A/C working after FMIC?

[LiquidX]

Well I pulled it out. Wasn't too bad at all actually. Just have to be patient with pulling the compressor out with the intake manifold still installed. The dye and/or sealant is nasty. Sprayed everywhere and wasn't expecing that to happen. Wore a full face chemical cartridge APR while cracking the lines.

After pulling it, I no longer have the slight tick I was hearing before. I don't believe the compressor was bad but perhaps it was tensioner?

So much more room in the back and I can easily access the knock sensor and underside of the intake manifold. I left the bracket in place for now until I decide if I want to relocate the alternator. I'll post up pictures on a journal entry later on.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Check the bearing on the compressor. I had a weird clicking/popping noise for a while. Then the compressor seized up. I was missing some of the ball bearings.

 

[blackGSX2g]

I'd hang on to the parts you took off. I initially did the same thing a few years back, since I couldn't use the A/C for more than a few minutes without overheating. A 4 hour drive home from the on the highway in 100* heat with black leather seats quickly changed my mind.

I bought a new factory radiator, went to an external oil cooler, and used a 12" SPAL pusher mounted to the condenser on the D/S. I have half of the FMIC (lower and P/S) sealed to the condenser, and have the condenser sealed to the radiator. Suprisingly it has not overheated once since then, and I've idled it around in 100* hot humid weather on fresh asphalt for an hour or so with no issue.

This is with a 3.5" thick intercooler, and a tubular heat wrapped manifold. No other heat insulation.

+1 on having a vacuum pulled on the system. When I put my system back together, I tried using a can of r134a just to test for leaks. I had the right pressure, compressor would kick on, but no cold air. It was worth the $75 gamble for me to bring it in and hook it up to the machine.

 

[LiquidX]

Matt, you can see what I have done for cooling on my journal entries. I was planning on keeping the parts for a just-in-case. I'd rather have them than buy from someone else. I wasn't even getting cool air and there was a vacuum drawn IIRC.

 

[dsm8883]

No, the lines were not taken off to my knowledge.



"Cond" as in condenser? They just said that my pressure was in check. I also cannot readily access my condenser as it's all blocked off from access other than removing the bumper and FMIC.

yes by cond i mean condenser.. If your pressures are in (check) meaning they are fine you have something else going on with your ac.. the only way a fmic is going to hurt the ac is if it blocks air from getting to the condenser which in turn will make your head or discharge pressure high hurting your ac performance. I would say take it to a real shop, we charge 39.99 for ac checks and you get what you pay for. I will give you pressures and vent temps also cond and evap inlet and outlet temps. Pressures only tell you a little about what is going on in your ac system, temps tell the bigger picture.... Did they write down what the low and high side pressures are??? like low side 45 and high side 200?

 

[BOB SIMON]

OK; same topic, different car.

I have a 1990 TSI that I purchased new; installed a FMIC about 5 years ago and the car tended to overheat whenever I used A/C.. but still cooled very well. Last year the compressor failed; could not get R12 so I had all components replaced (except condenser) at GREAT expense and had it charged with 134. [Thanks for nothing, EPA!]

There are no leaks in the system and all pressures are correct.. nevertheless, at full blast I can barely tell the A/C is running!! (And the temperature gauge needle lays 3/4 to the red zone.) I'm broke, frustrated and sweaty!

In the process of trying to get the Talon to run cooler, I have replaced the radiator, use "Evan's" waterless coolant, intalled one pusher and two puller SPAL fans, and have modified the hood to help allow the heat to escape. All of this has the engine running (even under boost) at less the half on the gauge.. until I turn on the A/C!

Questions: Could the condenser be the issue?? It is not damaged.. but could be possibly blocked? 134 requires a "parallel flow" condenser; is that the type originally installed in the "90's???

Thanks in advance for your suggestions; I have 329,000 miles on this car (50k on new factory engine) and it produces around 300 hp. I love the car but if I cannot get the a/c squared away soon I may just have to sell it.. can't keep putting more time and $ into it.

RJS

 

[97gst_spyder]

You have to remember the hotter the intake air/engine bay/coolant temp is the harder it is for the condenser to release the heat that is needed to make the system work.

Do you feel your compressor kick on and off alot?

 

[BOB SIMON]

It was doing that with the original compressor, but the new one seems to be cycling properly. Aside from radical modifications to my hood.. or painting it white (my Talon is black) I do not know what else I can do to reduce the engine bay temp.

I should mention that the A/C cools very well on cold mornings.. as the heater warms excellent on hot afternoons! (I would execpt not really funny when you have to make business calls in the car.)

Thanks!

 

[97gst_spyder]

Do you have duct work? Is the condenser clean?

 

[BOB SIMON]

I sprayed and hosed the exterior of the condenser and it looks ok; can't speak to the interior. I did not do any ducting.. are you referring to custom fabricated panels that would guide the air toward the condenser? Does that really make a difference?

Thanks,

 

[LiquidX]

...Are you referring to custom fabricated panels that would guide the air toward the condenser? Does that really make a difference?

It makes a world of difference especially if you have a FMIC. You should know that air will take the least resistant path available and if it decides to go through the FMIC, it then enters a space where it can exit out the sides before going to the condenser and radiator.

Some people manage better than others, but in the situation I was in for cooling, I ducted everything and it dropped my temps back down to around the 190s from about 220* cruising.

 

[BOB SIMON]

Interesting. So if I understand, it should help if I fabricate plastic panels that would begin around the opening in the front, center area (where the IC is housed) and then extend to the perimeter of the radiator/condenser where it would be sealed?

Thanks for your response.

 

[Gus@RRE]

AC is a must in california, mine blows ice cold.

 

[dsm8883]

Get a heat gun and get the inlet and oulet temps of the cond. One more thing to keep in mind when retro fitting from r12 you need to charge a custom amount, you can not charge it the same as the r12 system.
Overcharging a system can hurt its performance. Get me the inlet and outlet temps with a real good heat gun or a probe and I can tell you more..

 

[Boosted98gsx]

My A/C works on the highway, but the car no longer controls the idle very well after the Q45 TB install, and the compressor likes to kill the engine when I use the clutch or am at a stoplight.

I can also tell now when the compressor is cycling. The car will cyclically blow cold / warm air.

 

[97gst_spyder]

My A/C works on the highway, but the car no longer controls the idle very well after the Q45 TB install, and the compressor likes to kill the engine when I use the clutch or am at a stoplight.

I can also tell now when the compressor is cycling. The car will cyclically blow cold / warm air.

Check the Freon level. That can cause the compressor to cycle more. Also, running with too little or too much Freon will cause the system to get hotter (condenser) which will increase your coolant temp.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Check the Freon level. That can cause the compressor to cycle more. Also, running with too little or too much Freon will cause the system to get hotter (condenser) which will increase your coolant temp.

It's been checked and is full. I think the condenser is just not condensing well enough.

 

[rEclipserGST]

A/C was not blowing cold after fmic. Then again, car was up & down. Not to mention I did not have an a/c fan for awhile. Pulled vacuum on the car today, filled the system with the $40 a/c recharge kit from walmart. for the best now. Will be ducting soon just because.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I need to duct also. Just haven't had the time or ambition to do it in this heat.