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98' Mitsubishi Eclipse only runs 5 MPH

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Green_Eclipse

Probationary Member
21
0
May 17, 2009
Gulfport, Mississippi
2.0L
Stock Turbo
AWD
Intercooler
Exhaust
Intake
Translab Shift Kit
(May have other parts i do not know about)

After i replaced the oil line that popped out and dumped all my oil and refilled the oil i went to run the car and pedal to the metal car only goes about 5MPH tops (note: this is first time i have run this car and it has been sitting for 7+ months) i noticed black smoke coming out of the exhaust as well. Any helpfull insight as to what the problem may be would be great. I will try to answer any questions in the days to come the more i get to work on it.
 
ok heres what i got. at idle the engine boes buck a little, instruments magically started working and at idle im runnin at about 800rpm, full throttle im barely hittin 2k. boost controller turned all the way up the guage reads 0, all the way down reads 15vac. exhaust smells like gasoline and burnt oil. spewing black soot all over the place. i noticed that in gear there is a loud buzzing noise coming from under the car, any ideas as to what that is? also around where the belts are i hear a high pitched squeaking that has a sort of rhythm to it. a mechanic i know says i may not be runnin on all cylinders, when i get access to tools im gonna pop the spark plugs. when its in drive and i attempt to drive it crawls along and it does choke and sputter and usually almost dies. even starting the car is hard, takes the engine a few turns to start and bogs way down, never starts right up. check engine light is on and fuel and oil but i know it needs an oil change and fuel. Anything else i should look for?
 
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Problem 1 Is your BOV recirculated? It doesn't appear so.

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Where is your fan?


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And I gather the little white T is for your boost gauge?

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Okay, there's your BOV... annd it's not stock. That probably sounds nice and loud, but it's bad for the car, they tend to idle like crap and can stall when you let off the throttle because the factory computer is designed to read X amount of air that enters the engine. It kind of expects that much air to be in the intake. Venting to atmosphere is getting rid of the air and making the car run RICH. (Kind of like eating a burger and some one pumps your stomach, and you're left wondering why you're still hungry.) get a 1g bov. trust me. it's worth it.

I would suggest that you try to return as much of the car to stock as much and as soon as possible. Or at the very least, try to get something straightened out. Start with a shop manual, and buy a basic tool kit that has metric. Get wrenches and Sockets and extensions.

To be honest it looks like the previous owner just threw on parts and didn't do any type of research. I'd suggest pulling off the flashy parts and selling them and getting some factory stuff because to use them you need a LOT of supporting mods, and you're not quite there to use them.

Questions you NEED to answer.

1.) What upgrades does it have? IE Is there a big wire going to the fuel pump? Does the ECU look newer than the rest of the car?
2.) When the oil spilled out, what was it's color? Was it milky, dark? I'm guessing you JUST bought the car, so you got a lot of rubber lines and belts to replace.


By the way,
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with the factory auto and likely tiny turbo, this car probably will lag and shift before it gets any boost. The intercooler is TOO big for the turbo.

If you have the time the car can be worth it, but it's gonna be a learning experiance. :)
 

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Yes the little white T runs to my boost gauge. I dont know where the fuel pump or ECU are, im new to the whole car thing and its making trying to get this thing running that much worse. not to mention im deploying soon so im short on time and money which are essential so most likely i wont get this baby running the way it should till after i get back. next week im going to try and find somewhere i can take it to get it hooked up to a diagnostic to see what they can find, problem is, it wont move on its own power.
 
Yes the little white T runs to my boost gauge. I dont know where the fuel pump or ECU are, im new to the whole car thing and its making trying to get this thing running that much worse. not to mention im deploying soon so im short on time and money which are essential so most likely i wont get this baby running the way it should till after i get back. next week im going to try and find somewhere i can take it to get it hooked up to a diagnostic to see what they can find, problem is, it wont move on its own power.

Buy a Palm pilot and download a datalogger to it. Cost you about $110 but you can use it for tuning later down the road after you fix your problem. You can use this to scan the codes and figure out what the problem is. My datalogger tells me what the code is and I bought it for 115 shipped :thumb:

I would seriously just pull the ECU which is pretty much on the floor near your pedals under neath the center dash. Take off the side cover, unscrew the ECU, and just send it to Steve. He is a doctor when it comes to repairing ECU's. I would suggest you look at it, but you won't know what to look for if it looks clean and there's a blown capacitor :p

After that, you should be 10x closer to solving the problem. Trust me.
 
First don't panic. What you need to do is get a manual for the car. you need to learn to identify the componants under the hood.Dont try to run the car until you do some trouble shooting.When the oilline came undone you poured oil out of the engine, how much oil wae lost? if it was a lot you could have spun a bearing. disconnect the battery.Remove all of the spark plugs take a half inch rachet place it in the bolt of the vibration damper pull up on the rachet in a clockwise rotation, the engine should turn over pretty easy.( if the car has a manual transmission put it in neutral.). If that checks out fine check your timming .This is were you will need the manual.While you are in there check all of your piping on the intake side make sure the plumbing is in good condition. Check to see if the turbo spins freely. dis conect the intake pipe and spin the turbo by hand you should not feel any play or resistance if you do the turbo needs replacing.( check your oil lines to the turbo you might want to replace the crush washers on the banjo fittings.)Also check your intercooler look for any holes or broken welds on it. If you have anything wrong with the intercooler now is the time to fix it. This is a start.Good luck to you and return home safe........
 
Buddy, don't you worry. These folks have your back! I was where you are just about 2 years ago with my first GS, and now working on a GSX. They're picky, stubborn, they're money sucking whores too, but you have to love them because they're sexy!

Some quick links to help you along your journey.
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/index.htm (REALLY wish i had this one when i was starting out!)
http://www.members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/answers-specifications.htm
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

May i also recommend picking up the Haynes manual. I'm working on my second engine swap with that book as my main resource. It jas just about everything you need for basic - major repairs and much much more.
 
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