After a complete rebuild.

[Dred]

So basically this is what happened.

My bottom end has been completely rebuilt, and the only thing modified was the removal of balance shafts. The head has been ported and polished, and Ferrea 1mm oversized valves have been installed. Dropped the engine in on sunday, it ran for about 10mins, then stalled. Started up for a couple of mins, stalled again. Third time tried to start, felt 0 copression. Pulled the head, and noticed that all my intake valves are bent. Before I pulled the head obviously I check the timing marks, they were in place. Used a new tensioner and everything. Took the head to a different machine shop than from what I had my valves and port job at, asked them to measure everything including the valve length, I was told there was no error in the machining or installation of the vlaves. Does anyone have any idea as to what may have cause this? Now, I didn't use the thickest headgasket there is, I went w/ the stock one. I'm thinking that this might have happend on the overlapping, not sure. Any ideas would be appretiated.


P.S. Lifters were knocking like crazy for the whole 10 mins that the engine ran I re-used the lifter that i had before (cleaned them, and resoaked in oil). Does anyone have any measurements as to how far the valve should be open on the opverlap, and where to measure from and to? Thnx for the info.

 

[Staytuned]

You didn't re-prime the lifters did you? Putting in full lifters can be devasting on valves.

 

[Dred]

If by reprimig them you mean soak them in oil after cleaning, yes i did. I also turned the engine over a few times by hand to check if any lifters weren't compressing, they were. Also, I ran the idea of valves coming into contact w/ the pistons due to bad lifters, and he told me that it shouldn't happen. I guess what it comes down to is valve clearence at overlapping. Has anyone any other ideas, ### reply.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

You didn't re-prime the lifters did you? Putting in full lifters can be devasting on valves.

That was what I was going to say before I read his post. Sounds like you put in full lifters and they didn't have enough give and shoved the valve's into the pistons. Would also be why you heard them ticking.

 

[Dred]

So then a) I shouldn't prime the lifters? and b) Since the lifters get pumped w/ oil while the car is running, doesn't the same thing happen as if i prime them prior to cranking? I did ask the machine shop if this can be because of bad lifters, he told me no, although it was my first concern, has this happened for anyone because of bad lifters?

 

[boostedinaz]

There is a little plate that goes over the forn Bshaft belt and is used for the timming mark on the crank. It goes on 2 ways. One way is correct and the other will throw the timming off a huge amout but still "looks" correct with all the marks lined up. This will kill valves in a few minutes just like you described. My buddy went through 2 fresh heads before finding this out.

 

[Dred]

Hmm, I just took a look at my pistons again and it looks like I have clearence issues at overlapping. The valve marks are very light and right on the grove in the pistons. Also, I usually look at the plate to see the sproket imprints before I put the plate on, although I don't remember 100% that i did it, good think I didn't take the crank sprocket off, i'll go ahead and check it. If it is a clearence issue tho, what do you guys suggest? Should I machine the groves in the pistons a little, measure, and see if i need to do it again? Does anyone know if any aftermarket pistons come with deeper groves?

 

[boostedinaz]

Hmm, I just took a look at my pistons again and it looks like I have clearence issues at overlapping. The valve marks are very light and right on the grove in the pistons. Also, I usually look at the plate to see the sproket imprints before I put the plate on, although I don't remember 100% that i did it, good think I didn't take the crank sprocket off, i'll go ahead and check it. If it is a clearence issue tho, what do you guys suggest? Should I machine the groves in the pistons a little, measure, and see if i need to do it again? Does anyone know if any aftermarket pistons come with deeper groves?

If the timming is correct then they should not touch at all. The block and head would have to have a LOT taken off of them for this to happen.