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A/C working after FMIC?

Still have workin AC after FMIC?


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    22

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DSM Wiseman
8,280
130
Sep 19, 2008
Anywhere, Pennsylvania
So who has installed a FMIC and still has a 100% working AC system? I just got back from Pepboys to check my AC out as it's been hot since the rebuild and they are saying max pressure is there. Basically the condenser isnt cooling off enough and is heat soaking.

I'm 100% ducted to the condenser from the FMIC so this is baffling. Anyone have similar issues? I'm now considering taking out the AC because of this.
 
So who has installed a FMIC and still has a 100% working AC system? I just got back from Pepboys to check my AC out as it's been hot since the rebuild and they are saying max pressure is there. Basically the condenser isnt cooling off enough and is heat soaking.

I'm 100% ducted to the condenser from the FMIC so this is baffling. Anyone have similar issues? I'm now considering taking out the AC because of this.

I do and I have a very thick radiator. Blows ice cold all the way to the track
 
mine blows cold.. had in issue when it was 98 out a few weeks ago in stop and go traffic where it was intermittently blowing warm.. but ever since ice cold..
 
I had the same issue with the 2g. I have the vrsf fmic installed. I thought AC just had no freon charge @ all. I had it check, it was full pressure. I've just decided to ditch it. The car won't be seeing much summer driving anyways, and when it is I can open the windows/sunroof.
 
Well, you get what you pay for.LOL

A free check? I did pay to have them look for leaks though :coy:

It slightly cooler than how it felt before (a heater) but then it would just heat up to the same temperature in about 2 min of use.

I'm thinking I'll just ditch it all for more airflow to the radiator and make use of an alternator relocation kit to keep it away from the heat.
 
Did they tell u it had high discharge pressure??? Try spraying the cond with cold water and see if the head pressure comes down any... may have a bad or dirty cond...
 
Don't ditch the A/C. When you did the rebuild did you have the a/c vacuumed down before the recharge? "Full pressure" can be misleading, you could have a decent amount of air(which has moisture) in the system.
No, the lines were not taken off to my knowledge.

Did they tell u it had high discharge pressure??? Try spraying the cond with cold water and see if the head pressure comes down any... may have a bad or dirty cond...

"Cond" as in condenser? They just said that my pressure was in check. I also cannot readily access my condenser as it's all blocked off from access other than removing the bumper and FMIC.
 
Don't ditch the A/C. When you did the rebuild did you have the a/c vacuumed down before the recharge? "Full pressure" can be misleading, you could have a decent amount of air(which has moisture) in the system.

This is correct. You can see normal or even high psi readings but if you have a leak in the system, (most do and most are small) you will be reading non condensibles, not refrigerant. Air and moisture take the place of refrigerant and dont let the system work the way it was designed to. People that are in the trade can usually read read their gauges and tell if there are non condensibles in a system. However the best way for you to go may be to pull the charge, replace the drier, pull a super good vacuum and recharge the system.

Oh and make sure your evaporator is not restricted and your condensor is clean before doing any of the above.
 
People that are in the trade can usually read read their gauges and tell if there are non condensibles in a system.

How would this become known? I just don't want to spend $100 to find out that it's still not going to work and waste that money.
 
How would this become known? I just don't want to spend $100 to find out that it's still not going to work and waste that money.

You can get a very good idea on this from paying close attention to how the system reacts to feeding it refrigerant and what your needle does, for instance bouncing or fluttering. I dont like to tell anyone to try and do this because it can be misleeding without practice, which is why I didnt elaborate on it before. I was taught by my father who has been in this trade for over 30 years.

I may have looked to far into your question, seems that were were asking how would you know if there is air and moisture instead of actually how to check for it?
 
How would this become known? I just don't want to spend $100 to find out that it's still not going to work and waste that money.

That's about exactly what it's going to cost you. You can replace the dryer yourself and then have them pull the vacuum and charge the system... OR you just buy the equipment and do it yourself for $120. This would include the freon, gauges and vacuum pump and you'll be able to make the money back fixing your friends systems.
 
That's about exactly what it's going to cost you. You can replace the dryer yourself and then have them pull the vacuum and charge the system... OR you just buy the equipment and do it yourself for $120. This would include the freon, gauges and vacuum pump and you'll be able to make the money back fixing your friends systems.

Phunny is pretty much hitting it on the head, although I would expext to pay a little more than this if I was you. Then again it depends on which equipment or shop you go with.
 
What fans do you have?

On my 1g i can fit a 3.5" fmic, oil cooler, a/c coil, aftermarket radiator, both stock fans, and a garrett e cover t3 turbo setup. It blew ice cold in 110* ambient temps, until something fell off a truck and hit the hard line from the acc/dryer and emptied the system.:banghead:
 
I use a 12" SPAL puller (passenger) 1630cfm and a 9" SPAL pusher (driver) 706cfm. This is on a ducted setup that the only air that enters passes through the FMIC and through the condenser and then the radiator. No leaking air anywhere.
 
Added my fmic with removing the stock ducting and no new ducting. Car would overheat with a/c on in summer heat. Radiator was a fluidyne, fmic was an Apexi GTR 3.5" core, and the bumper cover is a 97-99 that had the upper lip cut out. I had two spal fans operating.

Had a shop add some ductwork and I sealed the radiator to te core support with foam and I have no issues with day to day driving with a/c in heat. I never tested that config on track though.
 
Had a shop add some ductwork and I sealed the radiator to te core support with foam and I have no issues with day to day driving with a/c in heat. I never tested that config on track though.

So you are saying that your AC works as well?
 
I think I'll just rid myself of the system. I never really used it and I'd rather not spend about $180 to get new parts and then a new fill to find out I wasted money and it still doesn't cool. I guess I can consider re locating my alternator and enjoy the benefits of increased airflow to the radiator.

Kinda sucks but it is what it is I suppose.

Does anyone know of a spray that can be used on the wind shield to prevent fogging? I know eye glasses and paint ball masks have sprays to prevent fogging, just unsure if there is an automotive version.
 
Rain-x makes a product that you can apply, but it's not in spray form. Wipe on on clean glass, wait a bit, then wipe off excess. Works pretty well.
 
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