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6 point rear strut brace

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Sandman817

Sandman817

10+ Year Contributor
384
2
Mar 2, 2010
Lower Fairfield, Connecticut
I've been looking at some handling components on ebay and i came across this 6 point rear strut brace. I was just wondering where the other 4 points bolt up to, and if it requires any drilling for the install. I know that 2 points bolt up to the top of the rear strut towers but i am not sure where the rest go. Here is a picture of the one ive been looking at.
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Well, I haven't used that produuct but I agre its beeter to spend your money else where. If your looking for suspension handling components, I would look into adjustable rear end arms similar to prothane inserts, or adjustable control arms. Larger rear sway bar would be a better buy as well. IMO
 
Few members have explored and pushed the limits of chassis and suspension modification on our cars as much as Greengoblin. Kevin here is a real sick puppy when it comes to that aspect. If you get a chance lookup his 2G AWD build on here or mitsu media. His build is the sickest thing there is. I recognize him as an expert and if he says it's junk... Good enough for me.
 
That bar will flex at all of its joints and give no added strength to the chassis. Besides the fact that those bars are so thin walled and i can probably bend one with my bare hands, this is why they are junk.
 
Gus@RRE said:
That bar will flex at all of its joints and give no added strength to the chassis. Besides the fact that those bars are so thin walled and i can probably bend one with my bare hands, this is why they are junk.
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Damm cause I was just thinking about getting it..Not now for sure..So thanks
 
Bud92gsx said:
Damm cause I was just thinking about getting it..Not now for sure..So thanks
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Why?

What problems do you currently have that something like this - assuming that it wasn't junk - would solve?

Why do people insist on approaching modification completely bass-ackwards? Why do people look at funky after-market parts and ask if it's any good instead of saying what their problem is and asking what the correct fix would be?
 
Think about what you are looking at - a trunk brace. What part of the car behind the rear wheels can possibly flex enough to negatively affect the car ?

The key is "behind the rear wheels".

Yes an open-backed hatchback (imagine a VW Golf) is prone to rear body flex, but both 1Gs and 2Gs have a very high trunk back which all but eliminates the 'open box' issues.

Or - how many roll cages do you see that extend well past the wheel locations ? There's a reason for that.

Or - your 99 GST most likely has a sunroof, if so you're already pi$$ing into the wind, and a floppy trunk is the least of your worries.

Or - you have a 99 GST, why do you care what the rear is doing ?

Given FWD, there's barely enough justification for running a rear strut bar on anything other than a slick-shod track car. It would be a very different matter if we were discussing the front of a 2G, which does flap around like a dying fish regardless of FWD or AWD - we could get into a really fascinating discussion on that subject - well, except GreenGoblin's already answered just about every question we could dream up (but we can still try).
 
jtmcinder said:
Why?

What problems do you currently have that something like this - assuming that it wasn't junk - would solve?

Why do people insist on approaching modification completely bass-ackwards? Why do people look at funky after-market parts and ask if it's any good instead of saying what their problem is and asking what the correct fix would be?
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Because RACE CAR!:tease:
 
jtmcinder said:
Why?

What problems do you currently have that something like this - assuming that it wasn't junk - would solve?

Why do people insist on approaching modification completely bass-ackwards? Why do people look at funky after-market parts and ask if it's any good instead of saying what their problem is and asking what the correct fix would be?
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I think I asked paul once if he wanted to do something like this for the upper rear of the trunk area..Not sure whatever hapened with that..

Ya know I was cruising ebay and did aquick search..I did no think I was gonna get crap about it

Were all looking to stiffen stuff up right.
 
Bud92gsx said:
Ya know I was cruising ebay and did aquick search..I did no think I was gonna get crap about it

Were all looking to stiffen stuff up right.
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Why did you quote my post if you weren't going to read it?

No, we're not all looking to stiffen stuff up. Again, you are confusing means and ends. Most of us are looking to reduce the time that it takes to get from X to Y. Adding crap to the car that won't solve a current problem will not do that; it will only lighten your wallet and might even slow the car down. Not everything needs to be stiff.

And, yeah, I know. "That's what she said."
 
Bammm..I almost didnt catch that...NICE:thumb:

I'm cutting alot out of the rear too..But i need more weight back there over the rear axels..Which is why I was thinking battery relocation right over rear diff area with cutoff switch..But im not sure yet..

I need mounts for a rear bar..I accidently was sent two fronts instead of front and rear..
 
Last try.

What makes you think that you need to ADD weight to the rear of your car? What problem do you currently have that will be fixed by making your car heavier in the rear?

I'm not talking about relocating weight from the front to the rear. There are lots of things that that will help, so I'm not questioning that. I'm asking why you think doing the equivalent of the good-old-boy, cinder-blocks-in-the-back-of-my-pickup is going to solve some problem with a DSM.
 
Bud92gsx said:
Bammm..I almost didnt catch that...NICE:thumb:

I'm cutting alot out of the rear too..But i need more weight back there over the rear axels..Which is why I was thinking battery relocation right over rear diff area with cutoff switch..But im not sure yet..

I need mounts for a rear bar..I accidently was sent two fronts instead of front and rear..
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Skip the 14 extra lbs of battery box, cables and cutoff switch and use a lithium battery on the front subframe instead. Mount it in a lightweight aluminum holder and shorten all the cables to minimum lengths.
 
^ I completely agree with this sentiment. I switched to a mini ride-on lawnmower battery and never had a problem starting the car and dumped something like 15# from up high in the front. I did end up running a wire to the rear, but it was only for the water-injection pump so it was nothing like the wire you'd have to put in for battery relocation.
 
lowell said:
Skip the 14 extra lbs of battery box, cables and cutoff switch and use a lithium battery on the front subframe instead. Mount it in a lightweight aluminum holder and shorten all the cables to minimum lengths.
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jtmcinder said:
^ I completely agree with this sentiment. I switched to a mini ride-on lawnmower battery and never had a problem starting the car and dumped something like 15# from up high in the front. I did end up running a wire to the rear, but it was only for the water-injection pump so it was nothing like the wire you'd have to put in for battery relocation.
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^This..I love that you guys are very smart..

The lithium battery is a great idea tho I like it..
 
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