7 Bolt Bearing Cap Girdle not aligned.

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

SO i was cleaning one of my blocks getting ready to take it into the shop to get checked today. I noticed the Cap Girdle is not flush with each bearing. Its a 98 7 bolt block.
If you are looking at the bottom of the block on an engine stand, the OUTSIDE edge of the first bearing is flush, but all the rest are slightly offest including the one on the back of the block.

I checked my other 98 block and it does not seem to be this way. Is this something i should be worried about? I have a set of ARP main studs and plan on getting it line honed/bored if needed. I tried tapping it slightly one way or the other and no matter where it sits its not flush somewhere.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Do you happen to have the wrong girdle for that block? Align honing will take care of that if it isn't too far off, but I would show my machinist and ask his/her opinion from their perspective.
Can you post a picture or two for us to examine?

 

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

It should be the same girdle for the block. Its not the align boring that is not lining up. It is more so the EDGE of the girdle is not lining up with the blocks edge of the bearing slots. I am going to run out and take some pictures now. I have an entire another block so if this is an issue I want to take the other block instead. BRB photos.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Yep, I would do the same thing. Take the best known block and figure out the other one in the mean time!
I will be looking for pictures to see what it is that looks funny. I have at least one 7 bolt block and girdle laying around that I could compare it with.

 

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

I have been documenting every step of my journey so far and needed to unload 64 gigs of video off my SD card so give me about 30 minutes and ill link some HD video/pics

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

, aren't we ALL in that same situation???? Even my 32 gig thumb drive is full so I need to order another one and off load a bunch of stuff myself from my phone to that drive.

 

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

Hehe you know its bad when you are spending extra money to just record yourself doing shit that has been done for 25 years I didnt scimp out on the camcorder either . Lets say it cost as much as my 100mm crank

 

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

So here is the gap one one side. It is pretty dam close to flush on the other maybe not exactly.

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This is the front side where there is almost no gap.

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Now i dont have the Main studs in or even bolted down and it can move a tiny bit to one side or the other but nothing seems to get them all to line up.


Here is the gap in #3 with the ^^^^^^

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The gap on #2 but this actually with the block flipped over so its gapped the opposite way of everything else.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

How does the parting line feel when you run a finger nail over it? Is it smooth, like it was honed to finish or is there an obvious "edge" that can be felt. It should feel almost seamless at the parting line where the girdle meets the block at the crank bores. I will try to remember to look at the 7 bolt I have on the shop floor and compare it to yours when I get home in a bit.

 

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

the inside of the bore, as in the round part where the bearing will sit feel very smooth. The only real thing my finger hangs up on is where the little cut outs and edges are. The actual surface where a line hone would machine is very smooth/seamless. Its literally the width of the girdle cap that is not lining up. I was told this block/girdle were machined for this exact crank, and i see some machine work on the other side of the girdle to allow clearing for the rod bolts.

I am just not sure if the fact that the width of the girdle is not exactly flush with the block matters.

Is this in fact just a sign that the block itself was machined to clearance for the stroker?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well as I said, I turned this block over and got you some pictures. I'm sorry this still has the crank in and I don't want to take the girdle off (too much stuff goin on or I would).
See what you think. I think it is ok but I don't build 7 bolts normally so I am not as used to the way they look/feel when things DON'T exacly match up. My girdle doesn't mate up in front or back exactly either and its still together.
Hope this helps!
Marty

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[MidLifeCriTSIs]

Thats a huge relief brother thank you so much for checking on that for me ill be sure to mention to the machinist to take extra care of the alignment. With so much play in this thing I wish it was doweled.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

That is a little strange. I did build a nice 7 bolt last year but it had main studs. Once tightened down, it worked out great. Some other circumstances took that motor out of use but the bottom end is still fine and in good shape.
Thats what this group is about, help. Never a problem. Glad to do it.
Marty

 

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

Should I install the main studs myself before I drop the block off? What about removing the head studs first? I am just taking it in for inspection / measurement I was thinking I could leave the stock bolts in it for measurements sake?

Id hate to put these studs in to just have to take them out and put them in my virgin block if the block I am taking in is no good.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If I remember right, during the build, it occurred to me that the bolts or studs didn't matter because the girdle is all one piece so it had to remain with the block it came with to remain true in the crank bore. I built it and it started out with stock bolts. I didn't align hone it and it ran an 11.6 coasting thru past the 1000' mark with a different injury. The whole rotating assembly (less 1 piston that is hurt) is just fine.
Here was the run.

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Relax, I think you are fine.
Marty

 

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

If I could relax I would! Has taken a lot of energy and money to collect all these parts hehe so just trying to be sure im not missing something obvious! It was 15 years ago and I was 18 last time I owned one of these so just trying to make up for all my mistakes back then and do this thing right

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I understand. Check off each thing you are worried about and then move to the next until you are done. With proper maintenance, these are reliable cars. Start out fresh and you will be happy for a long time.

 

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

Just noticed your in Kansas also ! I grew up in Independence from 1990-1995 Heh!! I took the block into the shop today and I think I surprised the guy with my questions/condition of the parts I gave him.

He started off with the "Is it even clean?" I replied with a small giggle. I think I cleaned meticulously, every part of what I gave him at least 10 times.

I questioned every part of the process and was sure that he had a general understanding of the quirks of a 4g63. Ensured they had a torque plate. After everything was said and done I was sure to let him know that I felt fully confident from our conversation that I was making the right choice in machinist, and that was I was glad to have found him to work on MY engine!

Not sure if we left with a mutual respect or with him frustrated at my level of OCD questioning.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It is always a good thing to talk it ALL over with your machinist.
I saw you were out in Salina, I have worked at their Post Office for a week of training personal there.
I have been here all my life, live outside the city limits, south of town.

 

[MidLifeCriTSIs]

Also, i just read the thread on cleaning the crank journals.... Let me ask you here instead of hijacking that one.

My crank had the balls removed and set screws already installed (im assuming this means it was cleaned) do you think i should have the shop remove the screws? Or would a "second" brake clean spray out be enough?