1G A tensioner problem

[TurboLaserRS]

I have a question that may seem a little stupid but I would rather ask than replace more valves. I have everything all together and ready to go last night, set what we thought was the correct pretension and pulled the grenade pin. Power went out shortly after, so I didn't get to do the six rotations of the crank so I could let it sit and check the tensioner protrusion. So I guess my question is will this be a problem or can I go ahead and pick up where I left off? How hard should it be to turn the motor over with the plugs out? All the marks are still lining up and the belt seems good and taut but doing the drill bit method I'm not sure if I'm in spec or not.

 

[Kng Nothg]

Dont think i ever said not to rotate the motor 6 times. Everyone knows that. Just saying to the KID who said for me to stop giving adive. thats it. Thanks.

 

[GsxAZman]

I didnt mean you. I believe there was another member stating that it was not necessary. Now I think I missread his comment now that I reread it. Just trying to make a point about how imprtant that step is IMO

 

[pauleyman]

Still didn't answer my question. The OP may find use in this and others also. Why would anybody consider the pictures to be correct? Obviously I can't measure but the hole is so far above the casting it's very unlikely to be in spec. No slams here. Just curious.

 

[Kng Nothg]

On another note I did not see the tensoiner. MY fault.

 

[DSM1G90]

The drillbit trick is tough to get within the two measurements - is what I did with mine.

But, you don't want to be too much or too little of gap.

Why you roll the six times to see if the autotensioner got "seated" in.

 

[steve]

Why you roll the six times to see if the autotensioner got "seated" in.

You are equalizing the tension on the belt and it takes at minimum 6 turns to bring all the timing marks back into alignment. You then wait 15 mins to make sure that the auto-tensioner holds the load.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

I rolled it over 12 times just to make sure. That 4mm allen had just a tiny wiggle room in it, and I bent the living crap out of my drill bit I was using to pry the tensioner up. It was literally as tight as I could get it, I did it 4 times just to be sure. My room mate was really mad at me over the drill bit but it led a good life, and died doing something useful. Haha

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

The drill bit should slide in and out EASILY. Keep trying till you get it so it slides in and out smoothly, man. Then you have it 100% correct. If it takes 20 tries or whatever, just do it!

And I guess you don't have the right tools or what?

 

[TurboLaserRS]

I think your confused, the drill bit that died was used to pry up the tensioner pulley to preset the tension. It didn't get all bent trying to gauge the auto tensioner gap. Lol! But yeah I don't have the special tools. I pulled the grenade pin and rotated the motor six times. Decided for sh!ts and gigs to rotate it another six. Then I put the 4mm allen wrench between the auto tensioner body and tensioner arm. It had very little play. Was much much tighter than the first time I tried it in the thread. At that point I tried to put the grenade pin back in and I got it most of the way in. It was tight but it went in. I decided that was good enough for me.

 

[DSM1G90]

If you want to cheat and NOT use the drillbit trick, try this out for size:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/214625-timing-belt-tensioning-tips-4g63-turbo.html

It does work if you're careful enough. - DSM

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Thanks to all that contributed to the thread. I'm glad that I waited for second opinions. The method that I described above worked quite well for me and yielded this.

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Car is running, now just have to track down the cause of the high idle and why my tach doesn't work.

 

[steve]

Car is running, now just have to track down the cause of the high idle and why my tach doesn't work.

Idle issues are fun to track down since your looking for tiny air leaks. Pressure testing from the throttle body elbow can help identify them. Don't forget to test the whole system from the turbo compression housing inlet when you done.

Did you reattach the noise filter that's mounted on the rear intake manifold stay to the ignition system? It's unique to a 90 car and connects the output of the tach gate on the coil to the gauge cluster for the tach.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

I got my tach working, it was just unplugged and buried under the loom. So that's taken care of. When I adjust the CAS forward at all my idle goes absolutely insane. Playing with the biss screw doesn't do anything either so right now I'm going over all my clamps and stuff.
I drove it down the road for a minute and the turbo gauge pegs like instantly and it bucks like a bronco like when my wires were arcing. Definitely some things to work out.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Well I found part of the problem. The rubberized intake tube that necks down over the turbo was not tightened down. It wasn't even finger tight, so I guess the turbo was probably sucking a whole ton of unmetered air in.

 

[DSM1G90]

Playing with the biss screw doesn't do anything either so right now I'm going over all my clamps and stuff.

You oughta play with the IAC first and get it reset before playing with the BISS.

Good luck-DSM

 

[TurboLaserRS]

I reclamped nearly everything in the engine bay. I tried to start the car today and it was only running on one cylinder! Freaked out thinking the timing had jumped! I calmed down and took the plugs out and they are all black. I noticed when the car was running before(badly) that it was smoking black like it was running rich. So now I'm going over things that would cause it to be so rich. It is killing plugs within less than an half hour of running. My room mate thinks it's the base timing not being set that's doing it but I don't think it would be this severe. The only other thing I have found on dsmtalk was an ECU problem. I have been trying to post literally all day about once every hour and the site is constantly down . Can someone give me some insight into what might be wrong? I can't even search half the time.

 

[andyb2637]

Fouled plugs wouldent have anything to do with jumping timing so we're safe there. Old fuel maybe?? Or you could have some bad injectors. Test those out then check you FPR and make sure thats in spec also.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Yeah it had fuel in it from 2009. Today I put 2 gallons of 93 and 1 gallon of e85. It is definitely running better but its not quite there. My misfire has moved from 3k to approximately 4k now. I'm hoping the injectors were gummed to the point where they allow the car to idle but just couldn't supply more fuel to rev higher. Ill keep posted on what comes from it.