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Already have dsmlink and shooting for over 450hp, what about gm maf-t?

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highintenzity4

15+ Year Contributor
221
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Apr 30, 2004
Mission, Texas
Im using the dsmlink for tuning, is the gm maf-t worth the buy to replace the stock 2gmas which is restrictive after 450hp? I heard the tuning on it isnt much but thats not what I want it for... If I get it, what do i do? Leave the a/f settings at zero? Should I still put what size of injectors I have or any other settings? Im a newbie to the gm maft and Ive used the search button but still have these q's... Thanks..
 
LOL.... forgive me.


AEM EMS.

Why would you add a piggy-back to a "semi-standalone" such as Link? Other than MoTeC or AEM, Link is about the best you can do. So, either leave it alone or buy a full stand-alone, however by how you speak it does not sound like you have the ability or skill to tune either or. But I am sure someone asking for 450whp is willing to spend a little extra, right? ;-)
 
If you get the gm maft (GM MAF + MAF Translator) use it in blow thru setup (gm maft between bov and throttle body) and have the settings at zero. Use DSMlink to tune your vehicle. Don't forget you need blow thru UICP (you can use your current hard UICP by just cutting them to proper lengths. Didn't check your profile to see what you have), remove stock MAS, get new air filter/intake pipe.
 
If you do get the MAFT setup, leave it at zero and let DSMLink compensate for injectors and everything else. However I have to warn you, a lot of people do not like their MAFT setups on the boards and seem to have a lot of problems with them.

As far as you hearing about problems with the 2g MAS after about 450 hp, DSMLink solves this problem by allowing you to switch over to a "fake mas" mode which uses extrapolated data either with or without a MAP sensor to adjust tuning variables. This effectively allows you to avoid overrunning the MAS. If you already have DSMLink, do a search on the forums about this and you'll find your answer, or Thomas will probably just answer it for you.
 
Ok i read about the fake maf but I dont have a clue about what to enter on the ve settings....maybe i should take my car somewhere... Does it take a dsmlink specialist to tune my car really well or any shop will do... I am a complete newbie to tuning... I would usually run safc2s in the past but its time to step up.. Thanks for the help...
 
highintenzity4 said:
Ok i read about the fake maf but I dont have a clue about what to enter on the ve settings....maybe i should take my car somewhere... Does it take a dsmlink specialist to tune my car really well or any shop will do... I am a complete newbie to tuning... I would usually run safc2s in the past but its time to step up.. Thanks for the help...

There is also a write up on how to calculate your car's actual VE at each given RPM point in either the tuning guide or the manual, or somewhere in the forum.
 
this is what you need to do is keep the 2g mas and turn up the boost and get a log of your pass and post it on the link forum and we will help you make the changes we all see fit. So be for you go out and spend the money on the GM,UICP,and such just post a log and go from there.

:dsm:
 
2gGSX said:
There is also a write up on how to calculate your car's actual VE at each given RPM point in either the tuning guide or the manual, or somewhere in the forum.
This is from the manual:

"To calculate a more precise VE table for your particular setup, first make sure you’re
running a boost level low enough to keep MAF Hz below your target clamp point
(probably around 2700hz on a 2G MAF and 2100hz on a 1G MAF). Then deselect Fake
MAF, drop your clamp point to some low value like 500hz, and log both MAFComp and
MAFSD. MAFComp is the MAF sensor reading after compensations have been applied
to it from the MAF Compensation table. MAFSD is MAFComp after VE adjustments
have been applied (as well as factoring in pressure if you have Use MAP selected). Both
of these are calculated even when they’re not being used. Adjust the VE table until
MAFSD replicates MAFComp. This process will effectively map out the volumetric
efficiency of your setup."
 
Stapl3 said:
2g mas can go furthur than 450hp. Try to get there first with link and then worry about your mas.

Now what would be the point of that? :D
 
matt97gst said:
I'd wait until DSMlink allows you to use the MAF so you don't have to buy the translator.

What he said... Until then... just work with what you got... when it becomes your weak point then upgrade... But if you don't have CAMs, then I doubt your engine is taking in enough air to out flow your MAF...
 
I'm going to go against the grain on this one: When and if you do get a maft, I would zero out dsmlink first, get a rough tune with the maft and THEN go back and use link for the fine adjustments. My friend had his zero'd out with his link and his car ran a little rich no matter how we tuned. I also had the same problem with my afc/maft combo.

I haven't had a problem with my maft and actually really like it!!! Car runs much better with it in blow through. Idle it better but you have that function in link.

JUST TO WARN YOU: Depending on how you route your intake pipe with the maft, if you route it into the fend and low, if you suck up water, go through a car wash, or drive on a rainy day, the slightest bit of water will make it run like @$$. Make sure that if you do route to the stock sidemount location that it doesn't hang extremely low.

If you are shooting for serious HP numbers........you soon realize that aem is the way to go. With piggybacks you add and take away fuel. With aem, you have a complete control of load based tuning. Ever wonder why you have zero knock in third, but knock in fourth?? Thats the limitation of a piggyback.
 
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