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9psi stock is that right?

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10 PSI is stock so anything less is a boost leak.

If you didn't get a boost gauge that isn't at least like 200 bucks it may just be a piece of crap.
 
i dont have a mbc.. i said i was gunna order one. i was just woundering if 9psi right now is fine?

Hense why I said do a boost leak test to fix the leak and once you get the MBC in, turn it to 14psi. Why wouldn't 9psi be fine to run. No harm in not having boost unless it's from a leak. You just don't want to boost more than what your fuel setup will allow.
 
Boost gauges aren't that complicated really. It's differential pressure between normal air and pressure inside the intake. You can pick up one for 30 bucks for allmost all your needs for now.
 
alright ill do a boost leak test.. quick question though.. how much psi should i put in for checking it like 5-8ish?

It might be hard to find at that low of pressure. Just don't get stupid and try to eaqualize your car with the air compressor. :p With the vehicle being stock and depending on how big the boost leak is, no more then 12-15 psi should reveal your leak!
 
Do a boost leak check. Do a search, you'll find out how to make a tester for $10 worth of parts from your hardware store. Check it at 15lbs because when you get your mbc, that what you should set it at. Get a boost gauge before you start messing with a mbc though. Get a mechanical boost gauge, don't bother with an electronic one, they tend to be laggy.


If you didn't get a boost gauge that isn't at least like 200 bucks it may just be a piece of crap.


:rolleyes:
 
Pressurize you system to at least 20psi. You won't do any harm and you will find all your leaks. You always pressurize more than what you are going to run and at stock levels 20psi is good enough. Use a spray bottle of soap and water and start at teh throttle body elbow looking for leaks and then work the tester back to the turbo fixing any leaks you find.
 
I have never gone above 12psi to find a leak in any turbo stock car. 9.8psi is the max a 4g63t puts out, but thats 100% stock. You could easily get 12-14 on the stock turbo. Which im sure all of you know... just putting in my two cents..
 
I have never gone above 12psi to find a leak in any turbo stock car. 9.8psi is the max a 4g63t puts out, but thats 100% stock. You could easily get 12-14 on the stock turbo. Which im sure all of you know... just putting in my two cents..

You are fine testing to 12psi if you don't boost above 12psi. Most people will see an excess of 12psi boosting so you want to pressurize higher than what you will boost otherwise you could be leaking and you wouldn't know.

I just say 20 because it's a solid number that the engine is capable of holding and it should hold that. If you boost to 35psi you'll test to higher than 35psi to check for leaks.

The stock wastegate is higher than 10psi by the way.
 
sooooooooooo just to make this all clear i pressurize the intake turbo side and the tb so im testing 2 places

Start at the TB elbow and see what's leaking there and fix it. Move to just before the IC so you can then test the IC and the couplers. Fix any leaks or replace the IC if it's bad. Lastly move to the turbo inlet and pressurize the whole system.

You do multiple spots so you can locate leaks easier without worrying about say 5 leaks pre throttle body which would spit out air quicker than at some other seal in the area you are concentrating on first.

Use soapy water and look for bubbles. Spray all over as it won't damage parts and fix anything before you move further back towards the turbo. Pressurize to at least 20psi.
 
I'd just pressurize it from the turbo inlet, take time and follow it all the way to the TB, takes about two mins to setup and its obvious where the leaks are with some soapy water. as for 9psi, thats what i got stock, no leaks or anything. pipes would hold pressure for a while so i know it wasnt a boost leak. every car is different so just get a MBC when you can and have some fun.
 
It's always good to check. I tell people that a boost leak test is part of maintenance and should be done at set intervals to be sure everything is still holding up regardless if you loosened a coupler or not.
 
You are fine testing to 12psi if you don't boost above 12psi. Most people will see an excess of 12psi boosting so you want to pressurize higher than what you will boost otherwise you could be leaking and you wouldn't know.

I just say 20 because it's a solid number that the engine is capable of holding and it should hold that. If you boost to 35psi you'll test to higher than 35psi to check for leaks.

The stock wastegate is higher than 10psi by the way.

So much misinformation. The wastegate on a 14b, or 16g is 6-7 psi. The factory boost control solonoid is the oem boost controller acting on signals from the ecu. Now remember, dsm's do not have a boost pressure sensor. The factory boost level is computed as a load value by the ecu. There is no set number in psi for the stock boost. For one thing the data provided by the knock sensor is stored in the ecu and used to compute the octane timing map, and the settings for the bcs. Also the car will run less boost when it is cold out, compared to warm. This is because the computer computes mass flow of air, and not actual boost presure. Once a certain g/rev load is reached the ecu sends signals to the bcs to halt the rising boost. So to sum it up. The factory boost under optimal conditions is enough airflow to provide the rated hp value. Not a set boost value. Welcome to load based tuning.
 
Stock spring on my 16G is 11psi with no WG solenoid.

At first i thought i was creeping but sure enough it sits at 11psi all day long.
 
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