97 GST wont start!

[Semprini]

Well it basically came up out of no where. Started my car one day and it was idling really bad. It would only run for a min tops and if I hit the gas more than Id say 10% throttle it would cut out. Just lightly pressing the throttle would rev it up to about 2K but it wouldnt hold there. This didnt last long to the point where it just cranks but wont fire. I started searching on here. Thinking maybe CAS, coils ect. Replaced plugs and wires so far since they were due anyway. Bought a used coil pack, but Id thought Id test mine out, and the plugs are firing. Im almost postive the injectors are working as well, I can smell gas and the plugs get fouled. Ive had to pull them twice and clean them off. Right now Im stumped. Im ready to set it on fire. I just wrote a check for 2600 for a rebuilt trans a week before these. Please help me out, thanks

 

[HighFlowDSM]

Dont go and set it on fire yet....is it getting any spark at all? Try somthing out turn your key on and tell me if your CEL comes on before you try and turn it over. it sounds like to me it might be your ECU might have crapped out on you.

 

[Semprini]

Dont go and set it on fire yet....is it getting any spark at all? Try somthing out turn your key on and tell me if your CEL comes on before you try and turn it over. it sounds like to me it might be your ECU might have crapped out on you.

Yes all four plugs are firing. I have remote start on it, so I just pulled one at a time and cranked it over with the remote. Its getting fuel bc it has fouled the plugs, but I pull them and clean them. I also checked the wiring for my SAFC and everything is in tact. Ever since Ive had it back from the trans being rebuilt the CEL light has been on. That has only been about 300 miles. CEL light comes on before and goes off about 2 seconds into the cranking.


Also Ive been seeing posts about the coolant temp sensor. Its been pretty cold lately, but today it was almost 50. Would that only effect it when its actually cold or could it be shot?

 

[HighFlowDSM]

Yes all four plugs are firing. I have remote start on it, so I just pulled one at a time and cranked it over with the remote. Its getting fuel bc it has fouled the plugs, but I pull them and clean them. I also checked the wiring for my SAFC and everything is in tact. Ever since Ive had it back from the trans being rebuilt the CEL light has been on. That has only been about 300 miles. CEL light comes on before and goes off about 2 seconds into the cranking.


Also Ive been seeing posts about the coolant temp sensor. Its been pretty cold lately, but today it was almost 50. Would that only effect it when its actually cold or could it be shot?

I would check that also because have a bad one could have the computer to tell the engine not to start because it controls the spark rate to help the engine to warm up so it could be drivin in opperating engine temp. And that might be why your CEL light was on when you get it back.

 

[mindset]

The coolant temp sensor could be a possibility. If they're bad, they will make the car harder to start and give you a headache
But, if your car is only staying on for a minute or two, it could be the fuel pump.

 

[HighFlowDSM]

The coolant temp sensor could be a possibility. If they're bad, they will make the car harder to start and give you a headache
But, if your car is only staying on for a minute or two, it could be the fuel pump.

It wouldnt be a fuel pump because his spark plugs are getting fouled so they are not burning the fuel needed to keep it running.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

Massive Vac leak?

Have you done a good boost leak test yet? Also, check the MAF cable to make sure no wires got cut/pinched or maybe the connection is bad.

Stock ECU?

 

[Semprini]

It would have to be a pretty bad boost leak to not run at all I would think. Ive had my lower IC pipe blow off and it would still start, but of course run like crap. Now its not running at all. It doesnt even try to start. Is it possible that it could be the temp sensor? If it was the ECU wouldnt it have just gone completely right away, or run like crap like it did at first then not at all like how it sits now? This is really frustrating

 

[habitatguy187]

First you need to pull the CEL code and go one step at a time, don't spend any more money on CAS or CTS sensors until you find out what the CEL is on for.

 

[Semprini]

Is it possible for me to do that without taking it somewhere?

 

[habitatguy187]

Yeah, but it'd be easier for you to go look it up in a haynes or chiltons manual than for me to explain it to you. Not to be a jerk, it's just that pictures help a great deal sometimes. You'll also need a analog volt meter. ($10-15 at autozone ect.)

