93 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Auto

[J_HEATH]

M8x1.25 on the oil return bolts.

-Michael

Thanks Runt!

Looking good! No timing covers? Is it just going to be a track car?

Yes track only car. Once I finish up in the engine bay I'll be gutting all of the interior out of the car. I sold it all to a buddy for $100.

I'm just tired of fighting with it, pulling it out, putting it back in, over and over.

So once I get the cage put in (chromoly 8 point) I'll get the interior sprayed and tent all the windows, and by widows I mean lexan except for the front windshield which will still be glass.

frontline fab diff cover came in today. Just waiting on the transfercase brace and driveshaft loop.

 

[J_HEATH]

Don't mind the rats nest of wiring, that is going to be the last thing I do in the engine bay. Finally got my -16 AN radiator hoses done. Now I know why not many people do this, a total PITA and expensive! The weld on fittings were cheap (steel one was ARP $12, the other 3 were summit brand like $15 a piece, the hose and fittings were $250 all Earls)

Also, if you notice, I clocked the center cartridge upside down (DOAH!) So I'll be doing that again when I get another off day so I can finish the oil & coolant feed/return lines.

Also my order from JNZ tuning came in today. $500 worth of OEM hardware, time to get started on the rear subframe!

Also pictured is the longest coupler I've ever seen. Its a 12" long 45 degree 3" coupler I got from ATP turbo. With this coupler I will be able to have just one pipe on the cold side (a long 45 degree 3" pipe, and I'll have a long legged 90 2&1/2" pipe on the hot side.

Still waiting on Frontline Fab and JM Fab for parts.

 

[J_HEATH]

JM Fab oil catch can came in.

I've got the interior gutted out minus the dash, ready for a cage.

Also have the doors completely gutted except for the crash beams. Once I get some time off work I'll get back at it.

 

[VisionPaintball]

Great build. Keep it going!

 

[J_HEATH]

Great build. Keep it going!

Thanks man.

Finally got a hold of the local Chasis shop. In a month or so (that's when they'll be able to do it due to being backed up) I'll be taking the Talon to get a 8 point chromoly cage and the kirkey race seat installed and certified. I'll be glad to get that done so I can move onto the interior and get all of it finished.

 

[J_HEATH]

A little background on me, I was in the Army 8 years from 1999-2007 I'm medically retired. I went to Iraq in 2003, Afghanistan in 2004 & 2007. In Iraq I was injured I got shrapnel in my back from an RPG when a convoy got ambushed. They removed what they could but some of the pieces were too close to my spine so they were left alone. Ever since then I've had issues with my back, especially whenever I work on a car, cold weather, or whenever I'm hunched over for a long period of time.

Well my back has been giving me serious issues the last few months, and now my left leg has started to tingle and go numb. This is due to the sciatic nerve being pinched or getting irritated causing major pain throughout my leg. Well I finally went to the Orthopedic about this, (I have a high tolerance for pain and the ole Army saying of suck it up and drive on is still embedded in me) found out that the discs on my lower spin are worn down compared to the others as well as one is bulging or herniated causing the irritation to the nerve. So I'm on all sorts of meds now and physical therapy.

The good news is now that I have meds to help with the pain and irritation I can work on the Talon more than a few hours without feeling like I got Banzai dropped by Yokozuna.

So I got motivated and and got a few things done on the Talon Friday and plan on getting more done tonight. I'm trying to get everything done in the engine bay and rear subframe before I take the car to the chasis shop at the end of May to get the cage installed.

Installed the JM Fab catch can, and got the IC piping done on the cold side, as well as got the ram air intake all mocked up for the turbo, just have to get a 6" long straight piece of pipe welded onto the 90 degree elbow.

I got the drivers side door all gutted and got the lexan window cut out and installed.

I finished up the ratchet shifter as far as how I want it setup. I installed the cover it came with to make it look a little sleeker than just a bare shifter. I'm still working on removing spotwelds and some misc pieces of metal from the interior. Like the rear speaker braces that attach to the shocktowers, the hoops that the rear seats attach to and some other misc things that aren't needed.

After the cage gets installed I'll be getting the cage and interior painted.

I also went a head and replaced the starter, ISC, and TPS since they were the only things left in the engine bay that aren't new.

Ordered -6 hose and fittings to finish the catch can and -4 hose and fittings for the BOV and wastegate.

I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do as far as controlling boost pressure.

I currently have the EBCS (electronic boost control solenoid) and use Link V3 to control it. But I've seen where people have issues with them taking longer for them to build full boost compared to a MBC. But a MBC people have the issue of boost pressure spiking and falling off.

Then I've also seen where people run both to counter the cons for both. Can anyone running 40+psi give me some insight on what they are doing to control boost? I would greatly appreciate the information and help.

Also, I was going to stick with the KYB AGX shocks and just run some Ground Control coilovers with custom spring rates but have decided to go ahead and get a full coilover setup and swap the springs for some custom rated Eibach springs. This will give me more wheel & tire clearance.

