Aluminum driveshaft ? {merged 11-8] drive shaft shafts

[fourreGsixty3]

Im doing a bunch...its the Super Street/ Hot Rod U program, it is half theory, and half putting everything to real world fun. building engines, working on AT trans, and MT trans, electronic management with cars, fuel...prettyu much everything that will be needed...its a 66 week program. After your done this make sure you take lots of pics through out, and post a tech article.

Dustin

 

[Kingsstar]

I wish i could take pictures, but we are not allowed to have cameras at school.. I will figure a way to either take projects home or something.

fourreGsixty3- Im interested to hear your opinion on UTI, because i have heard good things and bad things about every tech school out there. Everyone seems to bash on Wyotech, but i have learned a heck of a lot since i have been here. You get out of it as much as you put in to it.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Yeah there's always people that have bad times at school, but what you give is what you get, but also some of them don't know what they are getting into. It does seem to be pretty demanding, but I like a challenge. Ill shoot you a PM on here when I get started, and my thoughts. Now back on topic, just talk with you teacher, and tell them you would like to just take a couple pics of this, so you can help other people in the DSM community.

Dustin

 

[DanThMan1983]

Dont forget to have it balanced

 

[Kingsstar]

Yea, i will definetly have it balanced. I cant wait to start building it... but i have to wait till next phase, so that will be a few more weeks.

 

[paul s]

Hey, I'm looking to get a aluminum 2piece driveshaft for my talon, just curious who has one and would there be any power gains/quicker spool up?. thanks

 

[Defiant]

It can't produce any power, but it will absorb less energy in spinning it up. About, what, ten pound's worth.
Nothing you'll feel nor measure.

 

[paul s]

thanks for the info.

 

[Turbo Monk3y]

Its design was not made for quicker spool up but rather the flexing properties. Steel flexes at like 4-5 degrees angle, while aluminum flexes at 18-20 degees allowing for absortion properties off the line... Instead of shock loading your transfercase or rear diff aluminum ones help absorb the shock for us AWD guys... But I'm almost positive you will feel a difference if you pay attention to how your car accelerates...Plus its 10lbs of rotating weight off your car. Did you notice a difference from switching from a stock flywheel to a Fidanza? Hell yea I know I did, thats pretty much how it should work..Thats just my opinion though.

 

[paul s]

As long as I would notice something, I hate to pay 700 for a part just to have it on the car.

 

[Dream On]

If I had nothing else left to do to the car, I'd probably do it.

 

[Elvenhome21]

its not only rotational weight, but rotational friction from having multiple carrier bearings.

 

[99gst_racer]

Hey, I'm looking to get a aluminum 2piece driveshaft for my talon, just curious who has one and would there be any power gains/quicker spool up?. thanks

If you don't mind me asking, who is producing a 2-piece driveshaft for 2G's? I've considered doing this fo a while now, but I couldn't justify $700......

its not only rotational weight, but rotational friction from having multiple carrier bearings.

Do you know anybody that is using a 1-piece driveshaft? I'm more curious to know if it's possible and if so, how it's set-up.

 

[Elvenhome21]

I highly doubt you could make a one piece work considering that its 74 1/2 inchs long, the longest I have ever seen in racing is a 54", but that is with 3/16 3.5" diameter aluminum with fiberboard/cardboard tube inside it for less deflection and to handle more torque. I personally think running two aluminum driveshaft would work great, run 2 36" driveshafts with one carrier bearing. A 50 in 3.5" 3/32 wall drive shaft only weighs 5 pounds, 4 of which are the yoke and u-joints. Thats what I run on the LLM and it can take 500 hp without a problem, I wouldn't drag race or do constant burnouts with it though.

 

[99gst_racer]

I highly doubt you could make a one piece work considering that its 74 1/2 inchs long, the longest I have ever seen in racing is a 54", but that is with 3/16 3.5" diameter aluminum with fiberboard/cardboard tube inside it for less deflection and to handle more torque. I personally think running two aluminum driveshaft would work great, run 2 36" driveshafts with one carrier bearing. A 50 in 3.5" 3/32 wall drive shaft only weighs 5 pounds, 4 of which are the yoke and u-joints. Thats what I run on the LLM and it can take 500 hp without a problem, I wouldn't drag race or do constant burnouts with it though.

Man, I never realized how long the driveshaft really is on our cars. Yeah, you're right. I just got off the phone with Coleman Machine and Patterson Driveshaft, and neither say it's possible. The longest 1-piece aluminum driveshaft they can do is around 64". Coleman said they don't build any with carrier bearings. And Patterson said they only built steel driveshafts with carrier bearings. They told me the components are not available to do a 2-piece aluminum with a carrier bearing.

Ohh well... Another random thought down the drain.

 

[Elvenhome21]

Its really not that hard to incorporate a carrier bearing in a aluminum driveshaft. ITs no different than steel except you run a aluminum drive shaft to not have to use a carrier bearing. I will look into it closer in a couple days, as to what combination will work for a carrier. BTW since you don't seem to mind calling around try quarter master they make drive shafts also.

 

[RipperXX]

"The Drive Shaft Shop" makes two piece alumenum drive shafts if im not mistaken. Also I read in many other posts on this forum that John Shep HAD a carbon fiber one piece drive shaft.

Maybe give him a call and find out who he had build it. But I would be it would cost you one HELL of a pretty penny.

