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2G Aimco clutch XTD Racing Stage 4

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Bryan2004

Probationary Member
18
1
Jun 21, 2004
Spangenberg, Europe
Hi, it's me again - from Germany!
I'm sorry to ask (but I am not aware of your detailed keyword search).
Just would like to know if anyone of you has experience with the Aimco Stage 4 clutch and flywheel (found on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=190042930953&ih=009&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=190042349362&ih=009&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

I was just wondering if I could use this clutch without big problems on my Eclipse 2G with Turbo (around 350hp - maybe more)?
Thanks for answer
Bryan
 
Bryan2004 said:
Hi, it's me again - from Germany!
I'm sorry to ask (but I am not aware of your detailed keyword search).
Just would like to know if anyone of you has experience with the Aimco Stage 4 clutch and flywheel (found on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=190042930953&ih=009&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=190042349362&ih=009&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

I was just wondering if I could use this clutch without big problems on my Eclipse 2G with Turbo (around 350hp - maybe more)?
Thanks for answer
Bryan

I run it on my 1g and pedal pressure is better than 2600(as in not as hard to engage) and even being unsprung doesn't engage as harsh as you would think. In my opinion in the same league as the xs fmic kits when it comes to steals
 
I have the f1 clutch stage 3 and it holds great.

It was sipping when i first got it. But after the break in it holds to 21 psi on a 14b just fine.
 
dnelsontsiawd said:
I have the f1 clutch stage 3 and it holds great.

It was sipping when i first got it. But after the break in it holds to 21 psi on a 14b just fine.

I'M not downing F1 or that clutch as I have a F! flywheel that works great but 20psi on a 14b is nothing the stage 4 xtd is rated to 500whp that's 20psi on something t67 size.
 
So far my xtd stg 4 is holding just fine on my t70. It took me a day or two to get used to the somewhat harsh engagement.
 
Thats quite a beefy pressure plate there too,ductile iron(some oem piston rings are made out of that stuff),heat treated fingers too,and that sinistered iron disk is about the highest HP rated material for a disk as it can get.

I run one of their cerametallic six puck's on my nissan 240sx with an SR20DET,definantly recommended to run it I say.
 
Don't know if you're still wondering about this clutch, but I have it and like it. I got the stage 4, but had them send the stage 3 disc (it's sprung). A good 4,000 miles and plenty of hard launches and it holds perfectly. Engagement is a little chattery if you're lazy at stop lights.
 
Don't know if you're still wondering about this clutch, but I have it and like it. I got the stage 4, but had them send the stage 3 disc (it's sprung). A good 4,000 miles and plenty of hard launches and it holds perfectly. Engagement is a little chattery if you're lazy at stop lights.


you don't have a stage 3 then cause I have owned both and they're both 6 puck unsprung disk. I even had them next to each other before I sold the stage 3 they are pretty much the same. It's the prssure plate that is diffrent.
 
you don't have a stage 3 then cause I have owned both and they're both 6 puck unsprung disk. I even had them next to each other before I sold the stage 3 they are pretty much the same. It's the prssure plate that is diffrent.


i talked to someone named "jim" when i ordered mine yesterday, i asked if he could include the stage 3 sprung disk with my stage 4 pressure plate and he said ok... maybe they made a mistake when they sent your disk?
 
i talked to someone named "jim" when i ordered mine yesterday, i asked if he could include the stage 3 sprung disk with my stage 4 pressure plate and he said ok... maybe they made a mistake when they sent your disk?

Nvm they are sprung. I just checked an auction I didn't really use the stage 3 for long but I could have sworn it was unsprung. Thye both feel the same when it comes to engaging so It doesn't matter to me.
 
slippi...did you shim your pivot ball, or run an extended slave rod with your xtd clutch?
Im running about 450hp on my awd 1g. do you recommend the stage 3 or 4?
 
Hi! I have bought the clutch now and installed it yesterday.
Installation without any problems (used the alignment tool) - just replaced all the parts stated in the auction links (on top of the thread).
After that we bleeded the clutch (push the pedal 3 times, hold it, open the screw, close the screw, and push the pedal again) - during this refilled the master cylinder with fluid - did that until no bubbles came out.
There is a hard point on pushing the clutch (but it is very close to the bottom.
Tried to go for a test drive - engine started but I couldn't engage a gear.
Do you have any idea what this could be? Or any idea how to fix the problem and get the car to drive?
Thanks for your help!
 
Well I recently learned in my own trials of clutch installation that over "disengaging" a clutch can cause it to no longer physically disengage from the disc. Put one wheel in the air and one on the ground. Put the transmission in gear. Have a buddy push the clutch pedal while you try to turn the wheel in the air. If you can turn it any point while your buddy is pushing down the pedal, it is causing the pressure plate to travel too far and you need to back off the master cylinder rod. If you can never turn the wheel then maybe you need to adjust the master cylinder rod out some to further disengage the clutch. Good luck.
bob
 
Put the transmission in gear.

What do you mean with that? I have tried to put the first gear in (or any other) but it didn't work.
 
Someone here in Germany asked me about the fork - can this be the problem that I can't put any gear in?
 
The car should be turned off. Then put the car in any gear. If it doesn't do this something besides the clutch is wrong. The do the whole try to spin the wheel thing. The master cylinder rod is under the dash and connected to your clutch pedal arm with a big c bracket. From what I understand with just about any clutch change you need to adjust the master cylinder rod.

http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/clutch_adj.html shows a pic from a '90 but the bracket and rod look the same.
 
The car should be turned off. Then put the car in any gear. If it doesn't do this something besides the clutch is wrong. The do the whole try to spin the wheel thing. The master cylinder rod is under the dash and connected to your clutch pedal arm with a big c bracket. From what I understand with just about any clutch change you need to adjust the master cylinder rod.

http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/clutch_adj.html shows a pic from a '90 but the bracket and rod look the same.


No all you have to do is readjust the clutch pedal engagement point.
 
Just had a look at the whole thing again and found out that the clutch release fork is touching the transaxle body on pushing the pedal.

And without pushing the pedal it is very close to the body.

Everything installed correctly! Can you help me how to solve this problem?
 
No all you have to do is readjust the clutch pedal engagement point.

Opinions are like assholes man. I was trying to be thorough. I think that its important for people to realize that it is not always "my master cylinder isn't screwed out enough."
 
Opinions are like assholes man. I was trying to be thorough. I think that its important for people to realize that it is not always "my master cylinder isn't screwed out enough."


True but it's not just an opinion when it comes from someone who is probably the only person on this entire forum to have run both stage 3 and stage 4 xtd clutches and knows how the installs go :rolleyes:

But any way I would look into the extended rods as I have heard of people having disengaging problems being solved like that. Did you have any of these problems before the install ?
 
I tried to engage the clutch manually - and it works (I can separate the discs). After that I have tried to engage it with the pedal and that did not work. Searching for problems I found out that my master cylinder is leaky.
Do you know if I can use the original one or is there a better one for this stage kit?
 
I tried to engage the clutch manually - and it works (I can separate the discs). After that I have tried to engage it with the pedal and that did not work. Searching for problems I found out that my master cylinder is leaky.
Do you know if I can use the original one or is there a better one for this stage kit?

:confused: are you asking if theres a better master cylinder? If that's your question just pick up a new one from your local parts store and it should be fine. Mitsu stock stuff is underrated a lot of the time.
 
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