help me with my 2g turbo with alot of problems

[noobie97]

ok 1st off i got the car it was all messed up it would start but would not rev up found that the SAFC Mass air flow wire was not hooked up now FIXED but i took the SAFC off the car now it started to run better but was like it was flooding out at around 4k rpms turning the back of the car black ok so i turned the cam sensor all the way clockwise to get it to run half way good now it is starting to smoke after a min or so and now it still acts like it floods and cuts out at about 5500 rpms or when it starts boosting high this car has the 6 bolt swap so i know the wiring to the crank sensor and cam sensors are together now and im sure it has boost leak where would u start can the timing be off make all the problems or where do i need to start

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

Well, did you ground your timing connectors before playing with the CAS? Did you use a timing light to make sure your set properly. And yes boost leak checks are always a good place to start.

 

[noobie97]

umm no i didnt know or know how to ground the cas but i was thinking it worked the same as a dizzy on a honda or like that i didnt take it off i just loosened the nuts and turned it and i didnt set the timing i know its a hard job to pull the timing belt i was just making sure that was the problem before i do that and i do need to do a boost leak and what is the best way check the turbo oil seals

oh and i replaced the mass air flow sensor with a 02 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE (338 code) do i need to put the other back on its a 2G DSM Talon Mass Air Flow Sensor

 

[boostjnkee]

Dude, my best advice is to get dsmlink and have it tuned. I don't want to get on here next week and see "6bolt knocking sound please help". When messing with timing, fuel, you should have it tuned right. Just my .02, good luck

 

[zcoh2gdsm]

remove the turbo inlet and check the turbo for shaft play, that's how you'll know if your seals are bad.

 

[noobie97]

i know that bro but i cant take it and have it tuned when the timing or whatever it is thats wrong with it till i fix it the way it is it wouldnt make the 1st dyno pull just seeing what i need to do 1st i know i need to hook the SAFC back up but does anyone think the timing could be off a tooth or so making it do what it is doing and making it smoke

ok then i know it has no shaft play at all the motor was just rebuilt not long ago maybe 3 months ago

 

[zcoh2gdsm]

what color smoke is it? when does it happen? did you check your fluid levels?

 

[noobie97]

im guessing its gray smoke and it does it setting at a idle for a few mins then i give it gas a puff a smoke comes out but clears up yes i have had to add about 2 quarts of oil

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

umm no i didnt know or know how to ground the cas but i was thinking it worked the same as a dizzy on a honda or like that i didnt take it off i just loosened the nuts and turned it and i didnt set the timing i know its a hard job to pull the timing belt i was just making sure that was the problem before i do that and i do need to do a boost leak and what is the best way check the turbo oil seals

oh and i replaced the mass air flow sensor with a 02 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE (338 code) do i need to put the other back on its a 2G DSM Talon Mass Air Flow Sensor

Yes, it needs to be grounded and a timing light needs to be used.

Like a Honda

and please use the OEM MAFWTF

 

[noobie97]

ok ill do that would the timing cause it to smoke or is that the valve seals

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

Timing can cause rich smoke black/gray. valve seals will cause blue smoke among many other things.

 

[mchustle]

Ok first of all if it had a safc and you removed it and started running rich (black/grey smoke), I would check the injectors because it sounds like it may have bigger than stock and throwing to much fuel. Another thing that could cause this is if you have a bigger fuel pump and the stock fpr is being over ran or if you have a Afpr make sure the base pressure is set right. Also now your ignition timing is way off because you messed with the cas without grounding the timing connector. Dsm rule #1 "it is NOT a Honda so don't use the Honda kid methods" . I would get link if you can afford it, if not use the crappy, IMO, safc back in and get a solid safe base tune after you get a timing light and adjust the cas correctly with the timing connector grounded. Since it is a 97 according to you profile I'm not sure how you can ground the connector without dsmlink, but I'm sure there is a way if you search.

 

[noobie97]

ok thats cool thanks man i have never worked on dsm i have always worked and built hondas but i will find out how to do it and yes it has 440 rc injectors and a fuel pump but im not sure of what it is it has a adjustable fuel regulator i have turned it down and i have a fuel gauge under the hood at idle it says it has 56psi of fuel and i hate to ask but what is a dsmlink is that a stand along management system and what would make it have boost lag it takes along time to boost up most i have got it to boost is like 17psi it has the g20 evo turbo i think would that be a boost leak or timing and thanks alot

 

[mchustle]

ok thats cool thanks man i have never worked on dsm i have always worked and built hondas but i will find out how to do it and yes it has 440 rc injectors and a fuel pump but im not sure of what it is it has a adjustable fuel regulator i have turned it down and i have a fuel gauge under the hood at idle it says it has 56psi of fuel and i hate to ask but what is a dsmlink is that a stand along management system and what would make it have boost lag it takes along time to boost up most i have got it to boost is like 17psi it has the g20 evo turbo i think would that be a boost leak or timing and thanks alot

Ok not sure why it has 440cc when 450cc is stock, but that's beside the point. Base fuel pressure should be ~43.5 with the vacuum line removed from the afpr. Since you were into hondas I will compare dsmlink to chrome, just much better. Boost lag could be a number of things but I wouldn't be driving it until you made sure the cas is adjusted right. If it is a evo turbo it's probably a 16g. Get the cas right, base fuel pressure and all your sensors like iac and tps. Set up idle and do a boost leak test. The number one thing I can tell you is research, research, and then research some more. This site has every question either answered or has someone that can. Also check out vfaq.com it has a lot of info.

