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-an waterlines/fuel lines

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tbTalonES94

20+ Year Contributor
333
1
Jun 23, 2002
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Well I've searched around a lot and I just can't seam to find a certain answer and all in one thread about the fittings needed to make my turbo coolant lines -an braided/pushlock as well as replacing the stock fuel filter with a -6an style and running a -6an line to the rail. I know people do this all the time, and I would like to know the thread sizes for the following:

1g water-pipe fitting
mitsu center section coolant inlet/outlet
stock fuel supply line to stock fuel filter (should be adapter if running a new -6an filter)

Reason for doing this is obvious reliability of the -an fittings and lines, as well as easy removal/installation. And of course the added benefit of looking nice :dsm:

We all know the stock fuel filter is a big restriction, but no one really sells a "kit" to replace the stock fuel filter as well as include a -6an line to the rail. They just have the kit to replace the stock banjo bolt to the rail.

Could someone give me the sizes and maybe include pictures from their set-up or one they know of. This could turn into a nice how-to thread or atleast give some insight on the correct way to make some reliable coolant lines.

-Trevor
 
that is what I was talking about before...just replacing the banjo fitting. That still leaves the stock restrictive fuel filter. I am looking for the fitting below the fuel filter that would screw onto the stock fuel supply line, then into a -an style fuel filter. From there i would run -an style lines to the stock rail with the correct rail adapter.
 
Look in the "how to" articles for DSMtuners.

The way I did it, and what I feel is the best way, goes like this:

Fuel pump housing-AN adapter-AN line-Golan/Mr Gasket fuel filter-AN line-CNC fuel rail adapter.
 
I simply welded a -6AN bung on my thermostat housing (where the thermovalve once was) for my feed and another on my water pipe (was using an NT pipe so had to) and used 14mm x 1.5 to -6AN fittings for the turbo water jackets.

Check this thread for more on the water lines :dsm:
 
it would just be nice if a shop would set-up a nice kit to do it. Everyone has SS braided -4an oil feed lines, and everyone has the oil return lines with aeroquip fittings. I guess the water-lines weren't a big concern because everyone didn't have water-cooled center sections awhile go. With all the new turbo technology you'd think someone would come out with aeroquip water lines as well as oil lines.

Then everyone makes the fuel "feed" line from the fuel filter, but don't bother to include the option to upgrade the fuel filter. You'd think that would be common sense, but maybe it's just me WTF
 
I guess the water-lines weren't a big concern because everyone didn't have water-cooled center sections awhile go. With all the new turbo technology you'd think someone would come out with aeroquip water lines as well as oil lines
Agreed, but as you may know, all OEM DSM Turbos came water cooled and the majority of us nickle/dime DSM modders :coy: prefer to reuse (yes OEM water lines/banjos will work well with minor bending/tweeking) what they can before shelling out money for AN fittings ;).

FYI.. there are other options already out there for waterlines available at both ExtremePSI and Dejon Powerhouse for water lines :dsm:
 
If you mean the large banjo fittings with straight water lines that are required to be cut then ran regular hose.....yea I've used those already on my BB 50-trim. The lines become brittle unless you use high-dollar line anyway. Plus it's still banjo stuff :p

Some nice -an lines that look good, perform well, and last long would do the dsm well :thumb:
 
So a simple yet nice An/SS coolant line kit would include the following:

-14mm x 1.5 to -8AN fittings (2)
-16mm x 1.5 to -8AN fitting (1); or substitute for weld bung
-1/4" NPT to -8AN fitting (for therm. housing); or substitute with weld bung
-8AN 90* swivel fitting (2)
-8AN 45* swivel fitting (2)
-3-4 feet of -8AN SS braided line (or line of your choice)

I think that about sums it up. Now we just need part numbers and pictures :)


*edit* I think -8an would work better
 
Yea that would be what i'm looking for except i don't want the fuel rail, fpr, and line back to the tank...not ready for that just yet and i already have the rail, fpr and ss line to the fpr.
 
-6AN is plenty big for coolant lines. And BTW, the thermovalve fitting in the thermostat housing was 17mm x 1.5 of which there is no AN adapter for. I chose to install a weld bug but could have tapped it out to 18mm x 1.5 which is a std spark plug tap size ;)
 
18mm is a huge tap LOL, and i don't have access to an aluminum welder...otherwise i'd do the bung method.

Someone from the link you gave me earlier said they tapped it to a 1/4" NPT, which is still a big tap. As long as I can get a tap and the correct adapter i think i'm golden. -6an it is.
 
Well here's a little update. I got all the fittings and line i needed from Ryan at Import Evolution. He may be building a little kit soon, but it's not positive. Here are the pictures of the new fuel filter with -6an braided lines to the rail. This alone raised my fuel pressure 2psi and lowered the a/f .5 via AEM wideband. I will post pictures of the -6an water lines whenever i get around to putting them on. Anyways...here they are

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and the stock filter:

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let me know what you think.

-Trevor
 

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Looks good but have two comments:\
1.) Make sure you secure the filter to the firewall as I can see the OEM metal line getting stressed/pinched with the engine rocking back/forth or inadvertent contact.

2.) The filter looks to me like an Earls? If so note that for an EFI application, you need a 10micron filter. Earls makes only 35 and 85micron filters which would be a good pre-filter, but should not be used as the sole EFI filter.
 
It is secured to the firewall now, i just took the picture when i got it all bolted up for referance. I could definatly see the line getting pinched though!

Is there any reason why the 35micron filter won't be efficient enough? I searched around and people were saying as long as there is a filter before your fuel pump (it's attached as you know) then the 35micron filter should do just fine. The 85 micron filter you could see right through and actually see a screen, the 35micron filter you can't even see through. I could see having to clean this filter more often..but that was the point switching to -an set-up anyway.

Could you give me an insight on why you absolutly need 10micron? If it is necessary then i'll pick up one of those Golan filters. The reason I got an Earl's was because Ryan had them in stock and he couldn't get the Golan filters.
 
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