Also as I understand it, theres a rule of thumb if you will that removeing 1lb of rotateing mass has the same effect on preformance as removeing 7lb, so that 10lb is 10 less static lb, with the effect of removeing 70. Which should translate in to close to .1 sec quicker in the 1/4 mile. Feel free to correct me if im wrong.


I myself am going to go with a alumenum two piece shaft once I get some spare change... god knows how long that will be with a kid on the way though

 

[TalonD27A]

"The Drive Shaft Shop" makes two piece alumenum drive shafts if im not mistaken. Also I read in many other posts on this forum that John Shep HAD a carbon fiber one piece drive shaft.

Maybe give him a call and find out who he had build it. But I would be it would cost you one HELL of a pretty penny.

Also as I understand it, theres a rule of thumb if you will that removeing 1lb of rotateing mass has the same effect on preformance as removeing 7lb, so that 10lb is 10 less static lb, with the effect of removeing 70. Which should translate in to close to .1 sec quicker in the 1/4 mile. Feel free to correct me if im wrong.


I myself am going to go with a alumenum two piece shaft once I get some spare change... god knows how long that will be with a kid on the way though

ACPT makes a 1piece carbon fiber/composite driveshaft. That is who makes the one in Sheps car if he is still using them. As for the cost I believe it is $1500-$2000, but that was a few years ago so it's hard to remember what the specific cost was. Either way the aluminum shaft is much cheaper and handles more than enough hp for most of us. The Driveshaft Shop driveshaft is a one piece aluminum shaft that eliminates the first carrier bearing leaving the second one in place with the back factory steel shaft connected to the diff making the entire driveshaft two pieces. It would be nice if they made the last shaft from aluminum, but usless they've changed something in the last 4months since I installed this one then this is the one they offer.

The pic is from a 2G

 

[delta448]

Also as I understand it, theres a rule of thumb if you will that removeing 1lb of rotateing mass has the same effect on preformance as removeing 7lb, so that 10lb is 10 less static lb, with the effect of removeing 70. Which should translate in to close to .1 sec quicker in the 1/4 mile. Feel free to correct me if im wrong.

I too have heard this before. Kind of the same mentality as lightweight or underdrive aluminum pulleys and lightened flywheels.

 

[Elvenhome21]

Originally Posted by RipperXX View Post
Also as I understand it, theres a rule of thumb if you will that removeing 1lb of rotateing mass has the same effect on preformance as removeing 7lb, so that 10lb is 10 less static lb, with the effect of removeing 70. Which should translate in to close to .1 sec quicker in the 1/4 mile. Feel free to correct me if im wrong.

That sounds close, I have always heard the 1-3-5 rule.

reduction = equal to
1 lb of rotational = 5 lbs of sprung weight
3lbs of unsprung weight = 5 lbs of sprung weight

 

[goodbye]

I'd be nervous about a one piece driveshaft in our cars. The pinion angle is off too much to compensate for with a one-piece, hence the two-pieces out there. I had a one-piece driveshaft that Brent Rau originally tried on his old AWD, but got rid of due to bad harmonics or something. Basically, it didn't work. The reason you'd want an aluminum driveshaft is to soften the blow to your rear axles and pumpkin. It absorbs shock much better than a stock driveshaft. If you need one, you'd know it by now.

 

[TalonD27A]

I'd be nervous about a one piece driveshaft in our cars. The pinion angle is off too much to compensate for with a one-piece, hence the two-pieces out there. I had a one-piece driveshaft that Brent Rau originally tried on his old AWD, but got rid of due to bad harmonics or something. Basically, it didn't work. The reason you'd want an aluminum driveshaft is to soften the blow to your rear axles and pumpkin. It absorbs shock much better than a stock driveshaft. If you need one, you'd know it by now.

ACPT claims that their 1 piece carbon shaft doesn't any problems and is attributed to the carbon fiber and its ability to flex more than the steel and aluminum shafts. I'm not sure myself since I run Driveshaft shops aluminum shaft on my car, but that is from them directly. I have installed their carbon shafts on a few 3000GT VR4's and those owners haven't complained about anything. I'm sure the angles are different but the 3000GT VR4's are very similar in design to our cars. Either way the benefits of the DSS aluminum make it worth getting over the ACPT carbon fiber shaft unless you have deep pockets.

 

[topstreet]

Steel flexes at like 4-5 degrees angle, while aluminum flexes at 18-20 degees allowing for absortion properties off the line...

I believe that you are reffering to carbon. I could be wrong, but the aluminum flexs much less than this. 8-12º range. That is one of the major reasons that I went with carbon.

I know you guys are talking about Aluminum but, for the record.. The one piece driveshafts can be done. Personally, I am running the 72 1/2" carbon which I believe is 3 1/2" OD. The anlges out of the rear end and t-case are very minor.

Jake

 

[MILITISINVICTUS]

I believe that you are reffering to carbon. I could be wrong, but the aluminum flexs much less than this. 8-12º range. That is one of the major reasons that I went with carbon.

I know you guys are talking about Aluminum but, for the record.. The one piece driveshafts can be done. Personally, I am running the 72 1/2" carbon which I believe is 3 1/2" OD. The anlges out of the rear end and t-case are very minor.

Jake

Do you recall roughly what you paid for yours?

 

[topstreet]

Mine was ACPT and it was $2050.oo after shipping.