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Alot of Problems

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NativeEclipse

Probationary Member
7
0
Apr 13, 2009
Gardnerville, Nevada
I have ZERO oil pressure. My aftermarket boost gauge only goes up to 5 PSi @ 6000 RPM. Sounds like my cat is bad (bad rattle and vibration coming from cat at 3500 + RPMS). Turbo is making a high pitched noise @ idle, turbo manifold gasket looks toast.

I did how ever advance the CPS to fully clockwise and turned the idle to 1000 and its running great. The car does sound like something is pouring on the ground when i turn the car off but i dont see any fluids. Very minimal smoke @ high rpm rev(6000-6500) at back of intake manifold and exhaust manifold.

In need of a drastic over haul. Any suggestions? The head on the motor has 40,000 and the block has around 100,000. The head gasket looks great no leaks. The intake manifold gasket looks great.
 
ZERO as in the gauge is reading zero or ZERO as in both the GAUGE reads zero and dummy light are on? IF your gauge is reading zero get out of your car and stick your head right under your driver side headlight. Theres a single wire running to the oil pressure sending unit. Usually they come unplugged. See if its plugged in. Jack up the car and see if your heat shield is rattling. Or drog the cat and see if you can see through the honeycomb. If you ademate about getting this stuff fixed use your Head not your muscles theres tons of info on this site if you just use the "search" function. :thumb:
 
And note that there are two pressure sending units on the oil filter housing. One is for the gauge, the other is for the idiot light. I forget which of the two has a simple spade connector that falls off many of our cars, but it's the one that points toward the back of the car and toward the ground. Dropping the cat might be impossible without dropping the whole exhaust from O2 housing to muffler (actually that's not too bad). I got my stock exhaust apart, but it was off the car in the middle of the garage, and I was using a wrench+sledge hammer (not kidding) and even then it was hard. PB Blaster only goes so far on 13-year-old rusted exhaust bolts.

As for the turbo, pull the intake pipe off the compressor inlet (cool motor), reach in and grab the nut at the center of the compressor wheel and see if it wiggles in/out and if it wiggles side/side/up/down. And see if it spins freely. *Any* in/out is bad, some is horrible, and a lot is a sign that the CHRA is already grenaded. Side/side/up/down is normal as long as it isn't excessive and doesn't hit the compressor housing. My guess is that the turbo is a week or so from grenading, and when it does, you will be stranded and will get to clean oil out of your intake tract, bearing pieces out of your oil pan, and then swap the turbo. If the turbo check shows signs of excessive wear, I'd park the car and consider what turbo you want to upgrade to or perhaps a rebuild of that turbo (good rebuild kits on ebay are $80 for a T25, and VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions has a turbo rebuild article). If you drive the turbo into the ground and the thrust bearing grenades, you cannot rebuild it and all but the compressor and turbine housings are just oily paper weights.
 
Before everypost i use the search button. But none of it straight to the point. All of it is beating around the bush and most of them are not even solved. But i have check the sending unit i have checked the cat and its toast. My gauge in the car reads 0. My OEM boost gauge reads 7PSI when i boost and my After markets reads 5 psi. Is there a way i can hook the gauge right to the BC (boost controller) and get a good reading? The BC is OEM.
 
Where is your aftermarket boost gauge tapped into now? As long as its getting manifold pressure, I don't see the point of moving it. The stock boost gauge is more or less worthless - it isn't accurate, and is just an ECU estimate, not a true measurement.

Did you read kenamond's post and check your turbo shaft play? How do you know the cat is bad?
 
Pressure Switch Unplugged (fixed) now have oil pressure.
Turbo boost possible boost leak in gauge line. ZERO shaft play and i mean ZERO.
I looked at exhaust gaskets and just about all of them from head back are toasted.(alot of exhaust leak) - Could be the reason to PSI loss and shitty run
 
I have ZERO oil pressure. My aftermarket boost gauge only goes up to 5 PSi @ 6000 RPM. Sounds like my cat is bad (bad rattle and vibration coming from cat at 3500 + RPMS). Turbo is making a high pitched noise @ idle, turbo manifold gasket looks toast.

I did how ever advance the CPS to fully clockwise and turned the idle to 1000 and its running great. The car does sound like something is pouring on the ground when i turn the car off but i dont see any fluids. Very minimal smoke @ high rpm rev(6000-6500) at back of intake manifold and exhaust manifold.

In need of a drastic over haul. Any suggestions? The head on the motor has 40,000 and the block has around 100,000. The head gasket looks great no leaks. The intake manifold gasket looks great.