Tonight, I'd like to finish the passenger door as well as get the front of the car back on the ground so I can roll it forward some in the garage and snatch out the rear subframe.

 

[-red97rum-]

Wow, amazing build thread man! It's inspiring to see how much work you're putting in, especially with the pain and discomfort of your injuries. Thanks for serving and I really look forward to seeing the car's progress in the future.

How much of a pain was it to gut the interior and remove the sound deadening material? Did you use the dry ice method? I'm seriously considering doing this to my car to prep for a cage. Following your build is really motivating me to put together my own build journal.

 

[J_HEATH]

Wow, amazing build thread man! It's inspiring to see how much work you're putting in, especially with the pain and discomfort of your injuries. Thanks for serving and I really look forward to seeing the car's progress in the future.

How much of a pain was it to gut the interior and remove the sound deadening material? Did you use the dry ice method? I'm seriously considering doing this to my car to prep for a cage. Following your build is really motivating me to put together my own build journal.

Thanks for the props

As far as removing the interior, it depends on how many times you've done it. I like to think I've become a pro at it . Since originally I was going to keep all the interior I had to put it back in every time I took it out to do something. Plus before this car I had a 92 4/6 manual trans talon I was working on, but it was just too far gone to save. The PITA part is it's almost guaranteed that some of the pop-ins and other plastic clips will break. I have a container full of them, whenever I went to a junkyard and came across a 1G I would go through the interior and take any I could fine in good shape.

I did use the dry ice method to remove all of the sound deadening material. The best thing to do is break the dry ice up and crumble/sprinkle it all over the sound deadening material, let it sit, then wack it with a rubber mallet. It will crack and bust up. Then just use a scraper or flat head screw driver to get off the pieces that didn't separate from the chasis.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask and I'll do what I can to help.

 

[Jakes 93GSX]

Man, Nice build bro. I got a buddy in New Orleans got a set up similar to yours. Keep up the good work man.

 

[J_HEATH]

Man, Nice build bro. I got a buddy in New Orleans got a set up similar to yours. Keep up the good work man.

thanks

 

[Raymond1927]

I've been following your build thread since you started it. I don't post on it but I like to come in and see all the new parts and ideas you have on yours. It actually inspirited me to make my own build thread. Now that you say your injuired and suffer from back and leg pain. I feel like a b.i.t.c.h when I complain about how hot it is.

 

[J_HEATH]

I've been following your build thread since you started it. I don't post on it but I like to come in and see all the new parts and ideas you have on yours. It actually inspirited me to make my own build thread. Now that you say your injuired and suffer from back and leg pain. I feel like a b.i.t.c.h when I complain about how hot it is.

Thanks,

I enjoy looking at others build threads too. It motivates me just as much to get something done on mine as well as gives me ideas and a good look at parts out there for our cars and how they perform.

As far as the back and leg issue goes, it hasn't gotten any better. I've had to go to the ER 3 times now for pain. I finally got a MRI done and had to get a epidural, if the epidural doesn't knock out the pressure off the nerve then I'll be getting another epidural. If that doesn't stop it then the next thing is back surgery.

Its looking like I'm done with any work on my car that involves heavy lifting or stress on my back. I'm going to try and do what I can and let a buddy of mine that works at a local shop finish the car for me. Its the same shop that I plan on getting the car tuned at so it works out.

Highly doubtful I will have it finished in time for the 2013 DSM/EVO shootout like I was wanting to. I guess I'll just have to shoot for the next IFO race in Montgomery which I think is in November. That will give me time to get the car dialed in and get some seat time.

Either way, I will not be parting the car or selling it that I can promise, I have dumped too much money and time into it to sell it.

Even when the block gives out (which I'm sure at some point it will) I already plan on replacing it with a half filled high compression block with aluminum rods and ARP L19 hardware.

Until that time comes I'll beat the hell out of this block until it gives out on me.

If anyone has any questions about my build feel free to ask, I have no secrets to hide and I don't mind helping a fellow enthusiast out if I can.

 

[killercolt]

Great parts and great work. Your car is looking so sexy.

 

[J_HEATH]

Great parts and great work. Your car is looking so sexy.

Thanks

I've been sitting on my butt for the past 7 days, I ended up having to get an epidural for my back. It will take 7 days for it to do all its going to do, if it doesn't knockout all of the pain then I go back for another. If that doesn't work then I'll be having surgery.

Since I haven't bought any car parts in a couple weeks I finally couldn't take it and broke down. I found out that someone on this forum makes quick connect/disconnect front bumper removal brackets for DSM's. The pricing is really decent so I bought a set. I had my front bumper repainted and will be getting it picked up or dropped off here soon. I've got a new Eagle emblem from JNZ to go on. I'm sure I'll hate the rest of the car now with the nice fresh looking bumper. Next on the paint list is the rear bumper after holes are cut for the Buschur Racing parachute mount and the JM Fab diffuser's.

