mario6363
Probationary Member
- 8
- 0
- Jul 21, 2010
-
San Jose,
California
Ok so i ran over to my local yard today and took a look at some FWD and AWD eclipses. I also measured the control arm vs the tie rod length as best i could...kind of visual using some wrenches for length guidelines. It looks like our Tie rods and control arms are about the same length...within 1/2 inch (this could change minorly when you do toe changes by turning the tie rod one way or another but they seem to be around 13 inches or so. So i guess i need to retract my previous statement of saying that they are different lengths
So there are two scenarios here that i am thinking of. AWD vs FWD knuckles. The steering rack is mounted in the same location for both vehicles and the control arm is mounted in the same location as well. It has been stated several times that changin to a FWD knuckle from and AWD knuckle will lower your tie rod point about 1 inch but it will not change the control arm location. For whatever reason the FWD knuckle gives better geometry meaning that the tie rod and control arm seem to have very similar angles through the suspension range (If anybody knows for sure why Mitsubishi did this i am curious). So if you have an AWD knuckle you would want to lower the tie rod mounting point about 1 inch more than the control arm mounting point to keep it in relationship to a FWD knuckle. Or if you switched to a FWD knuckle then you would want to keep everything even...1 inch for inch of equal lowering....make sense If i missed anything there let me know.
Ieally lowering only .5 inch wouldnt do much unless your suspension is so stiff that you have little roll movement. For street vehicles like mine i would love to lower 1 inch-1.5 inches equallyacross tied rod and ball joint mounts. That seems like alot but if you loweres 2 inches then your just getting it back to normal.
Keep the info coming guys
Thanks for the help
So there are two scenarios here that i am thinking of. AWD vs FWD knuckles. The steering rack is mounted in the same location for both vehicles and the control arm is mounted in the same location as well. It has been stated several times that changin to a FWD knuckle from and AWD knuckle will lower your tie rod point about 1 inch but it will not change the control arm location. For whatever reason the FWD knuckle gives better geometry meaning that the tie rod and control arm seem to have very similar angles through the suspension range (If anybody knows for sure why Mitsubishi did this i am curious). So if you have an AWD knuckle you would want to lower the tie rod mounting point about 1 inch more than the control arm mounting point to keep it in relationship to a FWD knuckle. Or if you switched to a FWD knuckle then you would want to keep everything even...1 inch for inch of equal lowering....make sense If i missed anything there let me know.
Ieally lowering only .5 inch wouldnt do much unless your suspension is so stiff that you have little roll movement. For street vehicles like mine i would love to lower 1 inch-1.5 inches equallyacross tied rod and ball joint mounts. That seems like alot but if you loweres 2 inches then your just getting it back to normal.
Keep the info coming guys
Ok just to recap on this picture you have and the links that have been provided for purchasing. I get the threaded sleeve and the screw in Howe Balljoint for the control arm but the tie rod end extender is confusing me. I see the Heim Joint AMF-M14 for he tie rod end but the picture you are showing for the piece that extends it down i cant find it in the pictures of Howe Racing ball joints....can you please provide the link for that part. Also have you measured how much you lowered each mounting point for the tie rod and control arm respectively?Ah, I see.
Now, what about this part? Where did it come from? Custom?You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Thanks for the help