Spyder '99 Eclipse Spyder GS starts fine then dies seconds later

[CountSethaford]

This is my first post to dsmtuners.com and I hope I haven't missed any threads that could possibly help with my issue.

As mentioned in the title, I have a stock '99 Spyder GS that will start up fine every time then dies seconds later nearly every time (I say "nearly" because the one time my wife started the car so I could inspect under the hood, it stayed running). Before having this issue, I had a problem with the car starting then dying once it warmed up to operating temperature. That was resolved by bypassing the fuel pump relay module as per recommended by several other users. After bypassing the module, the car ran perfectly even after warming up and I was able to drive the car around the block for the first time since owning it. Then, two days later, it's doing what was described earlier; staring then dying seconds later almost as if the key were just turned off.

I also do not have a check engine light on and can hear the fuel pump running when i turn the key on. I have been scouring the internet for the past two weeks and can't seem to find a solution. Any help would be much appreciated.

What has been done/replaced so far (pertaining to the issue or not):
Spark plugs & wires
Timing Belts, tensioner & idler pulleys
Accessory Belts, tensioner pulley
Bypassed the fuel relay module
Fuel injectors
TPS
Valve cover gasket & spark plug tube gaskets
Oil & filter
Driver side motor mount

 

[bigfred]

When changing the timing belt, tensioner and idler pulleys I'm assuming you checked and double checked the timing marks to make sure they are correct and even correct now after trying to run the engine. If everything checks out for the timing you need to check all vacuum lines and make sure you don't have any leaks. Have you made sure that the TPS is properly set. We love pics on helping to diagnose issues like timing etc..

 

[CountSethaford]

The timing was set up correctly initially but I haven't thought to go back into it after being able to drive the car. I'll do that and get pictures. I've inspected my vaccume lines and haven't noticed any vaccume leaks and the TPS was set properly (with no change to the issue at hand between the new and old one). Thanks for the response, I'll get back with the pictures after I get the timing housing apart. I should have went ahead and changed my CPS so that'll be a good excuse to do so anyway!

 

[luv2rallye]

Sounds like possibly no fuel pressure being maintained while engine is off. First check for leaking fuel pressure regulator. Then faulty FP, check valve, clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel line, etc.

 

[CountSethaford]

Sorry for the late update but it's finally running! Replaced my fuel pump and filter with no change, ordered a crank sensor and was getting ready to tear down the pulleys and timing cover when I finally got a check engine light. Checked the code and it was a bad cam sensor. Replaced and has ran steady for the past three days. Thanks for the replies, glad to know there's a good community that can help DSM noobies like myself.