After the rear bumper I'll probably get the front fenders painted. Oh! I've also decided to get a fiberglass hatch over the CF one. I'm trying to cut costs on a few things to save for larger parts needed still (driveshaft, axles, brakes). So a fiberglass hatch and FAL quarter windows and rear hatch window are coming up on the to-do list. The weight difference between the CF and fiberglass hatch are minimal compared to the cost difference.

Also, since I sold the FD wheels with Hoosiers I'm shopping for replacement wheels. I was going to get some WELDS but for $450 a piece I couldn't justify it right now. I want to get the car done before the end of the year, but again I'm not in such a hurry to cheap out completely on it. After doing some research I found a nice set of wheels that are light weight, cost effective, and not a dime a dozen so to say. Buddy Club P1 Racing SF wheels 15x7+40 of course with some Hoosier Quick Time Pro's 26x9.5x15.

One more thing, and please anyone let me know if you know of anyone having the same problem.

I am by no means bashing or saying anything negative about them, but I'm having a problem with Frontline Fabrications.

I ordered a driveshaft loop over 6 months ago now. I have messaged Andrew on facebook and I even have his cell number and text him about it once every 2 weeks. I keep getting the run around with excuses about machines breaking, busy because he works alone, problems with the laser etching company, so on and so on. He even told me that they aren't going to sell them anymore because of all the issues. But still I've been waiting for over 6 months for a bent piece of steel.

Also, on top of that I've been waiting over 4-5 months for the transfer case brace I ordered. Same answers, waiting on this, I was told everything was done but the tailshaft brace, something else he had to do.

But yet I see posts on facebook of him making valve covers, diff covers, catch cans, and other stuff for people. Kinda ticks me off that here I am a paid customer who has been waiting for half a year now on something, wouldn't that be a priority? I guess since the driveshaft loop isn't a big money part is not a priority. I've spent $1000 with this company, I should get some sort of customer appreciation I would think.

I will say that after talking to Andrew and telling him I needed to Diff cover so I could start on my rear subframe he did get that to me in 3 months.

 

[HNDAETR]

I had the same problem with a drive shaft loop from frontline. I sent many emails got excuses and months went by he said it shipped out. I waited some more asked for tracking number he never got back to me. I never got it and just gave up.

 

[kp116]

If I were you I would just rock stock axles. Jesse abele I think was just on stock ones with a diff cover. I'm on stock ones and my 3100lb car has been 1.33 60'. You might break one every so often but imo its still better than paying a arm and a leg for something that will eventually still break.

 

[J_HEATH]

I had the same problem with a drive shaft loop from frontline. I sent many emails got excuses and months went by he said it shipped out. I waited some more asked for tracking number he never got back to me. I never got it and just gave up.

I wouldn't give up on something I paid for. Do you have his number? I would Call, Text, or message him on facebook. Either ask for a refund or see what happened to your order.

 

[J_HEATH]

If I were you I would just rock stock axles. Jesse abele I think was just on stock ones with a diff cover. I'm on stock ones and my 3100lb car has been 1.33 60'. You might break one every so often but imo its still better than paying a arm and a leg for something that will eventually still break.

Thanks for the tip, I think I'm going to try this route and see how it works out. This will definitely save me $1800 that I can put towards other parts needed to finish the car.

On another note, a buddy of mine told me that he used the throttle cable off a 2G cruise control (pedal to cruise box) cable on his 1G as a shortened throttle cable so it wouldn't wrap around the manifold like the stock one does. I bought a new cable from JNZ and will giving it a try. It is shorter than the 1G non cruise cable for sure, I'm trying to get the cable to go from the pedal straight to the throttle body without having to hack the cable up.

Also, hopefully I can get a few other things finished on the car and get the engine harness out and the fuse box harness out to send off to get redone. going to get some wires that aren't used removed and mil spec wire loom and connectors put on it. My harness is mint since the car has such low miles, but it needs to be modified to make things simpler for sure. The trans harness is another story, I'll look at it more once its out of the car and see what I can do to it. I really hate messing with wiring harnesses with the car not being in running condition, it can make it a total nightmare when the car is done if you're trying to track down an issue with one occurs.

 

[11secDSM]

I assume you're removing the TCU and trans side of the engine harness since you have the quarter stick in there, right?

 

[J_HEATH]

TCU was removed a couple years ago, not sure about the trans harness since I know there are diodes that go into the wiring to bypass the TCU. I'll have to take a look at it and see what I'm working with.

 

[J_HEATH]

Frontline Fab transfer case finally came in.

 

[95eclipseSlow]

Trans and transfer case cleaned and repainted

What is the black plastic circle piece on the front of the trans for? It has a connector I just do not know what sensor it is.

 

[Raymond1927]

What is the black plastic circle piece on the front of the trans for? It has a connector I just do not know what sensor it is.

That is a kick down switch.

 

[J_HEATH]

^ That is correct. That covers the kickdown rod.

Here is a diagram for you....
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/blueyedhairband/KICKDOWN1.jpg

 

[bigbird94]

Stock axles FTW!

Fill a gym bag full of spares and take them with when you go to the track.