advice before purchase

[xhaust50]

I looked at a 90 Talon TSI AWD today. Owner wants $1900. There is 133k. Paint isn't fading but has no shine to it. Body is much better on my car. I just want opinions.

Bad:
1. Temp gauge doesn't work - was said to stop working after the radiator was replaced recently. I let it idle for a while and the fans kicked on and off the same as mine does.
2. Rear brakes need to be replaced. Calipers/pads/rotors. They grinded away and prevented the car from rolling at a slow speed. How much would this cost with a $75/hour labor rate?
3. Oil pressure seemed strange. At a long idle period, the needle was inbetween the lines for idle and 3000 rpm's, and while driving around 2500rpm's the needle was inbetween the 3000rpm line and the end line. What does this mean?

On a positive note, the tranny shifted smoothly, and it had a turbo timer, and was stock minus the mbc which was set at 12psi.

Compared to my FWD: 150k, body and paint in probably the best shape I have seen on a non-painted DSM, tranny shifts smooth, runs perfectly, 100% stock.

Need advice. I'd like to take it to my mechanic but the car is a 30 minute drive, and not sure how the brakes would hold up.

 

[will90Eclipse]

I would try to get him down a little on the price. See if you can get him to about $1500 then you have some money in case something does go wrong

1. If the car doesn't seem to overheat it should be o.k. just replace the gauge.

2. How do you know it needs new calipers? As for pads and rotors, change them your self it will save you some cash.

3. If you mean the needle dropped at idle and goes up during normal driving you might want to check your oil pump. Mine had this problem so I changed the pump, but it turns out the gauge still drops at idle.

BTW You might want to have a good look at the turbo, check for leaks and shaft play

 

[Dream On]

Brakes are an easy fix. You could do that yourself, if you have the space, time, and tools. To be safe, flat bed it. That is only if you think it wouldn't make it. And for the temperature gauge, I believe there is an engine coolant sensor by the thermo housing that is for the ecu. That is what I would guess the problem is for that. This car sounds about like mine, except its about $700 cheaper, and is a few years older. Good luck with it.

 

[xhaust50]

Purchased it for $1700. I have a local selling calipers / pads / rotors with 500 miles on them before the car was totaled, but I'm going to take it to my mechanic to make sure it needs calipers. I think it would have to being the brakes were hung up though? Pads and rotors might be a doable install, but I think calipers are over my head. At the very least, I'm pretty sure I can clean up the paint nicely and sell it for atleast what I bought it for. I see AWD shells going for $1200 here in NY. We'll see.

 

[xhaust50]

While I'm at it, how much am I looking at for stock calipers, rotors, and pads, and maybe lines? Like I said I have a local who is selling, but I have no idea what its worth.

 

[Dream On]

Calipers aren't any harder to install than brake pads, except you have to bleed the brakes afterwards. When you do the brake pads, you have to have them unbolted anyway, all that holds them on from there are the brake lines. Just one more line to take off and thats it. Bolt it all back up, and put in some fluid and bleed. Its not hard, but I understand that some people don't wanna mess with it and just get it done and have it done right by someone. I'd would guess prices about like this (but check on Autozone's web site if you want)

Calipers: $40-50 a piece
Rotors: $20 a piece
Pads: Depends what you want, could get really cheap ones, or pretty expensive ones
Lines: SS lines go for about $100-120 I think for all of them.

Like I said though, these may not be entirely accurate.

 

[numlock666]

or your local wrecking yard, about 20 bucks for the whole caliper and rotar. Then 35 bucks at autozone for new pads