Advice on broken fuel line

[juntjoo]

so as you can see I broke the fuel line replacing the fuel filter and just want the simplest solution. Reading up on this issue I've learned there are common upgrading options usually consisting of the braided ss lines with higher flow fuel filters but I don't necessarily need that right now as much as I just want to get this car running again, so is there a way I can fix the end of that line back onto the butt of this new stock fuel filter(same as the used one in the pic)? What is my simplest option(s) save for replacing that whole line which looks like a real PITA. Thanks.

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[bastarddsm]

Don't use compression fittings on fuel or brake lines. That's Auto 101. Them things don't seal worth a shit.

And the brass ones can blow apart when used on brake lines.

Borrow a goddamn flare tool from oreillys or vatozone and fix it right. ####kkkkkk.

 

[pauleyman]

This is from mcmastercarr. I did mine with a steel compression fitting more than 10 years ago. If you use the right fitting it will be fine. Or get a flare tool and fix it. You're over analyziing this. You should have already had it fixed by now.


Steel Yor-Lok Tube Fittings
Maximum Pressure: See below
Temperature Range: -20° to +800° F
Tubing: Use seamless carbon steel that meets ASTM A179 or J525b
Also called instrumentation fittings, Yor-Lok fittings have a body and nut like other compression fittings, but also have front and back sleeves (double ferrules) that form a leak-free seal around the outside of your tubing, unless noted. They're compatible with Swagelok®, Parker A-Lok, and Let-Lok fittings. Fittings are made from forged or bar stock carbon steel with a zinc-plated finish. They offer strength and durability and are ideal for applications that require a high pressure rating in noncorrosive environments. They can be sterilized with steam (autoclaving). Use with air, oil, hydraulic fluid, gasoline, and diesel fuel. Not rated for vacuum. Pipe connections are NPT. Nut/tube ends have UNF straight screw threads.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.
Couplings, Tube to Tube

For Tube
OD Nut/Tube
End Thread Max. psi
@ 72° F For Tube
Wall Thick. Each
1/8" 5/16"-20 6,800

 

[juntjoo]

Yes Mr popups I checked out your links but I'm still gathering info at this point. Don't wasn't to order something off the internet I don't even understand.

And mcmastercarsomethingorother, thanks, I'll take that as encouragement but as should be clear at this point, I have just a bit more than a clue on what I'm doing here, and little time between two jobs. So thanks for your replies.

Have you ever looked for a "fitting shop" in google maps? Is there another way to search these shops? Mentioned it today to a mechanic and he didn't offer anything on local fitting shops but he was the one who explained pressure rating and that I should determine the max for the line, he guessed 40-60psi, then just match or exceed it with whatever your attaching to it.


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[pauleyman]

http://www.yellowpages.com/fort-myers-fl/hydraulic-hose

You could still reflare but that nut looked pretty mangled. I'm assuming you got it off there. Thats kind of why I suggested going to cut off one from a salvage car and using the fitting instead of reflaring. Your choice.

 

[juntjoo]

http://www.yellowpages.com/fort-myers-fl/hydraulic-hose

You could still reflare but that nut looked pretty mangled. I'm assuming you got it off there. Thats kind of why I suggested going to cut off one from a salvage car and using the fitting instead of reflaring. Your choice.

Awesome thanks for the tip. I'm surrounded by fitting shops!

Actually, that nut IS done and that was why I was happy to grab that fitting from Lowes because it would fit directly into the filter, no nut needed. But now I'll be shopping around the hydraulic shops. Thanks

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[bastarddsm]

This is from mcmastercarr. I did mine with a steel compression fitting more than 10 years ago. If you use the right fitting it will be fine. Or get a flare tool and fix it. You're over analyziing this. You should have already had it fixed by now.

Swagelok, isn't a typical hardware store compression fitting tho.

 

[pauleyman]

Swagelok, isn't a typical hardware store compression fitting tho.

This is why I said don't go to home depot. It kind of sounds like you're still planning on using that Lowes part? It isn't made for steel and it will not seal into the bottom of the filter. It will not work.
Your two options still remain. Reflare or get a double compression fitting, a section of stock line including the flare and nut from a salvage car. If you want to reflare looks like you'll need another nut which you could also get at a fitting shop or take one from salvage.

These are the only two ways I see to do this and retain the stock filter.

 

[juntjoo]

Mrpopups, Of those four links, which are you suggesting? Also they are all of standard sizes. I noticed that the fitting I got from Lowes fits a little loose on the fatter threaded fuel filter end so I'm guessing it's some standard size a touch under 14mm. Speaking of which, apparently hydraulic equipment shops don't carry metric so I might have to shop this part on the internet.

So does anyone know off hand what size this steel line is? I believe that the thread on the fuel filter end corresponds with the nut (right?) So I'll be looking for a steel fitting like the Lowes one, 14mm threaded on one end to whatever size that is that connects to the line.

And what is all this "flaring" talk. Isn't that done with the ferule in the compression fitting?



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[juntjoo]

I found this "Fastenal" place someone recommended because nowhere can metric be found, and they have steel fittings and can order metric but they have these unfamiliar ends. Anyone familiar with this and know how these fittings attach to a tube? I understand how the ones with the ferrule are supposed to work but this is new to me and unfortunately the guy at the store didn't know. I couldn't catch it with my camera but inside the lip there if those plastic ends like a ring of teeth. Things that make you go hmm.

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[juntjoo]

I ended up going to the junk yard, immediately found a talon, same generation, but apparently whoever serviced the fuel line last also broke and repaired it but they put a rubber hose in there, which I found interesting because moving on to find another DSM I saw many imports with rubber hoses attached the fuel filters but no one has suggested rubber hose. Is it just not as strong?

Anyway, I ended up finding the same nut with the same 8mm line screwed into a fuel filter in a Mazda I believe so I'll be using this:

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24776-785-306.aspx

to connect it to my line. And for anyone else with this problem and hasn't found a scrap nut and tube to salvage, I found this researching:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-800-151/

Unless I'm wrong this looks to be the right part and easiest solution.

 

[bastarddsm]

reuse the old tube nut, and reflare the hard line. It will put the filter a bit lower, but you can flip the bracket and have room to play!

 

[Mike_GST]

Hello guys. Replacing the fuel filter I got the 14mm nut (bottom) rounded. The line is ok but the nut head is wasted. Which of the options presented on this thread did work?