Act clutch question

[talon187]

hey guys im looking to make around 400-450 whp. im looking at a new clutch and was wondering this. Whats the difference between the act 6 puck soild disk and the disk with the springs? I was also wondering what is better 6 puck or 4 puck. what should i do go with ? im going for a mean street car i doubt it will see much track time. I was also wondering if i should go with a 2600 or a 2900? whats the difference? or should i be asking what each is rated for hp? I was wondering form people who are running the 2600 or better if they had to get an exstended clutch rod for the salve cyilnder as well. thanks for any input guys

 

[jongreene]

A 6 puck disc will have a much harsher enagagement than a full face "street disc". If youre not going to the track and want 400whp the 2600 would suffice but If it were me I'd go with the 2900 for added protection. It has a pretty stiff pedal but nothing you cant get used to.

 

[talon187]

ok but the 6 puck would be better with that kind of power then the street disk right ? or should i go with the street disk ?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Depends on what you're doing with the car.

Puck disk - a good track only disk, a bit touchy on the streets with the "on-off" type of engagement.
Street disk - as the name implies...a good street disk. With the compounds available in clutch technology now, performance street disks have better heat capacity and can handle track days a lot better.
Sprung disk - think of them as built in shock absorbers.
Un-sprung disk - no "shock absorber" to dampen the harshness of engagement.

At your goal level I probably would also go with a 2900 or equivalent and a sprung hub puck disk if you're going to drive it on the streets.

 

[talon187]

thank you for the input it ive had one of two friends use the street disks and have had the springs come out and im having my transmssion built and thats the last thing i want to have happen again thanks for the input

 

[FORMONTOYA]

How much power and what clutch were they using?

I would imagine that the reason for the springs to pop out is that a lot of people don't match the clutch up to the output of their car properly. The springs get compressed too much and end up popping out.

my 0.02

 

[Froyd79]

If the car sees any street time your probably going to hate the unsprung. One day of stop and go traffic will drive you nuts! 2900 is the best option in my opinion w/ a street disk. Works great on street and great at the track and can handle some power. the 29 isnt heavy either. ACT redisigned the PP and it feels like any other 26 I have driven.

 

[DGajre777]

Old post, but why are people recommending the ACT2900? For 400-450whp, which is about 350-380 ft/lbs of torque, a ACT2100 with a 6 puck sprung hub disc OR a ACT2600 with a street disc will suffice.

 

[Froyd79]

Because sometimes 2600 doesnt work on worn pedal assemblies because these cars are almost 20 years old.
Regardless seems pointless you bring it up. I just broke 2 rear axles @ the track on a welded diff. Is it overkill? Yes! But until Clutch companies,machine shops and car builders Are all perfect, then who is to say the step height isnt off a hair, or the assembly isnt worn a bit.
I went through 6 clutches @ roughly 2000$ before I eliminated all my problems and found one I liked (for both my DE-T and GSX) And its not gonna start slipping when I spray it.

Its hard to keep it Leyman when others dont understand how why a 8/6/4/3 puck disk holds more power. Guy at the track this week checked out my 2900 said it was lighter than his 2600. Its great on the street, grabs well. I have a ACT HD PP w/ 6 puck sprung hub in my DE-T but its a Cable clutch and feels awesome. Rated @ 310, So I am @ 280 now. I cant turn the wick up or I just went past torque capacity. My question is why torture yourself?

What I am getting at is until the Quality Control of Clutches is top notch, Not every clutch is tested to hold true. Try taking your clutch back to exchange it when it was rated for 380 and its slipping @ 370. If we just had a bigger Outside Diameter like a RWD V8 it would be alot easier!

I have told the machine shop the specs and got "we know what we are doing"
I have seen cutting machine go south slowly and put a slope on flywheels
I have seen Junk master cylinder, slaves, lines, fork, fulcrum, assemblies, Distorted bell housings.

To assume all these are perfect would be crazy! And the typical DSM guy does not have 500 dollars and a week to go over every detail. Some cars are fine others are not. 2 cars are not equakl and there must be compromise. Just my thoughts!

 

[laserspeeddemon]

I was wondering form people who are running the 2600 or better if they had to get an exstended clutch rod for the salve cyilnder as well. thanks for any input guys

I chopped you're post and will respond to other replies. As for the Clutch rod. DO NOT DO THIS!!! If the clutch is grabbing low of the floor, then there is some other problem you need to address. Using an extend clutch rod to remedy the problem is like sticking one of those pinky band-aids on bullet wound.

A 6 puck disc will have a much harsher enagagement than a full face "street disc". If youre not going to the track and want 400whp the 2600 would suffice but If it were me I'd go with the 2900 for added protection. It has a pretty stiff pedal but nothing you cant get used to.

At your goal level I probably would also go with a 2900 or equivalent and a sprung hub puck disk if you're going to drive it on the streets.

Old post, but why are people recommending the ACT2900? For 400-450whp, which is about 350-380 ft/lbs of torque, a ACT2100 with a 6 puck sprung hub disc OR a ACT2600 with a street disc will suffice.

ok but the 6 puck would be better with that kind of power then the street disk right ? or should i go with the street disk ?

