also thinking of getting a speed bleeder to see if that helps. I do have a ACT2100 clutch now and maybe that is to much pressure for the system to hold while bleeding?
 
Sounds like you may need to adjust the master cylinder adjustment rod.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vYJxQyjIhUw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Now with a helper I open the slave bleeder nipple and have the helper push the pedal to the floor

It sounds like you are doing it wrong. Your helper should push the clutch to the floor while the nipple on the slave is still closed to build up the pressure. Then open and close the nipple to let the fluid/air/pressure out, and repeat. The fact that it is an aftermarket clutch has nothing to do with how you bleed it.

Here are some how to's:
How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/213503-how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/60319-how-bleed-your-clutch.html
Slave Cylinder for the Clutch
 
It sounds like you are doing it wrong. Your helper should push the clutch to the floor while the nipple on the slave is still closed to build up the pressure. Then open and close the nipple to let the fluid/air/pressure out, and repeat. The fact that it is an aftermarket clutch has nothing to do with how you bleed it.

Here are some how to's:
How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/213503-how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/60319-how-bleed-your-clutch.html
Slave Cylinder for the Clutch

Good to know since it seems like everyone else says to open the bleeder nut and then push and hold the pedal. And I am positive I have the master set correctly because I did fallow the video that was posted above. I can currently drive my car and the clutch works but I thought it was strange the slave cylinder rod was getting pushed back into the slave with the clutch pedal still pushed to the floor. I will have them push the clutch pedal to the floor and then release the bleeder nut and see if that works.

This http://www.teamrip.com/how_to_properly_bleed_a_hydraulic_clutch_info.html is exactly what I needed! Thanks. I can't believe this isin't a VFAQ?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top