What car is this again? I always assume people are referring to their car listed on their avatar but yours shows a 2g. And unless you did a six bolt swap then you shouldnt have a CAS
 
Sounds like my cat is bad (bad rattle and vibration coming from cat at 3500 + RPMS).

Is it doing this while you're driving? I had the same issue - it ended with my Transfer Case grenading on the highway. My only symptom I had was a bad vibration under the shift knob around 2000-3000RPM (mine was in the same area as the cat). After closer inspection, I had fluid leakage coming from the yolk. You might want to inspect your fluid level just to cover your bases, as well as inspect your tcase seals.
Transfer Case Leak
Edit: Nevermind - I just saw your not AWD. Sorry! :D
 
Cut the cat off, could be clogged to hell.
If you are getting smoke around the exh manifold most likely there is grease buildup thus causing the heat to dissipate it, get the motor cleaned up, it makes finding leaks a hell of a lot easier.
 
What car is this again? I always assume people are referring to their car listed on their avatar but yours shows a 2g. And unless you did a six bolt swap then you shouldnt have a CAS

All DSMs have a CAS. 1g's are adjustable and off the end of the intake cam. 2ga's is located near the cam gear and is nonadjustable. 2gb's located back at the end of the intake cam but it's nonadjustable.
 
All DSMs have a CAS. 1g's are adjustable and off the end of the intake cam. 2ga's is located near the cam gear and is nonadjustable. 2gb's located back at the end of the intake cam but it's nonadjustable.

sorry for not clarifying mr smart guy he said he turned it clockwise. The 2gs are under the timing cover and cant be adjusted. :tease:
 
Sorry my buddy started this thread for me. Its my 1G 1990 TSI AWD. Transfer case huh? That scares me. If i rev my car to 3500+ while in neutral sitting at a stop there is a really loud vibration coming from the cat area. There is some fluids coming from the Transmission Transfer case area but its nothing major. My exhaust does look really rusted and shot tho. My first step is to get the exhaust to open a little. If i have to ill cat delete and Muffler delete once i get it registered. I was thinking Straight 3" pipe. Nothing special just have an exhaust shop do it from the Down pipe back. Then im going to do my Stage 0 upgrades. I got half of stage 1 already just need to put on.
 
Sorry my buddy started this thread for me. Its my 1G 1990 TSI AWD. Transfer case huh? That scares me. If i rev my car to 3500+ while in neutral sitting at a stop there is a really loud vibration coming from the cat area. There is some fluids coming from the Transmission Transfer case area but its nothing major. My exhaust does look really rusted and shot tho. My first step is to get the exhaust to open a little. If i have to ill cat delete and Muffler delete once i get it registered. I was thinking Straight 3" pipe. Nothing special just have an exhaust shop do it from the Down pipe back. Then im going to do my Stage 0 upgrades. I got half of stage 1 already just need to put on.

It won't make any noises in neutral since it's not turning. It could be a heat shield loose. Heck, it could be your tbelt cover resonating. They get LOUD if they get loose, and they start rattling around 3K. Regardless of what it is, you still need to check your transfer case just to CYOA. You have every right to be scared though - people have had their wheels lock up on the highway when theirs ran out of fluid... I am thankful that mine snapped in half instead. As far as your exhaust, a straight 3" from the shop will do her just fine - no need to get fanciful on your exhaust unless you want to. There's been a great many people on here that have had terrific luck with eBay exhaust too - do some research before you dive in. Save the money and put it into some meaningful mods.
 
2ga CAS is under the cam gear. 2gb CAS is on the passenger side end of the intake cam. Neither is adjustable.

Do that boost leak test.

It's not very hard to replace the turbo/mani or mani/head gasket. If you have pre-turbo exhaust leaks, fix them, replace the turbo/mani bolts and gasket, mani/head gasket, and mani/head studs/nuts.

If you do a catless, mufflerless 3" exhaust, you'll likely go insane. It'll be very loud, and your ass will pucker every time you see a police car. An in-line 15"x5" round muffler where the cat used to be and a muffler at the end will make worlds of difference. Both can be straight-through mufflers. Most assembled units come with two additional resonators as well.

I'd do basic maintenance before you put any mod money into the car. Compession test, boost test, get/build a logger, etc. Fix stuff first.

Welcome to the money pit.:)
 
sorry for not clarifying mr smart guy he said he turned it clockwise. The 2gs are under the timing cover and cant be adjusted. :tease:

If you're going to post the vague/wrong info and have an attitude about it, that speaks volume about your personality. FAIL. :rolleyes: Fix your sentences by the way. They fail as much as "YOUR" attitude.
 
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