98 4G63T complete rebuild help/suggestions

[boosted 96 eclipse]

Ok here we go. So I picked up a 98 4G63T to rebuild and am wanting to stick with stock specs in the low end but put 272 cams in. What are stock specs for the low end ( I want to drop in a new crank, rods, pistons, balance shaft delete in the low end) ( top end I want to do 272 cams, valves, valve springs, adjustable time gears). Any ideas on what I should run? Should I just stick with stock spec cams? Do I need to tune the car after this basically stock rebuild? Or just if I drop in 272's? I apologize for all the questions but I don't want to go and buy a bunch of stuff and them not commingle.

 

[boosting_pwr]

It all really depends on how much power you want to make. That will determine if you should stick with a stock bottom end. As for the cams, that all depends on the turbo too. The 272's will help with top end power. As for the tuning aspect of things, do you plan on running bigger injectors, more boost, what size turbo?

 

[boosted 96 eclipse]

I have a 16g turbo I plan on throwing on it. I'm not sure if I need bigger injectors with that turbo or not. I plan on running no more than 20lbs. of boost. I'm not looking for a lot of HP I'm just wanting to make the engine more bullet proof. I want to do forged pistons, rods, and crank. The engine spun a main. What's a decently priced site I can go to to get the parts?

 

[boosting_pwr]

Honestly, if you never plan on going beyond the 16g I would just do a stock rebuilt. It's going to be cheaper. But if you are really set on the forged internals I would start by checking out our supporting vendors on the site. They always have good deals going on or give them a call they will work a good price for you. I started of with an E16g and some 750cc injectors on pump gas. You could get away with some 550's or 650's. I just happened to get a good deal on them that's why I went them.

 

[boosted 96 eclipse]

Ok thank you for the excellent suggestions! Would I need to tune the car after putting in 550's and the 16g? I will be doing the fuel pump rewire also. So then I shouldn't put 272's in it? I just want to do forged internals just so that it can handle more abuse.

Oh and it's just the small 16g.

 

[NHerron]

Have you even measured and evaluated parts yet? Watch all the blueprinting videos on Jafromobile on youtube then download the factory service manual from mitsubishilinks.com. You'll need some machinist tools if you want to do things right.

No questions asked run the factory crank, they are forged and nitride coated. They are proven well over 500 ftlbs easy.

Unfortunatly the 95/96 blocks have the less than desirable thrust bearing system design, try a 1g 6bolt or a 97.5-99 block if you want to aire on the side of caution.

If youre sticking with just a 16g and for sure nothing a big leap bigger, just go OEM rebuild. Contact member bogusvo and ask about the NPR pistons, they can be had cheap online.

And get used to reading, you'll be doing alot of it here. We're talking bloodshot.

 

[boosted 96 eclipse]

I have been looking at parts for it. But this is the first time I will be doing a rebuild myself. The last I had a rebuild done my local machine shop did everything I just bolted everything up. Ok so then just get the stock crank turned as well as get it line honed? This is a 98' rebuild not a 96'. So then just do aftermarket rods and pistons? What about my top end any suggestions? I would like to avoid having to tune this at all costs but If its unavoidable with this set up then can I buy a tune for this set up? I'm retarded when it comes to this safc2 haha. I'm ok with reading because I would rather do this right the first time.

 

[boosting_pwr]

If your looking to modify the car and run more boost or bigger injectors your going to need to tune it. If you don't want to tune at all just do a stock rebuild and put in a T-25 and run stock boost. Getting the car tuned properly is going to be a big thing otherwise you will end up hating the car and feel like you wasted your money. If I were you I would start modifying little by little. Out of all of the mods I've done I think ECMLink was the best one.

 

[boosted 96 eclipse]

Is the dsmlink easy to use?

 

[BogusSVO]

There is alot of support for link, so that is one the top choices.

Will you post a few pics of the spun main in the block and the crank.

Depending on your part of the country, you may be better off sourcing another short block to build, then having a block aligned honed.

What is your goal for HP? Also what budget do you have to work with?

 

[NHerron]

My bad, didn't see that quick spun a main comment.

But B is here so all is well

 

[boosted 96 eclipse]

I haven't been able to post pictures on here. But where the main was spun there are very fine grooves. They should be able to line hone and turn the crank without any problems. I got lucky finding this long block. I want to run about 300hp I just want it to be a little more than stock. Budget isn't really known I have a kid and one on the way so whenever I have left over money I buy stuff. I was the one who e-mailed you earlier about the NPR pistons haha.

But I don't really want to have to tune the car. So I would like to stay away from that but the downside is that I would like to throw on a small 16g and no bigger.

Tomorrow I can try to get some pictures of the block and crank. I may just e-mail them to you.

 

[BogusSVO]

Ok so a close to stock build, that will keep the budget in check.

With what you are saying and wanting to do stock rod and pistons will be a fine combo.

Add to the crank work removing the oil galley balls in the crank., there is a very good chance of hard packed crud being behind the balls that will loosen up and go into the rod bearings.

 

[boosted 96 eclipse]

Thank you for the excellent advice! Is there a certain place I can get the rods and pistons? Ok I will have that done with the crank. Any opinions on the head? I plan to replace the cams with stock I just don't know what cams would be close to stock. 264's? If that crud breaks free it will spin a main again I'm guessing?

 

[BogusSVO]

The rod bearings are the last to get oil, so the crud ends up there.

Unless you want to tune, do not worry about cams.

Check to see what letter cams you have.

Depending on how much cylinder wear you have, you may have to bore and get new pistons.

Just recondition the rods you have and run them.

 

[boosted 96 eclipse]

Ok. So just get stock cams to replace these ones?

What about valves and valve springs?

There isn't even a ridge on any of the cylinder walls I was just gonna deglaze them.

What do you mean by recondition?

Would I need to tune if I throw in a 16g and 550's?

How do I find out what letter cams they are?

Sorry about that stupid question about replacing the cams with stock ones. I re read what you said about not worrying about the cams haha.