90 engine in a 92

[92blutalon]

ok guys i bought a 1990 turbo engine and wanting to swap into my 1992 N/T car. I have heard people haveing alot of trouble with the 1990 ECU's. What do i have to swap to aviod the 1990 Electronics? Can I use any of my 1992 N/T Electronics?

Thanks.

 

[quayzar590awd]

There are numerous threads relating to your topic. Search the site and look @ the FAQ.

 

[92blutalon]

Anyone else wanna give me a good answer other then look at the form? I did and found nothing with my questions.

Thanks.

 

[steve]

There are numerous threads relating to your topic. Search the site and look @ the FAQ.

He has several of them (threads) but doesn't like the answers we keep giving him. So he goes away for a few weeks and then pops up to ask again.

 

[92blutalon]

Well when you guys said TB and ect... what is all the ect?? thats all i want to know, and i have one thread on this and you were being a dick anyways.

 

[My1GLaser]

I'm pretty sure I saw Steve respond in the other thread to use the motor as a long block and swap over all the 92 electronics to it. Etc means, coils, ISC, TPS, the fuel rail has a different angle near the TB to clear a 90 TPS, so pretty much the entire TB, etc.

There are a few other quirks here and there like a noise filter for the tach signal on a 90 that is built into the coil on a 92. Its a PITA to list all the little nuances and easier to tell you to switch over all the electronics from the 92. Or you could search Vfaq and this forum where I learned about all this stuff myself.

Also, I don't believe a NT ECU has a provision for knock sensor...maybe the car just doesn't have a wire in the harness and there is an unused pin at the ECU. I am really not 100% sure, but I'd be more concerned with that than swapping the TB, etc. You'll probably need a turbo ECU. If you get the 92 electronics, then get a 92 ECU to match your wiring harness or you will have to switch the wire at pin 6&14 at the ECU if you get a 90 ECU. I am pretty sure you will have to run your own knock sensor wire from the ECU to the sensor though.

 

[steve]

I'm pretty sure I saw Steve respond in the other thread to use the motor as a long block and swap over all the 92 electronics to it.

You did and links to two NT to turbo conversions.

I guess I'm a dick because I didn't write it all down for him. It doesn't look like he bothered to avail himself of the information in any case or the quality of this questions would have improved.

Or you could search Vfaq and this forum where I learned about all this stuff myself.

Research, that's how most of us learned all this stuff. It's the price we pay to avoid handing cash over to somebody to do it for us.

Also, I don't believe a NT ECU has a provision for knock sensor...maybe the car just doesn't have a wire in the harness and there is an unused pin at the ECU. I am really not 100% sure, but I'd be more concerned with that than swapping the TB, etc. You'll probably need a turbo ECU. If you get the 92 electronics, then get a 92 ECU to match your wiring harness or you will have to switch the wire at pin 6&14 at the ECU if you get a 90 ECU. I am pretty sure you will have to run your own knock sensor wire from the ECU to the sensor though.

I don't know specifics on if the wire is in the harness for the knock sensor. The NT ECU doesn't have the board that processes the signal so it's one of the reasons you need a turbo ECU and may need to run the wire. It, like the O2 sensor lead is a shielded wire. The knock sensor is a microphone and noise degrades the quality of the signal.

The MAF reset signal is missing from the harness and connector so you have to run it and change the MAF and connector. Also missing is the boost gauge in the cluster but that's not a huge loss. An real boost gauge is the first mod people should make to a turbo car anyway.

The NT uses high impedance injectors without the injector resistor pack. To run a the low impedance injectors on a turbo engine, they need to be rewired and the resistor pack mounted to the firewall. It uses the firewall as a heatsink. This is the most involved part of the electrical conversion.