2G 95 TSi fuel cut? Sputtering? Im lost...

[AlaskanBuilt]

I'm a newb, hence why I'm posting in the newb forum. I'm having an issue where I'm getting sputtering, or maybe fuel cut right round 4k RPM's while in a 3rd gear pull. I have attached a screenshot of the log from ECMLink where I'm having this issue. I have done some searching, and I have seen folks with similar issues were told to shorten the gap on their spark plugs? Also, and this concerns me the most, I know the boost psi is just an estimate on the log, but does 27lbs sound right? That's almost as much as my diesel makes. Mods I have done are, 1G BOV, Evo3 16G, Evo3 560 injectors, 3" turbo back exhaust. Any help would be appreciated, thanks for your time.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Post an actual log with your full, relative mod list. Boostest is not a measure of actual boost. My guess is you're running out of injector/fuel pump without knowing anything else.

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

My bad, I forgot to include the Walbro 190 in the mods list. When you say a log with mod list, do you mean things like fuel flow? Anything else I should add to the log before I post another? Thanks

 

[Vegas Smith]

By mods, I mean modifications like cams, intake manifold, fuel pressue, etc.

I would log wide band, injector duty cycle, map sensor if you have one.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Someone correct me if I’m wrong. I believe if your global is off, the boost est gets inflated. That’s what I saw when I was dialing in my injectors. Now that it’s dialed in, the boost est is pretty accurate for me.

Look to see where your logs are saved. Then select add photo/file on here and look for the log. If you can’t find it, save the log to your desktop and add it that way.

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

Engine internals are stock. I have added some more values to the log, fuel flow, inj duty, and MAF. I have added the log from last night, along with a screenshot of where the issue occurred. The log is pretty long as I had it recording during the entire drive. The issue happened shortly after 483 seconds into the log. Thank you for your help.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I haven’t looked at your log yet.

So your mods are

1G BOV, Evo3 16G, Evo3 560 injectors, 3" turbo back exhaust, walbro 190.

What’s your plugs gapped to?

How much boost are you running?

Do you have a wideband?

Pump gas?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Looks like you just got the car, or just got it running. Read below before doing anything. You can also check Jafromobile on youtube. He has a great series of videos. The ones you'd want to watch are tuning 101 and go from there.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tuning-with-ecmlink-v3.448002/

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

My plugs are gapped to .028. I'm not sure exactly how much boost I'm running, just the estimate ECM link tells me. I'm still using the stock BCS. I don't have a wideband. I just go off the AFR estimate off of ECM link. I am using pump gas, premium of course. I purchased the car in February, after getting it to where it would run correctly, replaced TPS, IAC, FPR, it of course came with a head gasket leak. Fixed that and have been driving it daily since. Slowly added the mods, and made sure to not install the injectors until I had ECM link. Ill check out that link, and have watched some of jafromobiles videos, but have not watched tuning 101, Ill check it out. Thank you

 

[AWD-Tony]

I saw it was idling at around 1700 and the throttle needed adjustment. I would get the car idling properly first. You’d also want to invest in a boost gauge and wideband. There are some helpful demos on ecmlink’s website as well. Basic, but it’ll help you understand what going on and why you’re making adjustments.

I didn’t check if you dialed in your injectors. That’s important to get the car running properly

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

Thank you for looking into my log. I have noticed when I let off the throttle it does idle high, I do need to get that taken care of. I have been reading up on that in the ECMTuning-wiki. I used the adjustment tool in ECM Link to configure my injectors, the automatic one. I haven't taken any steps to dial them in yet, still learning how to use the system.

I have started looking at wideband, the LC-1 from innovative motorsports seems to be quite popular. Do you have any recommendations for a boost gauge?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Boost gauge imo doesn’t really matter which brand. I have autometer but it sticks on the vacuum side. Some people use glowshift without any issues. Which ever one you like and your budget allows. AEM has a unit that can log boost but that’s $200ish IIRC.

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

So I go to adjust the throttle body speed adjusting screw, only to find out its missing. Ugh I'm tired of finding things wrong with this car that the PO didn't take care of, or shortcuts taken.

 

[AWD-Tony]

So I go to adjust the throttle body speed adjusting screw, only to find out its missing. Ugh I'm tired of finding things wrong with this car that the PO didn't take care of, or shortcuts taken.

Good job!! Good news is they’re only a few bucks with a new o ring. Before you order that, do a boost leak test to see if you need any other gaskets. You’ll most likely have leaks around the throttle body. Very common especially our cars being almost 30 years old. If you still have an EGR, check that gasket also. Another common leak are injector seals.

If you need a boost leak tester for small turbo, it’s really cheap. Run to Home Depot or Lowe’s and by this thing (not sure what it’s called and it comes with worm clamps) and a cap for it. Drill it and install a metal tire valve. It’ll cost you around $10.

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[Vegas Smith]

So I go to adjust the throttle body speed adjusting screw, only to find out its missing. Ugh I'm tired of finding things wrong with this car that the PO didn't take care of, or shortcuts taken.

It won't be the last time you find something like that.

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

Good job!! Good news is they’re only a few bucks with a new o ring. Before you order that, do a boost leak test to see if you need any other gaskets. You’ll most likely have leaks around the throttle body. Very common especially our cars being almost 30 years old. If you still have an EGR, check that gasket also. Another common leak are injector seals.

If you need a boost leak tester for small turbo, it’s really cheap. Run to Home Depot or Lowe’s and by this thing (not sure what it’s called and it comes with worm clamps) and a cap for it. Drill it and install a metal tire valve. It’ll cost you around $10.

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I watched jafromobile video on where he built one of those, seems pretty straight forward. Much cheaper than buying one.

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

It won't be the last time you find something like that.

Its not the first time either. As I was taking the head off to replace the head gasket, purchased the car with a head gasket leak, one of the PO decided to add some radiator stop leak to the system. Some of the coolant passages in the block were clogged with the stop leak.

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

So I called the local Mitsubishi dealership, and was able to order the speed adjusting screw and locknut. There’s only one warehouse in the country that stocks them, in Los Angeles. Have to wait a good week, but at least I’ll get what I need.

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

So a little update. I installed the speed adjusting screw and locknut yesterday, 1 and 1/4 turn after first contact with the pulley. Got ECM link connected, set the TPS to 0.36v with the engine off, which was a PITA to say the least. Started up the car and proceeded to adjust the BISS screw so the ISC motor would be around 30. Come to find out the PO had the BISS screw turned all the way out, the ISC motor would not even register at first. Its a shame some owners do not take care of these cars, or don't do the research on how to properly take care of them.

 

[AWD-Tony]

So a little update. I installed the speed adjusting screw and locknut yesterday, 1 and 1/4 turn after first contact with the pulley. Got ECM link connected, set the TPS to 0.36v with the engine off, which was a PITA to say the least. Started up the car and proceeded to adjust the BISS screw so the ISC motor would be around 30. Come to find out the PO had the BISS screw turned all the way out, the ISC motor would not even register at first. Its a shame some owners do not take care of these cars, or don't do the research on how to properly take care of them.

TPS should be .63. Not sure if that’s a typo

 

[AlaskanBuilt]

TPS should be .63. Not sure if that’s a typo

Yes 0.63 my bad, it was a typo