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6 bolt vs. 7 bolt [merged] 6bolt 7bolt 6-bolt 7-bolt six bolt seven bolt

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asdfzxc

Probationary Member
9
1
Jul 7, 2002
All 6 bolt vs. 7 bolt threads are merged here.
How do I tell if I have a 6 bolt or a 7 bolt?
Will x part from a 6 bolt fit a 7 bolt?
Will x part from a 7 bolt fit a 6 bolt?
Which one is better?
How do I swap my x bolt for an x bolt?


What is the difference between 6-bolt and 7-bolt engines (aside from the obvious - 6 vs. 7 bolts connecting the flywheel :p )

Is there an advantage over either of the two engines?

Thanks,

-Mike
 
I read an article by magnusmotorsports that you should check out. It was a long time ago, so I don't have a link to it, but here's the just of it. They cut apart a 7 bolt block to see if they could determine the cause of crankwalk. Although they came up with nothing conclusive, the end result was that they thought it was due to the oil squirters on the bottom of the pistons. Now, they won't build a 7 bolt without sealing them off as a precaution. Something you make want to look into for some extra insurance.
 
Sealing the oil squirters off? I highly doubt that would have anything to do with it, that would only help the engine last longer. I've been reading that primarily its the clamp force from the flywheel on to the crank is so great that it just turns the crank at an angle and it "walks"
 
I am just letting you know what their research said, not necessarily my personal opinion. Supposedly the squiters get clogged and they stay stuck open all of the time. I have heard of other people sealing them off too. If anyone else has heard this also, please help me clarify.

But for the record, I do agree with most of the others who have posted on this thread. Crankwalk is over-rated, if you're on a limited budget, go with the 7 bolt. Good luck with your build.
 
I have about 2 grand to play with but I've still got to get the cams, two new valves, two new valve guides for the head and machien time on those...
 
Find a running 7 bolt for <1k, get your head refreshened (milled,new guides, stem seals, etc.) with OEM valves and maybe a springs/retainers for your new cams. That should put your at 2k with a semi-built head and get you to your goals without the hassle of a 6 bolt swap.

Or you can get a stock 6 bolt setup and do the same thing. I just did the 6 bolt swap and it's actually a lot easier than most perceive.
 
Here comes another question don´t know if someone have tried this before or if i am just stupid thinking it can be done

I can get a 6 bolt 1g eclipse (full working car)can i put my 7 bolt from my 2g(after taking it away to do the 6 bolt swap) into the 1g car so y have a 1g 7 bolt for daily driving and the 2g 6 bolt to make my project?

I wanna know because i can get the 1g for about 1500dls normal conditions fully working and is always better to have a daily drivig car and the mighty baby in the garage
 
Do you have your stock 2g head? There's no question, if you ask me! Rebuild your stock 6 bolt with ACL or clevite bearings (since they're cheap anyway), get some new rings and get the block up and running :thumb: Then get your 2g head bored out to 12mm and drop it in.
 
Black, yes I still have my 2g head. But I'm also wanting to use my 1g head since it is built.. Jackson Auto Machine +1mm Nitride valves, Crower valve springs locks retainers, revised lifters, Jackson Auto bronze valve guides, Jackson Auto valve seals, port work, Just need to take out my rockers and get some cams...
 
After reading post 21 about the built 1g head I say slap that sucker on a mostly stock, well machined 2g block and call it done.
 
I'm kind of leaning more towards the 7 bolt since after all I just got my ACT flywheel in not even two weeks ago ROFL Ya I'm thinking about some Eagle rods, 2g pistons, boreing the cyl. and doing a basic rebuild with ARP hardware
 
Also I have seen a machine shop advertise a "7-bolt as strong as a 6". They say the problem that makes the later block more prone to CW is the size of the thrust washer and that it's possible to machine the later block to accept a larger one. Can anyone else weigh in on this?
 
I heard from the grape vine from a local dsm community that there is finally a cure to the crank walk problem. Something about a sensor and the thrust bearings?
 
well after reading all of that long convo...i guess do whatever you think is best for your budgett... i have a completely built 7 bolt and i have never a problem with crank walk.. i also have 6 bolts that have gone bad as well. so its a horse a piece..either way you go just make sure you dont take short cuts and reuse gaskets or bearings just get the stuff new its all cheap and just get you torqe specs and put it all back together and hopefully it will all be good for you.. but it is a dsm so it will break again eventually....
 
Do you have your stock 2g head? There's no question, if you ask me! Rebuild your stock 6 bolt with ACL or clevite bearings (since they're cheap anyway), get some new rings and get the block up and running :thumb: Then get your 2g head bored out to 12mm and drop it in.

Do this and sell of and part out all the extras you have left over. Should come in under 2k and have a pretty good setup.
 
I'm def. not going to try my hand at putting the motor back together myself. Theres no way that I could trust myself with those kind of tollerances.

I'm really honestly not sure what I want to do. I've got a 6 bolt sitting in my garage, and I've got a 7 bolt sitting in the car.... Decisions decisions LOL
 
if you already have a 6bolt block and crank outside of the car why don't you just have 2g pistons machined onto your 1g rods? all the machining you would do for the 7bolt would be the same for the 6bolt correct?
 
cause i've been hearing that the cost of buying a set of 2g pistons and then spending the money to have the 2g pistons machined on to the 1g rods would be almost as much as getting a set of wiseco's or of the sort
 
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