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95 gsx intake leak??

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launchgsx

Probationary Member
12
0
Aug 12, 2006
westport, Massachusetts
i have a question about a 95 mitsubishi eclipse gsx, i have a little bit of oily residue in ic lines and throttlebody/intake manifold i was told to spray it all with brakecleaner and if idle raises i havea leak, i have done this repetedly no idle raise, is there a common place intakes leak or and ideas
also i have hita unlucky spell i order a nopi #1 downpipe eliminate cat, got it and went to bolt it up it was about 2.5 inch to long, brought it back they said it must have been a bad batch, now i got a new different brand, got pacesetter ceramic coated, now i installed this today it was rubbing againts oil pan and transfercase, now if im not mistaken if i drive it like that my exhaust will be junk in no time with the twisting , because it is firmly against it, and at the end of the pipe where it connect to cat/test pipe, will never line up with my catback it is at about a 45% angle towards drivers side door, anyone else ever come across this problem???? thanks
 
Regarding the oil residue in your intake, what is leading you to believe this is being caused by a leak? Oil in the IC piping is typically caused by blowby through the valve cover breather line that is recirculated to your intake pipe. Many people install a oil separator or catch can to eliminate this occurrence. If you have other evidence to support a leak in your charge system, do a boost leak test.

As far as your exhaust, you do not want it coming into contact with any other components. Aside from the damage you will incur to the exhaust itself, the heat transfer from the exhaust will also put the adjacent components at risk.
 
i was told by the owner of a speedshop near by he has a gst , was looking at my car and there was oil near the tb, he told me to check the lines to see if oil in them, and to spray intake manifold and tb with brakekleen and if idle raise you ahvea leak, my idle didnt raise at all, i was thinking might be becase owner before me had it venting to atmosphere but i dont know if that could cause oil in the lines.. waitin for downpipe then ill run that boost leak test
ordered a new apex downpipe, anyone know if that is direct fit or should i expect something to be wrong with this one to LOL... thanks
 
launchgsx said:
i was told by the owner of a speedshop near by he has a gst , was looking at my car and there was oil near the tb, he told me to check the lines to see if oil in them, and to spray intake manifold and tb with brakekleen and if idle raise you ahvea leak, my idle didnt raise at all, i was thinking might be becase owner before me had it venting to atmosphere but i dont know if that could cause oil in the lines.. waitin for downpipe then ill run that boost leak test
ordered a new apex downpipe, anyone know if that is direct fit or should i expect something to be wrong with this one to LOL... thanks
Just to clarify, are you currently recirculating the BOV or is it still vented? Venting the BOV will not cause any oil accumulation in the IC or piping. It will just make your engine run like crap.

I'm not familiar with the flanges on Apex systems or the ones on your catback system, but if they're similar, you shouldn't have any fitment issues. If not, however, you might have to find someone to cut off at least one of the flanges and weld on a replacement so that they match.
 
currently i am recirculating now, was venting previously, got apex n1 , rite now im grinding down where you bolt it to the tab , rite where it bolts to o2 sensor housing there 2 bolts from housing then a tab coming off downpipe have to grind it down so downpipe will go up, been grinding for a while now , might have to cut it off still not fitting down to almost nothing LOL.. but as for oil that just what i was told i got a new fmic and piping, so when i change it, ill be able to tell if it still leaving oil in pipes
 
The guy telling you about the brake cleaner will work if you have a vacuum leak but not an oil leak. Like stated previosly the oil in the pipes are from blow-by. If your car has miles on it it typical to have blow-by. When you do the new intercooler and pipes you will still get oil in them also over time.But you can do the catch can idea or just do this

http://www.tgilmore.com/talon/catchcan.html

It works pretty well to keep most of it out of your pipes. As for your oil leak youll probally have to spray the motor off real good and just watch for the oil to leak or build back up.
 
thanks a bunch just put in the filter see how that works intercooler all set up, waiting for a apexi cat back now because vibrant one didnt fit at flange with the apexi downpipe (, waitin for turbo to come in also with manifold, one im all set ill let ya know how it went

one more question, with the boost controller i bought a turbo xs standard boost controller, the way it is shown to be set up in the instructions is different then how everyone shows it to be done on these treads, the instruction say put it between wastegate and source itself and just block off the hole on intake

in tread on here is shown to tap into line going to bov, which is the one that should be done??? lost here should i go with the instructions? thanks
 
Any thread that instructs you to tap the MBC into the BOV line is outdated. It will work, but many have experienced problems with this method, and tapping into a source upstream of the throttle body normally cures them. You can install a 1/8" NPT barbed fitting in your J-pipe, since the 16Gs lack a nipple on the compressor housing. Most auto parts or hardware stores will have the part you need. Just start with a small drill bit and work your way up slowly.

You will have to install a rubber cap on the nipple from the intake pipe to prevent any leaks. Keep in mind you will also have to leave the boost control solenoid in place and connected to avoid a CEL. Just disconnect all the vacuum lines from it.

