Another boost, but no power thread.

[juanpac0]

So yeah, another one of these threads.

Well, I've read pretty much all the other ones and no one posts the solutions to their problems, so hopefully this will help people who are searching.

When I got the car it was boosting fine, but after Dec 8th, 2008 (yes i remember it that well) my car just felt a lot slower. It felt like the engine was working a lot harder than before, vs. the airplane-like turbo kicking in.

Since then I have done 3 boost leak tests.

First test I found out I had a leak at both bov gaskets, huge one at the fuel injectors, both TB gaskets, and under the TPS.

Now, with all of these leaks it would make sense that I have no power, right? Before I couldnt even pressurize the car over 11-12psi.

Now I've replaced both bov gaskets (did the tire inner tube mod), both TB gaskets, all fuel injector seals.

Third BLT (I skipped the second cause it was just a leak at the BOV):

Only leak I found was under the TPS, but in all the time I've been fixing these boost leaks I haven't felt my car getting faster. It'll creep to 18+psi just fine (stock unported o2 housing) but there is no power.

The cotter pin on the WG arm is still there, and I can give my car 20% throttle the whole time and I can feel it gaining way more power at 3+ plus but there is ZERO difference between 5psi and 15psi power wise.

Timing belt has been done recently, and the timing is 100% correct, and been checked over twice.

I don't think it's phantom knock because I have a logger hooked up when doing these pulls and I get 2 counts of knock maximum even creeping to almost 18psi. The only guy I've seen with an identical issue (anything over 30% throttle doesn't matter in terms of going faster) said it was his knock sensor and didn't mention anything about logging his run.

Pretty damn sure my WG is fine since it'll go up to 18psi, NO bouncing of boost. (ex: 12-15-12-15psi) or anything. The boost raises just fine. My vacuum at idle is about 15-16 in/Hg but I believe I can attribute that to my TB shaft seal(s) leaking. BUT I don't think that the TB alone could cause all of this right?

I'm honestly at a loss and have literally read 50+ threads with people with my issue (with varying symptoms and solutions) and none of them seem to apply to me.

I'll post one of my 3rd gear pulls as soon as I get my logger out of my car in case it'll help. I no longer have my MBC hooked up for ease of diagnosis.

Idle is damn near perfect, very stable. Adjusting the BISS (albeit without grounding) has no affect on idle (don't know if that's pertinent). BISS screw is not leaking + I have the plug on it.


If ANY futher information is required then I'll be more than happy to provide it. My car has been slow for 95% of the time I've owned it and I'm tired of having to rev it out a ton just to be able to get around the city.

OH, before I forget I've also replaced my o2 sensor and I don't have an airfilter on my MAF because the HKS superflow is a shit design and I'm planning on going 2g MAF(MAS?)+3" intake soon. My exhaust is also quite gurgley between shifts and on deceleration in gear, and occasionally will pop.

EDIT: I also forgot to mention I've done a compression test: 155-160-155-160


Thanks.

 

[kottyking]

Just a thought, check your computer for leaky capacitors.

 

[juanpac0]

Been done, ECU looks fine.

Edit: Also unplugged the MAF while the car was idling and the idle got a lot worse, so I assume the MAF is working, but I'll check this week using a multimeter.

 

[kottyking]

Check your coil pack as well. I might have miss read but when was the last time you did plugs/wires?

 

[viperlp01]

What is your timing advance, what is your airflow readings as you car gains boost and gets higher in revs, what are your IDCs, o2 voltage at wot, those contribute to alot of power.

 

[juanpac0]

Check your coil pack as well. I might have miss read but when was the last time you did plugs/wires?

I do plugs every other oil change, BPR6ES gapped to 0.028, wires I have not changed yet but the car isn't breaking up at all, it's just not giving me any power.

John: Where can I check my MMCD for what you asked for? I was reviewing my log and noticed something strange. Even after I threw the new o2 sensor in the car the o2-F read from 2.55 to 2.81, shouldn't it be reading .1 to .95?

If I'm running voltage that high wouldn't my car be running rich like crazy? This is a BRAND new o2 sensor.

My MAF was reading anywhere from 805 to 1603Hz during the WOT pull, this mean anything?

Edit: I'm also not really pulling timing on either logs, I got 4 counts of knock max before the o2 sensor and 2 after (2 separate logs) but even at like 6,100 rpm I'm running 20* of timing with the MAF reading 1490.7Hz

 

[kottyking]

Yea that would be helpful if we could take a look at a log here.

 

[juanpac0]

I edited my post two posts up, any idea for the o2? Whats the easiest way to post an mmcd log?

 

[oldman420]

You have to click on the "go advanced" option below your post and attach it. Also check you knock sensors for the infamous goo.

 

[juanpac0]

You have to click on the "go advanced" option below your post and attach it. Also check you knock sensors for the infamous goo.

Thanks for the help, I'm going to work on transferring the 5 runs I logged today () up to give people an idea of whats happening. I actually hit 19psi on my boost gauge today before I let off for fear of fuel cut, and my buddy was in the passenger's seat logging my run and said my IDC was at like 82-84% @ 19psi, which is BS imo because anything over 16psi on stock injectors is not a good idea, but I'm also creeping like a mofo. I'll do my best to post up a log tomorrow though.

Turns out my logger was reading the wrong o2 voltage, for some reason my front (and only) o2 sensor was being read as O2-R, but even at WOT it's at about .74v, but all should be figured out once I post up the log. I have to admit though, nothing looked too out of place, but my MAF peaked at 1603.x HZ, is that normal for a stock 1g MAF?