 

[noobie97]

ok thanks ill look in to the injectors and the turbo and make sure thanks again man your the man

 

[noobie97]

what is the afpr

i turned the fuel pressure Regulator 7 full turns clockwise was thinking that was turning it down was told that doing that opened it to put more fuel and was told if i got the base fuel right i could back the CAS back to the right place and it will run like it should is this true and u was right i have 550 rc injectors and still not sure about the turbo

 

[Anubis_4_99]

Please learn to use punctuation and grammar, your run on sentences make my head hurt.

AFPR is Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Also until you figure all of your issues out, and get proper fuel management, i would avoid running anything over stock boost levels so you dont mess up your motor. And i would also run a compression test considering you say the motor was rebuilt, and you've had to add 2QTS of oil already. Thats not good. Also the motor being rebuilt has nothing to do with shaft play of the turbo unless it was rebuilt at the same time.

 

[TCtitan]

He never said if he fixed his boost leak or not, also why would you upgrade your fuel system and downgrade to smaller injectors?

 

[delta448]

what is the afpr

i turned the fuel pressure Regulator 7 full turns clockwise was thinking that was turning it down was told that doing that opened it to put more fuel and was told if i got the base fuel right i could back the CAS back to the right place and it will run like it should is this true and u was right i have 550 rc injectors and still not sure about the turbo

Just stop. You can't start turning knobs and flipping switches without knowing what is happening when you do.

First, reinstall the 2G MAS.
Second, take another look at the injectors.
Third, buy a timing light.
Fourth, buy a fuel pressure gauge.

To adjust fuel pressure at the AFPR you need a fuel pressure gauge installed.
To adjust base ignition timing on a 97, you need an inductive timing light and OBD2 tool. You don't just turn either of those and then say "oh it's running better here". The ECU can only add or subtract the fuel trim limits in closed-loop, and doesn't even touch the fueling in open loop. The knock sensor can only tell the ECU to retard until it hits the pre-programmed limit. If the CAS is adjusted such that the max retarded timing still knocks, or if the fuel pressure is such that the ECU can't keep it from going too lean and hot or overly rich and fuel-washing the cylinder bores, then say goodbye to your engine.

You don't have 440cc injectors unless the previous owner was seriously retarded.

Frankly, this whole thread smells an awful lot like a troll.

This site has a very nice search feature. If you're seriously this far in the dark, you need to figure out how to use it.

 

[noobie97]

ok thank man i think and it dont have 440s it has 550 and i do have a fuel gauge and yes i did fix the boost leak and sry for the grammar just in a hurry and thanks i think i will take it from here bc i guess i am that far in the dark thanks anyways

 

[prdsmracer03]

DSMlink/ECMlink is more like hondata. It's basically awesome.

 

[delta448]

i guess i am that far in the dark

Then I will try to help.

Boost leaks fixed, -good.
Pull the vacuum line off the AFPR and set the fuel pressure as close to 43.5psi as you can get it, then reconnect the vac line to it.

Setting base timing on a 2Gb (97+) with a 1G CAS:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/356741-2g-base-ignition-timing.html#post152061452

The 2Gb ECU assumes you have the ignition (cam angle) signal properly in sync with the actual delivered spark timing, since the 2Gb CAS is not adjustable and (in theory) always gives the right trigger offset to the 2Gb ECU.
If the 2G ECU sees a CAS signal mismatch with respect to the position of the 2G CPS it won't run the engine, kind of like a halfass factory failsafe for a broken T-belt.
If you have swapped to a 1G CAS, your ECU won't see an incorrect offset compared to the CPS when you change the CAS position (since you're now changing both signals at the same time by the same amount) and will still try to run the engine with the adjusted base timing, whether it's correctly set or not.

Your options?

1. Swap back to a 2Gb CAS and CPS
2. Buy an expensive MUT scan tool that can hold ECU commanded ignition timing constant
3. Buy ECMLink and use the checkbox to hold the ignition signal at 5* BTDC

Fixing your very rich condition with the SAFC:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/366004-safc-tuning-how-why.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/105569-how-safc-works.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/58403-definitive-piggyback-tuning-guide.html

I know, that's a lot of stuff to read. But it's all well written and will give you a good start on fixing your issues. You'll like this car a whole lot more once you have it running right.

In a nutshell, you must use something to compensate for the additional fuel that the larger injectors are throwing in. Since you already have an SAFC, that's probably the easiest for you to use right now, unless you were already planning on using ECMLink later on.

Do you have a wideband sensor? How about a datalogger to use with the SAFC?

 

[noobie97]

thank u man, that is what i was asking, u r the man, i will start on it this weekend and i will let u know how it turns out