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95 GST unknown problem revs up fine and bogs down to 100 rpm

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Solace Lost

10+ Year Contributor
78
0
Jul 28, 2011
Lagrange, Georgia
Hey guys, couldnt find any threads with my particular problem so.... I just installed a greddy type s bov. I took it for a ride and did a few hard pulls. It ran great at first. but, after my last one, there was a little bit of gray smoke coming out from under the hood. Now the car idles fine, but when i rev it up, it bogs back down to almost nothing.. and then it goes back to normal. now driving is a different story, the car will get up to about 2k and act like it has a major boost leak and starts to sputter BAD:banghead:. but there is no boost leak.. at least not one major enough to cause this crap. also, when parked and revving, the boost gauge shows some pretty strange fluctuating in the vacuum.. not sure if I have a vacuum leak or not.. annnnd right when all of this started happening im getting a very annoying belt squeek that usually goes away after a couple minutes. any input would be greatly appreciated! thanks!
 
Ok first off, did you hook the vacuum lines up right on new bov. Are you recirculating the bov. Did you accidentally knock off any other vacuum lines during install or forget to hook them back up. The belt thing is probably just a bad belt, check them if they are dry rotted or have cracks replace.
 
Thanks for the replies! Yes its recirculated. Yes vac lines are hooked up correctly. And I set the bov a little from the middle setting toward the hard side. When I got the car, the guy had the bov vented.. ran tgat way for a few weeks til I got this type s.
 
Yesh it ran ok.. had the occasional flooding from running pig rich because there was no gm maf or maft. So I would have to put it in neutral and rev up, then I put it back in gear and it would run fine. Got sick of that so I got the greddy so I could recirculate. I'm pretty confident the flange isn't leaking.. I got it off a friend and we boost leak tested it to 30 lbs before and it held fine. I'm only running 15 psi..
 
Well I meant the flange to uicp where there is a gasket could be leaking. Do you get a check engine light at all. Just a shot in the dark but try disconnecting the battery for a bit, to reset the Ecu. Cars and Ecus can be funny sometimes. Also clean your maf good with some Maf cleaner. It could be the Ecu is so used to running that way it needs to be reset.
 
Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http:/ifts was it a smooth woos or did it surge.[/QUOTE]

It sounded good. Whistled like it should.

Well I meant the flange to uicp where there is a gasket could be leaking. Do you get a check engine light at all. Just a shot in the dark but try disconnecting the battery for a bit, to reset the Ecu. Cars and Ecus can be funny sometimes. Also clean your maf good with some Maf cleaner. It could be the Ecu is so used to running that way it needs to be reset.

At first I had no cel. Then after the smoke and sputtery ass drive home I reset the ecu multiple times between troubleshooting.. I got one cel. Reset it and don't have one as of now.... Oh yeah I forgot to mention we boost tested the bov while mounted on the uicp. Gasket is in good shape
 
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if you were vented, and now recirc, your fuel trims are ###### all ####ed up. I would reset ecu (disconnect battery), and drive it for 30 mins to repopulate your combinedft... then try a pull or 2. u have dsmlink or anything?
 
Bb:hellyeah:
if you were vented, and now recirc, your fuel trims are ###### all ####ed up. I would reset ecu (disconnect battery), and drive it for 30 mins to repopulate your combinedft... then try a pull or 2. u have dsmlink or anything?

I don't have link. I can't even drive around because it seriously shutters and bucks when I barely hit throttle. I even tried running vented with the new bov and I get the same crap.
 
hmm try resetting the ecu by disconnecting it for awhile? also... might sound stupid, but are you sure the maf plug is connected? i forgot to plug it in once and the car ran like a pig and i was like wtf for about 10 minutes... haha

other than that, could be a vacuum leak... i'd just start rechecking the vacuum lines again... u said you got a cel... do u have access to a reader to see what it was?
 
if you were vented, and now recirc, your fuel trims are ###### all ####ed up. I would reset ecu (disconnect battery), and drive it for 30 mins to repopulate your combinedft... then try a pull or 2. u have dsmlink or anything?

This is what I was getting at. Bro just take your time you will figure it out. How does the exhaust smell while idling, does it seem to be real rich. I wonder if your spark plugs could be fould out from running rich for so long. Now that your back to the way things should be you don't have a strong enough spark to ignite the af mixture.
 
I don't have a reader. Yeah I've reset the ecu multiple times just today. All vac lines seem to be in order.. maf is on nice and snug.. I'm gonna get a video of what its doing tomorrow and post it on here.

This is what I was getting at. Bro just take your time you will figure it out. How does the exhaust smell while idling, does it seem to be real rich. I wonder if your spark plugs could be fould out from running rich for so long. Now that your back to the way things should be you don't have a strong enough spark to ignite the af mixture.

yeah man they were pretty black. I replaced them, gapped correctly. And yes it made my garage smell like shit.. I still have the overly rich smell stuck in my nose.
 
Ok, im now wondering if it could have over run your fuel pressure regulator. Which would really be dumping fuel, like when people run walbro 255 with stock regulator. It works ok for awhile but then gets over run, and just dumps fuel. Till they get smart and get a Afpr, anyway just another thought bro.
 
Well you would need a gauge to verify base fuel pressure. They make fp testers if you can get ahold of one. I personally have link and a fp gauge so makes things much easier. I'm not really into throwing parts at cars being a auto/desiel tech for the last almost 15 years. The fpr is very easy to swap out and if you can find a parts car with a fpr. It would take a 10mm socket and about two minutes to swap. Just a thought to try. Other than that do the basics, check all fuses, vacuum lines, sensors and plugs and also check timing is lined up. No problem trying to help bro, I'm just chilling with the wife, she's busy shopping for baby supplies and I'm well on tuners LOL.
 
Sorry to come back on this old thread. But, any guys that had the same problem might want to check their tps. Mine was just barely hanging on. The two mounting points had cracked and detatched. If you can't afford a new one right away, justgrab a few zip ties and x up around the throttle body. It'll do the trick temporarily.
 
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