1G 93 Laser Replacement Speakers

[Badge023]

Has anyone found a set (6) of replacement speakers that are somewhat of a direct fit? Looking to replace all in my 93 Laser but would rather know if someone has already done it so I don't have to go through RMA hell with Crutchfied or the likes thereof. One thread I read mentioned something about the correct height and banging out the sheet metal behind the speaker to get the rears to fit... so, yeah, that's not what I want to do.

Any thoughts or experiences?

 

[steve]

One issue is that there were many different audio setups in 1G's so you need to figure out what you have first.
Second is what are you trying to wind up with, something for the ride or something to compete with?

Your profile suggests your skills should be up to either but a little more direction would help us with our advice.

 

[Badge023]

Thanks for answering Steve. The car in your profile picture is the same color scheme I bought back in '92. It just looked classy. I have just the stock radio, 2DIN, tape player, integrated EQ with the AUX port. No amp or Infinity sound. I'm just looking for the ride, not looking to blow the back window out. Unbolt the old and refresh with new, non dried up.

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[Badge023]

So here's what I came up with. The front 4" speakers are 12 ohm, the door speakers are 6"? * ohm and the rears are 6x9 4 ohm. there is no amp and i see that some of the output wires share channels. has anyone found a company the can set the speakers up with resistors or actually produce the correct speakers? I'm looking just for the stock sound and not blowing the back window out. Any thoughts or input will help.

 

[steve]

I could have sworn that the box containing my originals had resurfaced lately. I can remember seeing it but after a hour looking in the basement I had no luck finding them.

What I remember was my dash had 3.5", my doors something like 5.25" and my rears were 6x9". I know the later cars mounted the door speakers a little higher and used a larger side. Half of my door speakers were covered by the door card and I had to open those and make new mounts for both the doors and the rears. The factory 6x9" were low profile and there are old threads about having to massage the wheel arch to clear the magnets of standard depth 6x9s. I avoided that by using a 6.5" and shifting it in the space to clear with a simple plywood bracket. If I were to do it again I'd use the highest sensitivity coaxial 6.5" in my budget for both the doors and rear.

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These were Eclipse Component 2 ways the doors were the same but 5.25" and both needed more power that an indash head unit can supply and way too expensive. I made pods for the door tweeters that replaced the plastic mirror fascia in the front corner of the window. I was never happy with how the doors worked out. Putting the tweeter that far from the woofer caused crossover problems. Maybe I should have gone with some sort of bass driver in the door and used the dash for the fronts. In any case using two sets vs three sets will avoid any impedance or crossover issues and the higher the sensitivity the louder it will get from an indash head unit since most are limited by the typical auto battery voltages. (they usually don't have switching converters to higher voltages like a high power car amp does)

I'd stick to something with polypropylene cones and rubber not foam surrounds since they will be exposed to sunlight and moisture.

My usage has changed a lot since I did this and now I value a system with some form of GPS or car play more than audio quality since I'm always looking for routing information or some place I've never been before and I can't see the phone screen.

 

[Badge023]

Thanks for the advice Steve. This give me some ideas.