If the car sees any street time your probably going to hate the unsprung. One day of stop and go traffic will drive you nuts! 2900 is the best option in my opinion w/ a street disk. Works great on street and great at the track and can handle some power. the 29 isnt heavy either. ACT redisigned the PP and it feels like any other 26 I have driven.

I agree 100% with Dee on this one. In fact, I would narrow it down to ACT2600 (Heavy Duty) with a street disc since this is going to be a primarily street driven car. Believe me, you will be more comfortable with an street disc.

Depends on what you're doing with the car.

Puck disk - a good track only disk, a bit touchy on the streets with the "on-off" type of engagement.
Street disk - as the name implies...a good street disk. With the compounds available in clutch technology now, performance street disks have better heat capacity and can handle track days a lot better.
Sprung disk - think of them as built in shock absorbers.
Un-sprung disk - no "shock absorber" to dampen the harshness of engagement.

Good description.

thank you for the input it ive had one of two friends use the street disks and have had the springs come out and im having my transmssion built and thats the last thing i want to have happen again thanks for the input

How much power and what clutch were they using?

I would imagine that the reason for the springs to pop out is that a lot of people don't match the clutch up to the output of their car properly. The springs get compressed too much and end up popping out.

my 0.02

I did a WHOLE experiment with this issue with ACT's spring issue back in like 2003-2004. ACT said it is due to install error. It is indeed an install error issue. Here what is boils down to.

This is a picture of a tech article I did about that time frame.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You will see two bolt holes on the lower section of the engine that have dowel pins, or as I call them; alignment sleeves. Make no doubt about it. These things fall right out when you pull the transmission. If these little suckers are gone and you install an upgraded pressure plate, you will destroy the hub on the clutch disc. Make sure they are there and you will have no problem.




Sorry I have to dissect this one.

Because sometimes 2600 doesnt work on worn pedal assemblies because these cars are almost 20 years old.

Well thats just backwards. I rebuilt my clutch pedal assembly. I didn't upgrade to a harder clutch, in fact that would have made things more difficult for me.

Regardless seems pointless you bring it up. I just broke 2 rear axles @ the track on a welded diff. Is it overkill? Yes! But until Clutch companies,machine shops and car builders Are all perfect, then who is to say the step height isnt off a hair, or the assembly isnt worn a bit.
I went through 6 clutches @ roughly 2000$ before I eliminated all my problems and found one I liked (for both my DE-T and GSX) And its not gonna start slipping when I spray it.

Theres two ways to learn; trail & error and research. My way is not better, but ALOT cheaper. After the first clutch failed I took ACT head on with a host of DSMers that could have easily amounted to a class action law suit. Due to legal restrictions I can only go as far as to say ACT was not at fault for these failures. My thread explains it alot better. However I did alot of research, I found faults in other peoples errors and I learned from them. I learned about the dynamics of how our clutch system works and now I pretty much know how it all comes together. If I had the tools myself I could measure the step height myself.

Its hard to keep it Leyman when others dont understand how why a 8/6/4/3 puck disk holds more power. Guy at the track this week checked out my 2900 said it was lighter than his 2600. Its great on the street, grabs well. I have a ACT HD PP w/ 6 puck sprung hub in my DE-T but its a Cable clutch and feels awesome. Rated @ 310, So I am @ 280 now. I cant turn the wick up or I just went past torque capacity. My question is why torture yourself?

Sure it is, contact material and surface area. It's not much more complex then that.

What I am getting at is until the Quality Control of Clutches is top notch, Not every clutch is tested to hold true. Try taking your clutch back to exchange it when it was rated for 380 and its slipping @ 370. If we just had a bigger Outside Diameter like a RWD V8 it would be alot easier!

I can't respond to this without going on a business ethics rampage. So I'll leave this one alone.

I have told the machine shop the specs and got "we know what we are doing"
I have seen cutting machine go south slowly and put a slope on flywheels
I have seen Junk master cylinder, slaves, lines, fork, fulcrum, assemblies, Distorted bell housings.

I've replaced the flywheel both times when putting in the clutch with the Talon. First a Fidanza, then a ACT unit. So I never dealt with a flywheel machinist.
As for the JUNK parts. The only original OEM stock parts in my clutch system is the part of the clutch pedal (the parts that don't' wear), the hard lines, and the Fork/ball. I will replacing that next. My point is, for some of us (coming on 10 years as a DSMer) We've all that and more.

To assume all these are perfect would be crazy! And the typical DSM guy does not have 500 dollars and a week to go over every detail. Some cars are fine others are not. 2 cars are not equakl and there must be compromise. Just my thoughts!

You're right we don't have 500 a week (well I do, but nevermind that). But we can do other things to ease the blow of the less the perfect way of the world. Don't keep your DD you're project car. Get a separate car, protect yourself, research manufactures and vendors, not just part quality but costumer support quality. And always, ALWAYS pay in a method where you can get your money back. If you paid cash and they don't want to give it back. Then nothing short of a law suit (and sometimes even then, you can get screwed) will get it back. I always pay with a CC so I can dispute charges, if I am sold a bogus or faulty part and the vendor and/or manufacture doesn't want to play nice.