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2G AEM Oil Pressure Gauge Install Q's

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tonyseagle

15+ Year Contributor
300
3
Jan 28, 2006
Valdosta, Georgia
I am assuming this is the correct area. I searched and read many of the oil pressure threads...but I havent seen any AEM specific installs.

Prior to install this...my A/C belt was stripping, which hit my oil pressure wire...basically ripping it apart thus killing my stock gauge. (7bolt motor)

I took this opportunity to buy an aftermarket gauge. AEM for the most part has worked fine for me. I have to be honest however...this time it didnt have a cut and dry set of instructions. From what I gathered, I needed to find a tap near the oil filter housing. Well the threads from the AEM unit and the tapping areas did not mate (Car's was about 3 sizes too big). I looked for another tap...and I noticed the threads on the stock oil pressure sending unit matched. I took the stock unit off and replaced it with the AEM one.

After the install the gauge reads --- . So I have 3 questions:

1. Do I need to buy a new stock oil pressure wire?

2. Do I need to make a T and tap both the oil pressure sender/AEM sender?

3. Could this issue also be cause by faulty wireing on my part? (I have it wired the same as my Boost/UEGO gauges.)

Thanks in advance to anybody who can help! :thumb:
 
Did you use any type of sealant on the sending unit? The electrical sending units have to ground through the oil filter housing to read correctly. If you screwed the AEM sending unit into the factory port, you're more than likely going to develop a leak. The factory threads are BPT, the AEM sender is NPT. It'll thread into it, but will not seal correctly. Did you run all new wiring for the gauge?
 
I ran the car after I installed it I saw no leaks. I didnt use sealant either. And I used the wires that came with the kit.


What would you recommend?
 
Thread sealant

Directions say to let this stuff dry for at least 4 hrs, fully cures within 72-hours. I have used this stuff and ran my car maybe after an hour with no issues.

You replaced the stock sending unit, so fitment should be fine wouldn't need anything else wiring wise. Check your wiring again and use the thread sealant.
 
Yeah, you just leave both sensors in place. Problem is finding a port and space for both sensors.

edit - ^^^^ beat me to it. The T-fitting is an option (man that length scares me personally). If you do this I'd be wary of using any brass parts as I've read plenty of anecodes with brass not being up to the vibration and breaking over time. That's a place I would NOT want to break and leak oil considering proximity to the accessory belts, driver's front tire, and the fact that all your oil's going to come flying out pretty quickly.
 
Yes, you can.

I have being running both of the sensors (Stock and AEM), You just need a T adapter to run both of them.
Just put a T on it, and install both sensors, one on each side, you also need to enlarge the stock line to reach the stock sensor, which you are moving the stock sensor away with the T adapter.

To answer the other question about the AEM Gauge ( ----), make sure you have + and - hooked up right, If you have them OK, then, try to add a ground on the filter housing, It could be that, your housing is not getting enough ground, also check that connector that goes on the sensor that is hooked up right, make sure the pins inside the connector are good.
I used thread sealer in all the fitting and sensors, and I never had any problems.
You have no leak at this point, But I highly recommend, to add some sealer or locker, With out the sealer or locker, With the time and vibration will make your sensor to leak...

Hope this helps.

I would be scare to use that long of fitting as well, which as longer is, as more vibration will get.
I didn't convert from BSPT to NPT, If you use sealer or locker, it will be find, which will be way, way, way shorter then that.
 
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