Hope that helps.
 
thanks a bunch, why would i need to leave bcs though what is a cel? i have all lines unpluged only thing it good for is the wires going to it think it might be a relay not sure though thanks again for help
 
CEL = check engine light. The ECU will recognize that the BCS is unplugged and throw a code. The thing next to the BCS is a generator relay, and you need to leave that there as well. Just leave everything plugged in with the vacuum lines disconnected from the BCS.
 
thanks a bunch , btw it looks like u have the ssautochrome intercooler if it is , for the lower pipes i have the small j shape pipe and the long one with a smaller j at the end, i used a piece of the stock flex piping i cut it to same length as the smaller j and used that to connect to turbo is that what you did as well, curious how others did it
 
Yes, it's an SS Autochrome IC, but I found a different way to make it work. I have a Buschur J-pipe with about an inch trimmed off the end. I didn't use the 2-inch diameter 90* pipe bend that came with the kit. Rather, I trimmed an inch off the pipe with the neckdown and used a 90* silicone coupler to fit it directly to the J-pipe. You gotta love knockoffs...
 
Here you go. I apologize for the poor lighting and the atrocious photoshop skills, but it's the best I could do at the moment.

RED arrow - J-pipe
BLUE arrow - 90* silicone elbow
GREEN arrow - IC pipe with neckdown

Let me know if you need something better.
 

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thank you for the picture, just got turbo in yesterday had to stop last nite cant get the lower oil line male and female connection undone , gonna go back out and try it again that all i have left holding it up LOL, always a speedbump somehow.. btw do you know what size that nut is i got a 11mm on it , and it is extremely tight on it and wen i use my strength i just spins on it , no other smaller wrench fits either, isnt stripped either.. thanks
 
i got it off finally everything is in exhaust and new turbo only prob i have now is leaking oil at top and bottom of oil line where connect to oil pan, leaking from the screws 3 out of the 4 of them , no idea where to put coolant resevoir now though, btw had to cut off part off fan to fit piping to lower pipe did anyone else have that issue?
 
I didn't have to do anything to the fans to get my piping to fit. How far did you space the IC core from the mounting points?

You'll have to find an extra spot to mount the reservoir. Most people opt for the stock sidemount location. That's where I'll be putting mine when I find a bracket that will work. In the meantime I'm using a 32 oz gatorade bottle (pretty ghetto, but it works).
 
donmagicjuan said:
I didn't have to do anything to the fans to get my piping to fit. How far did you space the IC core from the mounting points?

You'll have to find an extra spot to mount the reservoir. Most people opt for the stock sidemount location. That's where I'll be putting mine when I find a bracket that will work. In the meantime I'm using a 32 oz gatorade bottle (pretty ghetto, but it works).

i coudnt find any brakets,so i cut some thin steel,bent and drilled holes.. works.
 
i have mines about a inch off the frame for spacers, so it clear the lines good. all i did was cut the bottom of the fan off with a dremel i cut one of the 4 that are there so still 3 others to hold it up nice, and use stock intercooler piping to connect to lower intercooler pipes working fine now took it all off put indian head on the gaskets and put some hit temp liquid gasket on everything dripped out a drop in like 20mins of driving , hit it with more liquid gasket will tell ya how i made out
 
Spacing it that far off the mounts must have meant you had to cut a ton out of the bumper! I only spaced mine about 1/2" and I was getting close to running out of room.

Just make sure you do a good boost leak test when you have everything all buttoned up. The couplers fit snugly on the pipes themselves, but I had to really torque the hell out of the clamps over the actual core to get them to hold pressure.
 
blew the bottom ones off today , but order a 90 degree elbow hopefully work better, also how did u recirculate you bov, from my intake to bov a really odd shape that i dunno what to make it out of

also i left my car on ramps for 3 weeks only in the from and it was held up by my shitty ebrake, and leaving it in first gear, ever since then reverse and fourth hard to get into anything i can do about this, and is it from leaving it like that, ever since i put turbo in i havnt even gotten on the car yet highest i shifted at was like 5grand dont think i blew tranny..... i need a new clutch master cyclinder it leaks but i have fluid in it i have one just hant put in yet could that be it i thought if it was master cylinder it would be all gears no....
thanks
 
I found it very difficult to recirculate the BOV with the piping from the IC. I was able to get it to fit ok, but the hose was badly kinked, which caused a serious lag between shifts. That is the whole reason I am switching to a GM MAF setup, so that I can vent the BOV and not worry about it. I'd bet if you needed to, you could get creative with some tubing to find a cheaper solution though.

I'm not sure about your clutch problem, but I would definitely repair any leaks to the hydraulic system right away. If the problem persists after that, try to see what you can turn up with a search. If that doesn't help, then start a new thread on it.

Good luck!
 
i saw a car last nite with recirculatory with our fmic kit, he used the tubing from behind a dryer the one with the little wire going around it holding it open, its flexible , he used that and it seemed to be working fine going to try that
as for the tranny i have no idea it goes into fourth now but reverse will go in just doesnt feel like it in all the way, scared to let out the clutch everytime thinking it going to grind but it doesnt, checked shifter see if anything got in behind it and nothing
 
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