A multitude of problems. TPS, coolant temp sensor, CAS, ??

[STI2TALON]

I have a 1996 Talon AWD with a 1 bolt swap. Well my engine bent valves back in november due to a timing blet slip from a faulty tensioner. I pulled the engine, had a reputable shop put it together with all new everything... heres a list of the mods:
Engine:
-complete 6 bolt swap from a 1g
-eagle rods
-cp pistons (.040 over , 9.0 compression)
-all new gaskets, rings, bearings, etc
-all new belts, OEM mitsu timing belt
-all new waterpump, tensioner bearings, hydraulic tensioner
-brian crower stage 3 cams
-brian crower titanium valvesprings and retainers
-3g "revised" lash adjusters
-Coil on plug ignition
-Adjustable cam gears set to 0 as a baseline

Transmission:
-Tranny Rebuilt by DogBox Racing
-Symborski Shift Kit
-B&M short shifter
-Solid Shifter Cable Bushings
-ACT 2600 Clutch Kit
-ACT XACT LightWeight Flywheel

Exhaust:
-Ported 2g Exhaust Manifold
-JMF SS Heat Shield
-o2 Housing Dump
-3" SS Downpipe
-Apex-i Cat Back

Intake:
-3" Intake
-SBR 50 Trim turbo with about 10k
-Greddy 24R Frount Mount Kit
-Dejon Upper Intercooler Pipe

Fuel:
-walbro 255 Pump
-FIC 650cc Injectors (to be swapped out for FIC 850CC)
-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
-B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge

Tuning:
-Stage 3 eProm ECU
-AEM Wideband with new Sensor
-Apexi SAFC II

The battery is currently relocated to the spare tire well in the trunk.
The shop that put it back in had problems with the electrical system but eventually got it to fire up. It idled very roughly, jumping up in down from 1000 to 2000 rpms rapidly, and sometimes just plain idled really high, like around 2700 rpms. They told me this was because of the cams but Ive since learned on here its because of a faulty tps. Sure enough I got a tps CEL. Then my engine would run worse and worse until it just shut off, sometime lasting only 10 blocks. It seemed like it was overheating. I replaced bothe the tps and the coolant temp sensor (which also had a code that popped up) along with the coolant temp sender just while I was down there in that area.
Now the car doesnt start. It doesnt even begin to turn over. It cranks all day and I can smell fuel but it seems as if it gets no spark. Plus the throttle % on my SAFC shows 9.5 % right off the bat at startup instead of 0% like it did before the replacement. I get tuned may 12, i need to have the car run by then. Any suggestions? Thanks, Brandon

 

[assault187]

adjust your TPS untill it reads 0-1% throttle.

Check for spark and swap the CAS.

 

[XilArAtiNG]

CKP most definately is part of the problem. This will cause no spark. So definately replace that.
A bad CAS will not cause you to lose spark, the engine just wont know when its the correct time to fire so it will fire randomly.

 

[white_dsm]

Cranks and no start?

1. Voltage good?
2. Check your charging system
3. MPI relay might be faulty, search it up
4. Check your fuel pump to see if it works
Work your way up.

 

[STI2TALON]

-Changed TPS and set it to 0 at idle (on safc, was 9.5% before)
-Changed coolant temp sensor and coolant gauge sensor
-Refilled coolant, burped
-Changed plugs to brand new ngk bpr7es

The car started right up and was running better than it ever has. However theres still some issues:

-Car idles at 1500 on startup and as car heats up it idles higher and higher to about 2200 and stays there

-On the test drive the rpms would stutter, like a hiccup and the car would jerk before catching itself. Sometimes when the clutch is depressed the rpms go crazy and drop 1000 in an instant and than catch itself and shoot back up. It seemed to do it at random too, usually at very light throttle (trying to baby it)

-Car got unusually hot for a 5 minute drive. Granted I dont have the heat shield on because the shop forgot to put it back on but i didnt think it would get that hot. maybe the heat is what is causing the car to stutter, i dont know. The temp gauge appeares normal though.

-Also, my aem uego wideband reads 14.9 and never moves. I figured they hooked it back up wrong or the 02 sensor was bad from being out all winter. I mightve seen it at 14.8 once but mostly 14.9 in all conditions and rpms/throttle input.

FYI, the safc is at the same settings as before I had my engine rebuilt. The injectors are the same size though and the turbo is the same. The only difference is the stage 3 cams and titanium springs and retainers, which i was told would cause a crappy idle but tune would still be ok if i dont go into boost. I do not know enough about the safc and ecu to tune it myself so I was going to let buschur do it.
I took a step in the right direction but I cant have the car overheating. Thanks for the help so far, any ideas?

 

[assault187]

have you tried adjusting the biss? try playing with that then move on to checking the IAC.

 

[STI2TALON]

have you tried adjusting the biss? try playing with that then move on to checking the IAC.

Would the ISC motor /BISS cause a jumpy rpm and near dying of the engine? By IAC do you mean the idle air control screw on the front of the throttle body?

 

[evileagle_95]

yes, an incorrectly adjusted BISS or faulty ISC can cause irratic RPM jumping. The BISS is basically just a controlled vaccum leak around the throttle plate when it's closed. The screw on the front of the throttle body is the BISS screw. The ISC is opposite the TPS sensor on the throttle body. hope these issues help the problem!

 

[90laserRSfwd]

just to clearify the ISC is not opposite the TPS sensor, the ISC is under the throttle body, it has a connector that has 6 wires.

 

[Spyder4g64]

What did the shop do for wiring the 6-bolt in?
Were the Injector Trigger Wires swapped?
The Coil Firing Order swapped?
Also I would double check the CrAS & CAS wiring.

Here is a reference as to what is SUPPOSED to be done. 6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

 

[STI2TALON]

Turns out the wiring for the coil on plug system was backwards..Im not even sure how the car ran. The only problem remaining is the high idle. I adjusted the BISS and lowered it about 1000 rpms but its still around 1500-2000. AFR are 14.2-15.5 at idle but it jumps all over the place. Sometimes on startup its around 13.1.
I dont think theres any leaks but could a boost/vacuum leak cause high idle?


Plus, I keep getting the check engine light for the coolant temp sensor, even though I just replaced both the sender for the gauge (single spade connector) and the coolant temp sensor with the 2 wires a week ago. The connector doesnt look like it has any moisture ibn it and seems firmly connected. I cleared the code at autozone and 5 minutes later it came up again. So could the sensor go bad so soon?

 

[STI2TALON]

What did the shop do for wiring the 6-bolt in?
Were the Injector Trigger Wires swapped?
The Coil Firing Order swapped?
Also I would double check the CrAS & CAS wiring.

Here is a reference as to what is SUPPOSED to be done. 6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

CAS wiring is good, the coil firing order was actually ok but the wires going into the top of the coil was switched on 2 and 4. Car seems to run a bit better now that they are switched back.

The 6 bolt wiring was preexisting so the shop didnt have to do much. (there was already a 6 bolt swap, it just skipped timing and bent valves and I had to get the engine rebuilt)

 

[casperfast]

i know some vehicles wont start if your throttle is on at all. try reseting your fasc so it can be calibrated to the new tps. worth a shot

 

[STI2TALON]

i know some vehicles wont start if your throttle is on at all. try reseting your fasc so it can be calibrated to the new tps. worth a shot

you mean safc? not sure what the fasc is haha. The car actually starts and runs decent. Just the cold starts are a pain in the butt. and it idles high still...

 

[STI2TALON]

The problem turned out to be the coil packs....i bought a new buschur racing coil on plug system and that eliminated 90% of the problem. The rest was the coolant temp sensor...