 

[knochgoon24]

Yeah, but it'd be easier for you to go look it up in a haynes or chiltons manual than for me to explain it to you. Not to be a jerk, it's just that pictures help a great deal sometimes. You'll also need a analog volt meter. ($10-15 at autozone ect.)

Wrong... guess again.
For the 2g, you'll need a OBD2 scanner. The volt meter trick doesn't work. You can "rent" one from an Autozone or Advance Auto.

 

[black_gst]

i had a simlar thing happen to me it turned out i forgot to plug my MAS back in when i was reinstalling my turbo

 

[habitatguy187]

Wrong... guess again.
For the 2g, you'll need a OBD2 scanner. The volt meter trick doesn't work. You can "rent" one from an Autozone or Advance Auto.

hmmm, learn something new everyday! I also didn't know you could rent the obd2's.

 

[Semprini]

Even without the engine running will the ECU still put a code out? The CEL light goes out after a few seconds of cranking. Sorry Im an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff. Alright, tomorrow Ill go to AutoZone and that OBD2 scanner and hook it up. I have a Haynes somewhere, but if I cant find it, where do I hook the scanner into.

 

[mindset]

Even without the engine running will the ECU still put a code out? The CEL light goes out after a few seconds of cranking.

It wouldn't hurt to try. But I'm sure if it's on for only a few seconds, the ECU should still give a code.

 

[Semprini]

Well I just got the scanner from AutoZone and I hooked it up. PASS no codes from vehicle. So now WTF do I do.

 

[Semprini]

Someone mentioned that the ECU may be in limp/safe mode. I did a search and its only coming up for autos. Does this only apply to an auto ECU??

 

[4gGs-t]

I would check timing

 

[Semprini]

what would knock the timing off? I had the actual timing belt service done a little less than a year ago. Someone had mentioned that to me as well, so I atleast hope it wouldnt be that.

 

[Semprini]

Feb 11th UPDATE: Ok now shits just retarded. Ive been messing around with it today just trying different shit. So I pulled wire 3 and 2 (4 and 1 fire together same with 3 and 2) and I pulled the number 3 plug out, left it open. Turned the key and it was trying to start. Instead of just cranking it was firing a little. So I put the plug and wires back in and tried again. It wont turn over but its trying. I got it running for a couple of seconds but it was THEE roughest idle I have ever seen/heard. I dont even know how to explain it.

 

[DarkStarMenace]

Your charging system is working order rt? I mean good battery and alternator. If both of these are not in top form, they could cause this. Another thing to look at is the time frame of the repair shop and you issues currently. Go over the work space around the trans, possible they didn't secure or connect something. Funny thing about these 2G DSM's is for them to set a code, they need to run their monitors, to run their monitors they need go thru a drive pattern. No matter how much you drive a 2G Eclipse, you will never get their monitors to set properly. You need to go to a Mitsu Dealer to unlock the fault pattern, then do the drive pattern to set monitors. I ran into this when I had to smog my car. It passed the drive test but not the OBD2 test thru the connector. I had to spend $120 to have the dealer unlock the faults and set the monitors, they called me to let me know it was ready and finished, but I couldn't turn it off b/c that would reset the monitors. That was my story, not your issue. You would normally get a misfire code if it had one b/c there are universal codes that must be identified under OBD2 standards.
The best thing you could do is go over the area the repair shop was in to make sure they weren't the cause of this issue.

 

[boostingsx98]

I had the same problem you did and it ended up being my coil pack....

 

[rstchris]

If you have spark and fuel there shouldn't be much left. If the plugs are wet then it's over fueling, if you are running a stock fuel system then look into the clt. Check the compression too.

 

[Semprini]

If you have spark and fuel there shouldn't be much left. If the plugs are wet then it's over fueling, if you are running a stock fuel system then look into the clt. Check the compression too.

Charging system/batt are fine. Fuel system is stock except for a SAFC. I checked the connections for that and those are also fine. I also just cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. Today its still trying to start but it just wont. Fuel and spark is there, but somthings off. Im going to check all of my timing marks tomorrow. Ive been told my belt may have jumped. It also was just replaced not too long ago.