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2G AEM meth install question

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
377
52
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Ok, I'm about to order the aem meth kit, I understand most of it, but want to make sure a couple things that I wasn't able to clarify, also I have ordered the aem tru boost because I want a good failsafe with this system.
For the blue wire (external signal) can I hook that up to the maf frequency wire? And if so, which one is that on the maf?
I have looked it up but want to make sure.

Second, for the brown/white wire (solenoid wire, "connect to optional flow control solenoid")
Would this be used if I'm using an aem tru boost ebc?

And for my failsafe I'm connecting the green (boost safe) wire from the meth, to the orange (scramble boost) wire from the boost controller, and setting the duty cycle to 10% (the lowest)

And lastly, I've heard people talk about pulling timing as or as part of their failsafe, but how would someone set it up to pull timing when the meth fails?

Also if anyone has installed this kit, any tips are appreciated, thank you.
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,202
1,794
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Ok, I'm about to order the aem meth kit, I understand most of it, but want to make sure a couple things that I wasn't able to clarify, also I have ordered the aem tru boost because I want a good failsafe with this system.
For the blue wire (external signal) can I hook that up to the maf frequency wire? And if so, which one is that on the maf?
I have looked it up but want to make sure.
I assume that you are talking about the wiring for a multi input AEM controller.
Yes you can connect it to the frequency output from the MAF sensor by changing dip switch setting. But with my experience it would be easier if you connect it to an external MAP sensor output (voltage signal). If you don't have an external MAP sensor then you should have one or maybe go with an internal MAP controller which you just physically connect a pressure line instead of 5V or frequency signal.

Second, for the brown/white wire (solenoid wire, "connect to optional flow control solenoid")
Would this be used if I'm using an aem tru boost ebc?
And for my failsafe I'm connecting the green (boost safe) wire from the meth, to the orange (scramble boost) wire from the boost controller, and setting the duty cycle to 10% (the lowest)
No, you don't connect the brown/white wire to a boost solenoid. This is for an optional solenoid that would avoid the backflow of w/m by boost pressure since AEM kit doesn't have a check valve. That solenoid is different from the boost controller solenoid.
As for the scramble boost orange wire, yes that's correct. The boost controller will make the duty cycle to 10% when the wire is grounded.

And lastly, I've heard people talk about pulling timing as or as part of their failsafe, but how would someone set it up to pull timing when the meth fails?
Also if anyone has installed this kit, any tips are appreciated, thank you.
You need some EMS or device that allows you to control ignition timing or/and fuel trim as failsafe. The green wire is just a trigger for failsafe. You connect the green wire to EMS/boost controller's failsafe wire. When something happens to the w/m system, the green wire will be grounded then activate the failsafe.
For example, you set a failsafe via EMS to retard ignition timing and add more fuel if the failsafe wire is grounded. So if the w/m tank gets empty while you are boosting, the green wire will be grounded and activates the failsafe and then EMS will retard ignition timing and/or add more fuel automatically.
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
377
52
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Ok great, very informative thank you.
So I can just tie off the brown/white wire seeing as the meth injector has a built in check valve?
And for the input (blue) wire, what would be the cheapest option?
is changing the dip switch settings something I can accomplish with dsmlink?
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,202
1,794
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Ok great, very informative thank you.
So I can just tie off the brown/white wire seeing as the meth injector has a built in check valve?
And for the input (blue) wire, what would be the cheapest option?
is changing the dip switch settings something I can accomplish with dsmlink?
Yeah, if you have a check valve then you don't exactly need this wire connected.
Since the AEM Tru boost doesn't come with an external MAP sensor, the cheapest option would be with the MAF frequency output. The dip switch is just to select the frequency range. You select the range that meets DSM MAF.
Or as you have ECMLink, to have a MAP sensor is a good idea if you don't have one yet. That allows you to log the boost pressure, too. and then split the MAP 5V signal to AEM controller.
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
377
52
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
that actually makes perfect sense thank you, ok so what is a good/inexpensive option for a map sensor? it shouldn't be vehicle specific or anything, and I like the idea of logging boost.
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,202
1,794
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
that actually makes perfect sense thank you, ok so what is a good/inexpensive option for a map sensor? it shouldn't be vehicle specific or anything, and I like the idea of logging boost.
Any 5V output MAP sensor is fine for the AEM controller but for ECMLink with considering wiring and software setup, if you have a 2g intake manifold the easiest way would be the Omni Mitsu style 4 bar MAP sensor that replaces with the factory MDP sensor on intake manifold.
 

EVLGSX

Proven Member
655
250
Dec 7, 2017
Wallingford, Connecticut
I would add the solenoid you mentioned in your first post....................place the solenoid as close to the the methanol nozzle as possible.

This will give you better methanol control and more repeatable results.............in addition to preventing back flow.

FYI I found one single properly sized nozzle just AFTER the intercooler to give the best results

Also, I dont know if you ordered anything yet but the more expensive methanol controllers have a built in MAP sensor so you just run a vaccum line off the manifold to the controller. Super simple to install. Might be better for where you are at with this car........depending on your plans of coarse.
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
377
52
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Oh ok, a better controller with built in map sensor? What would be an example of one?
Also it says to install the nozzle above the level of tank (or pump I forgot) but my intercooler pipe is one of the lowest points on my car.
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,202
1,794
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Oh ok, a better controller with built in map sensor? What would be an example of one?
Also it says to install the nozzle above the level of tank (or pump I forgot) but my intercooler pipe is one of the lowest points on my car.
What would be better for you depends on your setup and preference. Like the one I mentioned in the first reply, AEM internal MAP controller and it's the same price as the multi input controller. or other manufacturer's produce it, too. You just choose one that meets your setup and your plan. I'm sure most of controllers will work just fine for you.
An internal MAP controller would probably be simpler and easier with installation and setting. But in some case it would be better to have a multi input controller, like if you are planning to boost really high in the future, since you wouldn't be able to control the progressive curve if the boost exceeds the internal MAP sensor's limit. And it will be more flexible with input source since the multi input controller accepts MAF frequency, MAP voltage and injector duty as well. So you can still use it even if you change your car to a N/A. Also you can share the input signal source with ECU would be beneficial.

Nozzle "should" be mounted higher than the tank and that's "ideal". You wouldn't need to be worried much about that if you have a solenoid but should be careful more about the pump's inlet position, that must be at the lowest fluid level or lower. it seems AEM now has a built-in check valve in their nozzle and they have their own solenoid as an option, too. If I were you, I would go with the solenoid if the budget allows. Before they didn't have a check valve, neither a solenoid.
 
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