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air / fuel

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Make sure under the settings "target idle" is set to 14.7

Make sure fuel settings are correct too ( injector size, dead time)

If those are good, that should fix it, it's slightly rich.

But that's as much as I know, I'm new to tuning, but those are things to check first before anything further. That's all I have adjusted for mine and I sit right at 14.7 on my aem wideband.

Goodluck!
 
This is something I don't understand. You payed $500+ for a tool that you have no clue how to use (unless it came with the car). You need to start with the basics. Read, read, read the ECMTuning wiki.. Get on their forum and learn to basics of manipulating parameters in the ECU.

start [ECMTuning - wiki]
 
Ecmlink has setup videos on how to base tune. and they also have a wikki . Make sure to watch all the videos.
 
watched the videos and ive read, and ive talked to tom from ecmtuning.

this is at idle and ive went through the set up and put correct injectors in etc.

the wide band is in the correct ecu pin aslo.

just at idle the wb reads 12.3 i was simply asking how to adjust this to 14.7
 
This is something I don't understand. You payed $500+ for a tool that you have no clue how to use (unless it came with the car). You need to start with the basics. Read, read, read the ECMTuning wiki.. Get on their forum and learn to basics of manipulating parameters in the ECU.

start [ECMTuning - wiki]

While true, not everyone learns that way. I bought it without knowing how to use it. It's not that difficult to learn and for some people, like myself, HANDS ON is the best way to learn. I just made sure, that before I made a change to a parameter, I knew exactly what that change would do.

You can read about how to weld, or draw, or play basketball, but with out hands on practice, all that reading is useless.

OP, what is reading 12.3? The wideband gauge? or the logged value in DSMLink? or both?
 
While true, not everyone learns that way. I bought it without knowing how to use it. It's not that difficult to learn and for some people, like myself, HANDS ON is the best way to learn. I just made sure, that before I made a change to a parameter, I knew exactly what that change would do.

You can read about how to weld, or draw, or play basketball, but with out hands on practice, all that reading is useless.

OP, what is reading 12.3? The wideband gauge? or the logged value in DSMLink? or both?

It's just sad :toobad: ... Before people jump the gun on purchasing link, they should have the software downloaded and viewing other user's logs on their own pc (which I think is great). There are tons of threads where Snoboarder (for instance) changes a few parameters and has the OP post back with results. It's not hard to follow along. I've never dabbled on the dsmlink forums, but I'm sure the support through wiki's and how-to's is pretty extensive.

To the OP: If you seriously watched all of the videos, read all of the material in the wiki, used the search function on dsmtuners and the link forums, talked to Tom, and STILL are wondering what to change to dial in idle AFR's... then maybe link isn't for you. ....[end rant] so if you want to get somwhere, post a log. It's hard to tell what your problems are through broken english.
 
It's just sad :toobad: ... Before people jump the gun on purchasing link, they should have the software downloaded and viewing other user's logs on their own pc (which I think is great). There are tons of threads where Snoboarder (for instance) changes a few parameters and has the OP post back with results. It's not hard to follow along. I've never dabbled on the dsmlink forums, but I'm sure the support through wiki's and how-to's is pretty extensive.

To the OP: If you seriously watched all of the videos, read all of the material in the wiki, used the search function on dsmtuners and the link forums, talked to Tom, and STILL are wondering what to change to dial in idle AFR's... then maybe link isn't for you. ....[end rant] so if you want to get somwhere, post a log. It's hard to tell what your problems are through broken english.

Relax dude, let him learn the way he wants. It is his money/car after all.
Everyone is new to everything at some point, so please, give the guy a break.
 
i didnt talk to Tom about my idle issue i talked to him about the set up, so im assuming that its set up correctly, and yes i did read and watched the videos im not good with computers, hence why i asked the forums, so i could get answers from people that may have had the same problems as me or that no more about the link then i do. your a dick dustin get the off the thread if your not going to help. thank you to those of you that are trying to help.

sorry for not being clear, i have ecmlink v3, watched the videos and emailed back and forth with tom from ecmtuning during my initial setup. global fuel and injectors are entered correctly.

i set up my wideband in the rear o2 bung, put the white wire to the correct pin and taped off the old white wire that was the rear o2

at idle my o2 sensor reads 12.3

this is my second dsm i bought it and it wouldnt start, ended up being clogged injectors, redoing the whole fuel system ( off of my previous dsm )

could bad gas or anything in that ball park cause the wb to only read 12.3

another issue is it is set to idle at 1000 but bounces for 1000 to 1500 and if i give it WOT it will drop to 800 sometimes as low as 500 after i let go of the gas?

once again thanks to the guys trying to help
 
I'm willing to help if you'd post a simple datalog. We have no clue if you have everything set-up correctly in link. Doing some searching on AEM widebands and dsmlink, would show that you need to have the correct AEM wideband selected for the rear o2 pin assignment.

If you have done this correctly, the logged value through the rear o2 (named whatever you want through the ECU Inputs tab) should match the gauge you have installed in the car. Also make sure you have the check box checked that says "Lock rear o2 voltage" on the ECU Inputs tab. Have you made it this far yet?

You need to fill out your profile with any modifications that are done to the car. Things like what MAF sensor and what injectors are on the car are some initial questions I have. Get the car idling half decent and pull a log. Also, please use proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation/capitalization. It helps everyone.
 
+3 on the logs. The more info you can give us, the more help we can offer.

Things that we need clarification on:

**Have you done a boost leak test?**
1. Have you verified that your throttle plate is opening all the way
2. Have you verified that with the throttle plate fully closed, you are seeing .63volts from the TPS?
3. Have you verified that with the throttle plate fully open, you are seeing 5.00volts at the TPS?
4. Is your ISC position ~30 @ full operating temp with radio, lights, fans (engine and cabin), and air conditioning off?
5. What MAF are you running? Stock? EVO? GM? SD?
6. What Fuel pump do you have? Stock? 190? 255?
7. Are you running an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?
8. Can you verify your base fuel pressure?
9. Did you get your get your AirFlowPerRev at around .25?
10. Did you get your CombinedFT at around 0%?
11. What plugs are you running? What are they gapped to?

I will ask again. Are you reading the 12.3 A/F on the wideband GAUGE, or are you reading it in DSMLink. There can be a big discrepancy between the two. If you don't have guage to verify A/F you might just have the wrong WBO2 selected in DSMLink. For example, I have an AEM UEGO with the AEM guage. I had the wrong AEM sensor selected in DSMLink, causeing it to read incorrectly. My AEM gauge read 14.7ish while DSMLink read about 16.Xish. I switched the logged value to AEMWIDEBANDR1 and all was well.

Bad gas shouldn't cause a rich condition
Also, your idle issues sound like you might have an out of wack ISC sensor (see item 4) or your ISC might be dead. There is a pretty easy test to verify ISC operation here on tuners. Just search for it and you should be able to find it.

Some of the things I listed have nothing to do with your problem at hand. But from personal expirence, I would NEVER start tuning, or try to drive the car much with out those items addressed. Some of them are minor fixes that might not even be noticeable, and some will be a night and day difference as to how well the car runs.

Get the basics down first. Get the car to idle right, with no misses, or back fires. Pick a target idle speed you want and get it to run properly at that speed. You have to crawl before you can run.

I hope this helps some.
 
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